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How to carve softer snow?


newcarver

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What is the best technique to carve in fresher packed powder, as in powder that was just groomed? I was riding my AM board and doing moderate carves when I almost got highsided when the edges dug in very deep. I'm guessing that this might have been from inconsistant snowpack? I probably should be paying more attention and be ready to adjust accordingly with variable softness of snow?

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Its about being very light with your inputs and binding placement. You cant shove a board in soft like you can on hard snow. A forward, agressive riding style will always get you into trouble in the soft. New boards with rockered noses are much the prefered soft snow rides, the give you a little extra added safety with the hinged nose always hunting for the top of the snow unlike most old tech glass boards that want to dive to the center of the earth.

Think Snow!

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Its about being very light with your inputs and binding placement. You cant shove a board in soft like you can on hard snow. A forward, agressive riding style will always get you into trouble in the soft.

Think Snow!

+1 and would ad that not all boards are created equal in these conditions. I go for something that has a stiffer nose. coiler AM's are like that. soft in the middle but stiffer right in front of the binding. mine was the most unfoldable board I have ever had. which is what you want in very soft groom or in the spring. there's others too just be wary of anything you think you can potentially stuff.

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Number one cause of broken ankles amongst my buddies here in Sun Valley.

They make this perfect groom and then they blow three inches of man made duff on it. Very frustrating as you can't always see where it is.

Definitely try to ride a bit more upright and balanced style. When I have stuffed it in soft pow it was always because I got too forward. Then the friction of the nose grabs and you have no place to go but catapult forward to face plant.

Tail carve??

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Yeah, I agree with Jim, and the others.

You can carve it, but it's probably more worth your time to go hunting for the soft stuff in the trees, etc..

If I'm carving in softer snow I don't turn as hard, I sit a little more in the back seat, and ride with a much lighter touch . Railing turns is fun, but in the increased danger of digging/folding your nose, highsiding and maybe breaking an ankle isn't worth it for me. In any case, it is also really fun to do lazy, fast cruising in that kind of snow you're talking about - a few inches of fresh snow groomed in (or not) overnight is the perfect surface for letting the board loose and doing like 6 huge, high speed, low-G carved turns all the way down the hill :)

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I usually just carve the nice big blue run down to the village for lunch after riding hike to double blacks in knee deep pow! Also, carved after lunch because my legs were too tired to handle the pow anymore :rolleyes:

The board I ride on pow days is pretty soft in the nose which might explain why I was digging in so hard. It's hard not to carve some when I ride. Usually when I crash and get banged up is when I'm riding something other than a race board and trying to carve :smashfrea

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The board I ride on pow days is pretty soft in the nose which might explain why I was digging in so hard. It's hard not to carve some when I ride. Usually when I crash and get banged up is when I'm riding something other than a race board and trying to carve :smashfrea

I agree with what has been said so far from the solid technique advice to go find some soft powder and don't carve on overly soft groom because it is dangerous.

I do find that carving with softboots and a softboot board on soft groom is much easier and safer. Any powder board (soft nosed, rockered, heavy taper) I have ever ridden carves well on soft groom in softboots (except the Prior Spearhead). I absolutely carve powder day groom when I am headed back to the lift.

Hardboots definitely could overpower a powder board and the soft snow without a subtle technique (the big Tankers and a few other boards excluded).

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