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Are There Any Cosmic Snow Surfers Out There?


Edtudo

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are you Nexus-6? how about a Voight-Kampff just to be sure?

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Ed: The airbrush artwork of Rick Griffin (from 5 Summer Stories) brought back wonderful memories of being a young surf grom on the east coast many years ago. There are many among us here who are 'cosmic surfers' who have tasted saltwater tubes and foam, slid skreeching urethane wheels, and have had powder face shots and thrown cold smoke.

I have often found myself reading surfing magazines in book stores and I haven't been on a surfboard in over 30 years. And although I ride snowboards and skateboards I have always tended to believe that I am a surfer first, and a skateboarder and a snowboarder second. This mentality may seem odd coming from a land-locked old fat guy but, to me it is simply paying obeisance to my roots: the natural rhythms of the oceans. Everything is derived from the sea and water systems of the earth.

Once I discovered I could carve deep bottom turns on a race board using hardboots, I became useless to society. I am a bum. I am a carving bum. I cannot let it go. I do not need or want a 12-step program to stop my addiction. I want it to take me over and own me.

Mark

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Years ago, one late afternoon I arrived at Rincon Point in Calif only to find a swell hitting and not much of a crowd (rare).

The tide was low and coming in and 8 to 10 foot sets. I caught a wave and a beautiful wall lined up in front of me. The sun was a large orange ball on the horizon, the wave suddenly hit a shallow area where sand had built up over the rock. As I went into the tube- my tail lifted and I had to readjust to get back down the wave face. Suddenly -with the sun on the horizon and the light coming through the wave , I found myself in a crystal tube with an exploding and sparkling light rainbow wrapping all around me disorienting me.

This was what I would term "a cosmic experience". I was lit up for two days with endorphins

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Ed,

Ok gotcha now

As you stated, 2 second in a tube is worth 2 days of powder, especially when things are right (glassy, no wind, seagulls and dawnpatrol) ( we dont get those conditions very often here, and i'm far from the sea damn)

On of my best personnal cosmic experience has been in haapiti/morea lagoon at dawn paddling out the whole stuff while it was still between night and day and hearing the directions to go only: almost cried when the island shadow uncovered the lineup and took my first wave all alone ( before the magz brought loads of surfers out there)...stood up, and just glided all the face smoothly, just feeling the noise of the water touching the board...gosh its worth a million !

N

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