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what's the secret to how to get up after falling...


tjones

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Here is my secret:

I wear a very special harness that was custom made for me. It is a very rare mix of Nylon/Unobtainum/Kevlar/Rubber/Chucknorrisum/Stainless Steel. It is designed in a very elaborate way. When/If you fall the Kevlar harness line is quickly snatched up by the hand of Zeus before you hit the snow. His devine intervention also comes with a TiVo recording that shows you exactly what you did wrong, and then a team of Umpalumpas emerge to slap you silly with negative reinforcement. Chuck Norris is on retainer to beat the snot out of anyone that gets too close.

That is THE BEST METHOD!

I have another harness I can sell for $800.00 USD.

I don't fall...ever...

All the above is true.

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tjones, I have a similar knee/foot relationship on my rear foot. I run about 6 degrees higher angle on my front foot, and I very consciously keep my hips aligned with my front foot. I don't mean perfectly rigid, but that's my starting point that I pivot a bit to either side from. If I do turn too far towards the toeside edge, my rear knee hurts.

Plus, use lift and cant as much as you want. There are some pretty extreme heel lifts and various cants in use. It's about what helps you feel and ride better, not what anyone else says is 'right'.

Someone at SES a couple years ago was using about 3/4" of plywood under a binding to account for leg length differences. He was ripping, so who cares?

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I do what Angie does. If your legs are extended, your center of gravity is quite far over, and it is quite difficult to get up without twisting your knees in half.

If you align your entire body (hips, shoulders, etc.) towards the nose of the board (sideways to the slope), it should be easy and painless to bend your knees all the way so your butt is quite close to your board. At this point, your hip should be on the snow, not your butt. Your thigh may even be contacting the snow. From here it's easy to just push off with your uphill hand.

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most of the description for what I'm experiencing is in a post earlier... TD3 bail, donek axxess 172. only been on them one day so i'm not settled on where the angles are yet, experimenting between high 50s and low 40s for now. ordered cant plates to try them out but presently running flat. I'm guessing adjusting my knee bend angle can be accomplished by a cant plate or two. just have to figure out the compromise between boot out and knee/ankle comfort and keep playing... just need to log some time on the mountain with an allen key in hand and some patience :) from what it sounds like, everyone's descriptions of how to get up aren't that unfamiliar to what i used to do on my soft boots aside from the different angle... but i'm aware i'm still fighting my bindings and that seems a greater contributing factor... so once that settles it seems like i'll be fine. :)

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most of the description for what I'm experiencing is in a post earlier... TD3 bail, donek axxess 172. only been on them one day so i'm not settled on where the angles are yet, experimenting between high 50s and low 40s for now. ordered cant plates to try them out but presently running flat. I'm guessing adjusting my knee bend angle can be accomplished by a cant plate or two. just have to figure out the compromise between boot out and knee/ankle comfort and keep playing... just need to log some time on the mountain with an allen key in hand and some patience :) from what it sounds like, everyone's descriptions of how to get up aren't that unfamiliar to what i used to do on my soft boots aside from the different angle... but i'm aware i'm still fighting my bindings and that seems a greater contributing factor... so once that settles it seems like i'll be fine. :)

So, after a few hours of hard boot setups hopefully you'll start charging, just thinking, if you want to run a 40 or lower rear foot you might think about some Palmer lifters, they get your binding off the board 1", combine that with your TD3 and you've got some height, I mention this because the higher off the board your boot the less likely you'll boot out.

Some here ride 65-60 degrees some 55-49 minus degrees, whatever floats your boat, most tend to have a 5-6degree difference between feet for leverage but what someone else does is of no consequence to you, what matters is getting your balance on a carving board.

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I agree entirely, if you can hop right up after you crash, you aren't pushing your limits. If you eat it make it worth it.

And that is where the technique comes in that I mentioned. When you wipe on a steep slope into a slider, you can get going on your toes quite easily, but when you end on your back, you can simply drag your board until your head is down hill. Then roll over a shoulder onto your toes and you can get going without coming to a complete stand still. Unless you fall so badly that you need a break.

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