SingleWhiteLine

Thanks for all the great information. I probably don't want to push it my first season back after major surgery. I'll probably just but a 10 day locals pass and see how it goes on my softies before a crank over the Coiler. I guess I need to concentrate on walking first and I'll revisit this thread closer to the winter. It's good to know there is a community out there with good help and tips to get me back carving again. Thanks, SWL

Sunsurfer, Good info there. I'm not an intec user. I have 2 sets of td2's. The rear entry front boot is a good idea. I'm not familiar with isolation plates and what their intended function is. I'll have a wee sniff around the net to see what I can find out. Cheers, SWL

Kieran, Good point. I'm in UPZ's right now which are difficult to get into anyway. I had an old pair of deeluxes but they didn't fit as well as ups but you are right, they might be easier to get into. SWL P.s. I'm an implant from Scotland to the US. Been here 15 years.

Bryan, Thanks, I appreciate it. It's my front ankle that is fused. Prior to me recent issues I only had about 3 degrees toe up movement. I have a large angle heel lift on my forward foot I don't remember exactly how much but its the biggest one they make for the td2 bindings. I've adapted my style to make it work. I'm pretty sure if I can get my boot on I'll be able to put the board into a fun carve. It's the getting the boot on I'm worried about now that I can't point my toes. As soon as I am allowed to weight bear in 4 weeks I'll be trying to get my boot on. SWL

I have chronic arthiritis from a climbing accident about 25 years ago however it has not been limiting until recently. During the winter season of 12/13 towards the end of the season I was on a hard toe side carve that disengaged and then re-engaged again several times very quickly. It hyper extended my ankle in dorsi flexion (toe up) which didn't have much range due and had a hard stop that I had from some bone spurs. Anyway I got stretchered off the mountain and have been dealing with the effects ever since and completely missed the 13/14 season due to a series of surgeries. It is to the point now where I had my ankle fused 2 weeks ago. It is the tibia / talus joint that has been fused pretty much keeping my foot at 90 degrees to my shin bone. I was wondering if anybody here knows anybody or has any experience of people that carve with a fused ankle? I'm concerned about getting my boot on because I can't point my toes. Does anybody have any gear tips or gear modification recommendations to help with carving or getting the boot on? I'm looking for some hope. SWL :(

Thanks for the tips. All good ones. I started working on my used board first until I got the technique down, now I feel pretty confident working on my base and side edges on my new board. What about base structure? Is there a way to put structure on your base by hand or is that soemthing people just do when they need a base grind in a shop?

I've recently started tuning my own edges and I have a few questions from any of you more experienced than I. 1) My new coiler was delivered with a 0 base and 90 edge. I've ridden it that way for all of January and February to see if I liked it before making a change. I do like the 0 base but I don't know how to tune for a zero base angle. The most shallow angled base guide I could find is a 0.5 degree. Does anybody have tips on where to find a zero base angle guide? 2) The file I've been using to change edge angles is a very fine almost finish grade file that you might use just before using a diamond stone. It takes a long time to make an edge change or to remove heavy gouges from the edges. Can anybody recommend a courser file to make bigger changes? I'm no metal work guru but I'm assuming just about any file I can get from home depot will work and it doesn't need to be ski/snowboard specific? 3) What base and edge bevels do you all use for general carving? I'm thinking of moving to a 0.5 base (0 if I can find a guide) and a 1 edge and then maybe going up to a 2 edge if I think I need to. cheers for the input. SWL

Levinnyog, I went from Deeluxe track 700's with btms system on that I bought used from a very agressive rider to new UPZ's this year. Here are my general comments: 1) UPZ with standard tongue is stiffer than my 700's with the bts 2) UPZ's have a much more roomy toe box and significantly tighter heel box (I had to boot fit my right heel) 3) The UPZ inner boot looks like a high made boot liner that works together with the shell to make an exceptional fit (for me). The Thermoflex liners I had in the 700's didn't feel like they worked so much in unison with the shell. I think the liner on the 700's was one of the reason I was getting shin bruises. No such bruises with the UPZ's 4) The UPZ are the coldest boots I've worn. I never had cold feet with my 700's (but the last few winters were warmer by far than this one). 5) The UPZ have a removable toe piece on the sole in order to make it a touring boot or downhill boot I think. The bolts that hold this on protrude slightly beyond the rubberised sole and I attribute this to a couple of slips I've had walking on smooth surfaces. I'm also concerned at this two piece system may come loose over time or as the plastic gets old the bolts may pull out of the plastic. 6) The sole length on the UPZ's is smaller for a given size of boot than the Deeluxes. 7) The UPZ have much more options for canting the boot than the deeluxes and it is a better method in my opinion. .... Hmm that's all I can think of right now. I might be up for selling my Deeluxes (was thinking of keeping them for buddies to try out some hardboots). I hope that all helps. SWL

It was my rear one. I have never had cold feet in any snowboard or ski boot ever but these are frost nip cold. I put it down to 2 things. One they fit perfectly perhaps too well causing circulation problems or two I have the thinnest liner in the shell to make a good fit so less insulation. I do release my buckles for the ride up.

