Step-ins and snow jamming

[CarvingScooby]

SPAM

Vegetable oil sprayed on the boot soles nightly and allowed to dry will negate your problem as long as you don't take warm boots out in cold snow;)

Interesting, we (YVR Carvers) been thinking about it. Questions:

Does this way made it slippery for walking? Do you have to apply every day after use?

Does anyone try with soap?

Thx,

RT

[J0hn]

@queequeg

So you're saying you have a problem with premature ejection? :D

I wrote a long response and then deleted it. I think it boils down to doing whatever you're comfortable with. The method I described has prevented a few ejections over the years and has not failed me so far. I agree that visual verification is best.

[queequeg]

@queequeg

So you're saying you have a problem with premature ejection? :D

I wrote a long response and then deleted it. I think it boils down to doing whatever you're comfortable with. The method I described has prevented a few ejections over the years and has not failed me so far. I agree that visual verification is best.

Hahah - yeah, something like that.

I definitely think the system you described helps and I still do it. It's a good habit to form for whenever you forget to look, but I'm trying to get in the habit of looking every time.

[jp1]

One thing I learned this season was that Bombers Steel Step-In Receivers in addition to being 'Silky Smooth', have less issue staying engaging properly.

At the end of the season I got out the 'Rock Board' that had aluminum receivers on it and had a constant problem with back heel not locking in.

I'm sure the snow conditions also attributed to the problem, but it was getting scary. The engaged pins are definitely easier to see on the Steel Receivers.

Come on Fin, whip up another batch of Bomber Steel Receivers to fit the Cateks, Please :)...............

[LambertoMI]

Here are some of my experiences.

I have been using a ski product called silicone binding lube. This is most compatible with our step-ins and leaves a non stick covering on the board. It does not work in every temperature, but its pretty good.

Back to the original question, I use two systems for tree and powder riding. For deep 3-4 feet powder, I go soft boots with K2 cinch. Nice binding and stiff enough to carve once you get out of the deep stuff. Or in soft 6-12 inches of powder I use the old burton step ins from the 90's. This binding has a el cheapo plastic cap on the mechanism which is great for no stick. And in powder its very easy to get into, even while seated, in soft snow.

Some temperatures are just worse for snow build up, but I have been very lucky.

[GV27]

Silicone spray is probably a good idea. It wouldn't react with the plastics and should be pretty durable.

Don't buy that binding spray unless you can get a smokin' deal on it though. I've seen that in ski shops for $$$. Betcha anything it's just plain silicone spray. I just looked it up for $8 for 50ml (~1.5oz)! You can get it at any hardware or auto parts store for around 5 bucks for like 10 or 12 ounces? Whatever a "standard" size spray can is.....

edit: this stuff: http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80070-Silicone-Spray-Lubricant/dp/B000HBM5S2/

[queequeg]

Some temperatures are just worse for snow build up, but I have been very lucky.

I used to think the worst days were the very warm spring days, but the days I think it becomes the biggest problem is when it is hovering just over 32.

On the really warm days you just get a lot of soft snow in there all the time, but it is relatively easy to remove. On the borderline days it's warm enough for loose snow to slowly accumulate underfoot, unnoticed until you stamp it into your binding and over time you add more and it slowly turns to ice (usually around the hex bolts) that you don't notice until you can't get into your bindings anymore ... and then its really hard to remove.

Hrrrm. All of this gives me an idea.

[Corey]

I have the most problems when coming out of the lodge with nice warm boots. As you walk the snow melts on the boot soles (expecially the Fintec heels) and eventually they cool enough to freeze. I'm very diligent to clean them off before stepping in that first time. Once they're the same temperature as the snow the issue usually doesn't come back.

If it's hovering around freezing though it's a constant battle. Car keys can get ice chunks out of binding crevices well enough to get you riding again.

Spike stomp pads rock, until you try to carry a board without bindings next to another board. If you never do that, that's your solution. Lower-profile stomp pads work ok and don't chew up neighbouring boards if you slip a piece of cardboard between boards.

[J0hn]

Apply duct tape + electricians tape over bolt cavities (post#9)

Just got back from a week in SLC. I tried the electrical tape trick and it worked like a charm! I still had issues with icing on my heel, especially after going inside and warming the boot. But I had no issues with icing on the toe block. Thanks for the suggestion. I love this simple, low tech solution to the problem. Electrical tape is cheap, and comes off easily if you need to work on your bindings. I will keep electrical tape with my tools from now on.

[philw]

Never had anything "premature", but then I always eyeball the back pin as I engage it. In "the wrong type of snow", sometimes you have to clear it again before it clicks into place. When it does, it's obvious to the eye.

With F2 bindings the way the pins engage depends fairly critically on precisely how you have the bindings set up: how hard the front bail is cranked down and the distance between front and rear. If you have it right they the pins "click" into place positively.

Skiers are skeptical about silicone spray. Never needed it myself. One thing is that people who use boot heaters will get ice build up in some circumstances, you can see why that would be.