dblbasscleph Posted January 29, 2011 Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 So I recently got a board/binding combo that is about 5 years old, and it seems as though the binding plates haven't been moved for those 5 years. They are catek OS1s, and I can't move them even when I take off the screws. Any suggestions? The board shop I was at to get things tuned had no idea either and they sold cateks (although only the new ones). Sorry if this is obvious or a common question, I'm pretty new to plate bindings. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrutton Posted January 29, 2011 Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 That rubber gasket on the OS1's can create a bit of a suction effect if I recall correctly. I think that I'd line a piece of wood up with the side of the binding plate and knock on the piece of wood with a mallet until it popped off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrutton Posted January 29, 2011 Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 Another way perhaps in theory would be to try to break the bond using a razer blade or feeler gauge between the topsheet and the rubber gasket. I think that once you've got part of it off, it will pop off easily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dblbasscleph Posted January 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 Thanks, I thought that might be the problem. Think there is any danger of tearing the topsheet? It is on a FCII if it matters, but it is in almost new condition. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrapster Posted January 29, 2011 Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 Pour hot/warm water on it along the edge? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrutton Posted January 29, 2011 Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 Well I wouldn't rule out danger.....go at it carefully....using a wood block should be fairly safe, as it's soft. Levering it with a screwdriver will likely cause some damage. Razor blade / feeler gauge ....possibly... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrutton Posted January 29, 2011 Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 Just another thought....the Catek OS1 donut just goes around the outside of the binding....and on 04 and later the air gap between the bottom of the plate and the ring was eliminated, so the center plate could have adhered itself to the board perhaps. http://www.alpinecarving.com/binding_model.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobdea Posted January 29, 2011 Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 flat head screwdriver between the donut and the binding, once the binding is off the donut should be peel right off. this way the metal never touches the topsheet. the older catek donuts bond to most topsheets but in the case of the older doneks that had the soft rubbery topsheet it's much more pronounced. same procedure for the td2/3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dblbasscleph Posted January 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 (in response to scrutton) Ah yes I remember reading about that, although I'm not sure what year mine are from exactly. I'll try the wood or something like that and if it doesn't work I may just leave them, I think I'm happy with their position. I guess I could also melt them off with some bunsen burners bobdea: I'll try that too if I can get a thin flathead but I think the shop guy may have tried that as well and he couldn't get it under. probably didn't have anything thin enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobdea Posted January 29, 2011 Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 if you have to assist with a ice pick. other options are to put large allen wrench in where the king pin goes and give it a yank. had to do that before when I was short on tools. it all about leverage here, just be kinda clever and you'll get it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colintkemp Posted January 29, 2011 Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 dblbasscleph, I've had that problem before too. Bobdea's suggestion (flat head screwdriver) is what I used - I just gently worked it under the plate and then turned/twisted it; the plate came off easily once the "seal" was broken. I caused no damage to the top sheet or otherwise. Be gentle, though. Best of luck. Colin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowrider Posted January 29, 2011 Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 Try riding it without the screws i'll bet it's not as stuck as you think it is !:lol:.Put your boots on and jump around on it not ride a double black diamond. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donek Posted January 30, 2011 Report Share Posted January 30, 2011 Just bend the board. You can try decambering it, but bending backwards usually does the trick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KingCrimson Posted January 30, 2011 Report Share Posted January 30, 2011 Try riding it without the screws i'll bet it's not as stuck as you think it is !:lol:.Put your boots on and jump around on it not ride a double black diamond. That's actually how I got mine off.. My TD2s stuck to the protective tape on a Coiler.. All I did was click in and do some carpet carving and it tore right out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Houghton Posted January 30, 2011 Report Share Posted January 30, 2011 If you put a piece of 3/8 plywood on the board next to the plate it's a lot easier to get a screwdriver between the plate and gasket and lever it off. Flexing the board should work too, either by hand or carpet surfing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~tb Posted January 31, 2011 Report Share Posted January 31, 2011 Just bend the board. You can try decambering it, but bending backwards usually does the trick. Sean is right on this one. I have yet to find a pair that don't come off easily if you flex the board backwards. I would NOT pry with anything as I would not want to scratch or bend anything. Another trick that works on the OS1's is to take a M5 allen wrench and stick it in the outer most 3D hole. use the other end as a handle and pry the plate up. Bending the board works better, but if I am too lazy to flip the board, this tends to work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dblbasscleph Posted January 31, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2011 Yes Sean was right. After I bent the board I could pull them off with my fingers; pretty great! Thanks for your help yall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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