I've just bought my first helmet cam from ebay at a cheap price. I'm thinking of mounting it to the topsheet of my carving board but I don't want to destroy the top sheet with the sticky surfboard mount or helmet mount. Does anybody have any experience with the suction cup mounts on a carving board? I'm worried about the board flex causing the suction to "burp". SWL

I had this exact problem on my UPZ's that I boought this year. Only on the right heel for some reason, the left is fine. On day 1 I could only last about an hour or two before the pain around my achilies heel was too much to bear. I tried again on my second day but the same issue. Day 3 on them I went to a local boot fitter. He heated the shell and pressed it out. I went and rode for a couple of runs. It was better but still not up to scratch. Then he went in and machined out some of the plastic on the inside of the boot around the heel. He removed just enough material to relieve the pressure without any heel lift. The best $25 I've spent. The only problem now with my UPZ's is the coldness. They are the coldest boots I've ever worn and this is one of the coldest winters for a long while.

Aye, been an implant in Park City for the last 13 years. From St Andrews originally. Been carving for about 4 on a 178 Coiler FC that I bought on here about 4 years ago and loved it but wanted to try something new and metal. Bruce was awesome to work with, i totally recommend him and he is very reasonably priced when compared to other carving boards. Well done yer sel'

The new coiler 171 AM VSR 11.5M Side Cut titanal core, with custom Saltire on the standard diamond plate top sheet. My first new carving board ever I'm so excited I just don't know where my wife will sleep tonight:)

Do the F2's come with the original cant and lift shims? Can you post some pitures? Thanks, SWL

Currently have a Coiler 178 FC and like all my gear was bought used on here. Now I've goot a solid 4 seasons on the hardboots I buying my first new board. I've got Bruce making me a 171 VSR AM at his suggestion for my riding style.

I'm about to get a new board and want a binding setup on both. I'll keep my old board with the TD2's on it. Do you think the "feel' improvement of the F2's is worth going through the shimming canting/lift hassle or should I just stick with the TD style and go to the TD3's as the setup is quite painless.

I'm currently riding TD2's which are awesome for customizing the lift and cant. All the local riders are on the F2's and I'm thinking of switching because apparently you get better feel with the F2's. Can the F2's be adjusted for lift as well as cant? I've seen canting shims but nothing that looks like it provides heel lift. Cheers SWL

Looking for a used F2 binding (hopefully with canting shims) for my new setup and for a comparison with my current TD2's. Size to fit Mondo 27.5. Sounds like I'd prefer the race ti but would consider the Carve RS. Cheers SWL

Doh! I guess using google without a brain gives expected results. Thanks.

I was wondering if anybody can help me locate the missing piece to my right boot. I think these are Deelux 700's from several years ago. I lost the red calf support while walking with my boots unclipped at the end of last year. Does anybody know where I can get one in the US? The boot size is Mondo 27 ish. Thanks for the help SWL

I'm a newbie at hardbooting and soon to be newbie at tunning the board. I've been boarding for about 20 years and have never really tuned my own boards. On a soft boot setup I never thought it too important to have a finely tuned board so I usually get a wax or two a season and then a full tune at the beginning of each season. I believe having a tuned board is arguably (i've read some of the discussions here) more imortant in hardbooting. I'm looking for recommendations on tools to help me deburr and polish my edge myself on a more regular basis. I want it to be somewhat idiot proof so I don't screw up the bevel. Any tips? Cheers Steve

Thanks I'm all setup now. I got a Coiler 178 Freecarve. It should arrive today.

I'm interested. Will these fit a mondo 27-28 boot? Email me.

To be honest I'm a bit wary of metal boards as I've heard of failures from fatigue cracks that are initiated from the indentation left by the edge of the binding. I also suspect it might be a little stiff as it is a race board and I'm looking for more of a freecarve setup. Thanks for the link though.

I just demoed a carving setup recently and I am stoked to get my own setup. As I am a newbie I am not totally sure exactly what I want, so I am open to sensible suggestions. I think I want a Freecarve type board in the 170-180 length range. I currenty ride a 170 Arbor A frame which I plan to continue to use on powder and crud days and use the carver for those high pressure system groomer days. Feet size is a Mondo 27.5. In my telle and AT boots I use a Mondo 28 shell but I am not sure what shell fits me in Deelux. The demo setup had a 27 Deelux shell that seemed a little small in length. Stats 185lbs 6' tall 27.5 mondo foot Location Park City, Utah I'm looking for a free cave setup that I can grow into over a pure beginner setup. Like I said I am open to suggestions and would prefer to pay for slightly better quality or less used equipment. Thanks for your input and suggestions Steve