I'm hooked!

[Arclite]

I fiddled with the setup of the Landyachtz a bit - dewedged the rear truck. What a difference! Definitlelly more railed-in, but way less turny. Not sure yet which way I like it better...

Supposedly better for sliding and downhill.

Get a super turny front truck and a really stable rear truck and you're set.

Or that's what im going to try.

Core in back, R-II in front.

Or Paris 150 in front, revenge in back.

[BlueB]

Yup, I already had RII in front (naturally wedged by the nose rise) and Indy in the back, flat. Now that I added the negative wedge (or is it de-wedge?) in the back, I really can tell the difference.

[Arclite]

Mine has 50* bases on it.

De-wedging is the term :p

And wedging an R-II is interesting, you have to reverse the wedge to compensate for the reverse kingpin.

[KingCrimson]

Okay, use your imagination here for a minute Julian. Look at these conventional and reverse kingpin trucks. Wide circle is the hangar.

Now, using your imagination, wedge the trucks in the same manner and tell me what happens to the kingpin angle.

The hanger is marked by a dot, which I guess is a pivot cup.

You should quickly notice that the kingpins are parallel, thus wedging them would cause them to react the same.

untitled.bmp

[Bullwings]

Revenges definitely are not made to be stable trucks. The torsion design wasn't made for stability.

If you want a stable rear truck without going to precision trucks.

Look at Crails. Tracker RTS. Randal RII with a 35 degree or 28 degree base plate. My personal favorite - Seismic trucks (Stable turn 30 degree, NOT the fast turn 45 degree).

As for carvy front trucks. The carviest front truck i've been on are Bennetts. Either the 4.3, 5.0, or 6.0 (110, 125, and 150 mm hangers respectively or something approximately close to that).

I really want to try out some Indy's, maybe 169s or 215s. As for wedging and de-wedging, if you know much or anything at all about pumping, it's all about the wedging and the bushings.

Thin side facing away from the center of the board (whether front or back) is wedging and generally increases the turniness of the board. Thin side facing in toward the center of the board is dewedging and decreases turniness while increasing stability.

The various baseplates offered for randal trucks pretty much do the same thing. 50 degree base plates have more wedging and are much turnier/less stable than 35 degree base plates which are more dewedged, less turny, and more stable.

I used to do a bit of long distance pumping, so on flat ground without any headwind, I can pump my board for about 1-2 miles without ever putting my foot down, sometimes even more if i'm really in the groove and have a good rythm. A lot of people can do 10+ miles easily. The deck is important, but even more important is the right truck with the correct wedging and bushings. Unfortunately, LDP decks are super sketchy for downhill due to a super twitchy front truck that is likely to dive and pitch you off of the board or give you speed wobs.

[wavechaser]

Yes - reverse kingpin trucks wedge exactly the same way as regular kingpin trucks...unless they are put on backwards that is. ;-)

Bennetts and Indys need minimal positive wedge in front and max negative wedge in rear to work for pumping setups. Bennets in front I ran flat (0) for GS, and +5 degrees for everything else...more than that and they "dive" at the end of a deep turn (can be minimized by using a yellow 75a stim on the bottom WITH a cup washer). Any Indys in the rear I'd start with -15 degrees neg. wedge (all degrees are from FLAt bottom of board - compensate for kicktails / wedge noses / down-tails).

I wouldn't use a 50 degree Randal plate on a big speed deck with a wedge nose - you'd be talking 60-67 degrees mostly...gnarly wobs possible at full speed (over 40).

-RF

[Gecko]

I am currently waiting on a Soda Factory drop through to be setup with Indy 215's and Lime Freerides should be a fun sub 40mph dh board. I still have my Andrew K dropthrough for anything faster....there is a really good thread on the Fish about Indy's and downhill skating written by racer who rides them exclusively....look for threads started by Upsetter

[Bullwings]

How're Indy's as far as pumping goes?

For me, Bennetts are king of the pump for non-precision cast trucks. But, yeah, they have way too much dive if you set them up for long distance pumping - pumping rides of 10 miles plus.

I started dewedging my randals on my Subsonic Century (deck has 20 to 25 degrees of wedging built into the nose already), and I really dislike how reverse KP trucks end up getting much shorter wheelbases as you dewedge them - I'm getting wheelbite on my deck even with the wheel cut outs. However, with my Bennetts, there's a ton of left over room that wheel bite isn't even a concern - that's using the 4.3/5.0 baseplates with a 6.0 hanger. I just need to fix the dive - i'll try out a stim.

Anyone know where I can pick up single Indy 169 trucks instead of in pairs?

[Arclite]

Scratch that.

I blame my dad.

He came up with the idea!

[Bullwings]

Hey Gecko, quick question about the Indy's.

How are they messured as far as sizing goes? Is 215mm from hanger end to end or axle to axle?

Is the 149mm or the 169mm comparable to a Randal 150? I'd like something to replace my Bennett 6.0 and Randal 150, close to that size.

[Gecko]

Indy measuring

149 = hanger width 150mm more or less

169 = hanger width 161mm more or less

215 = hanger width 183mm more or less

as you can see the numbers are pretty much a name thing

FWIW Tracker 219's are actually 213mm wide at the hanger

[wavechaser]

I'm getting wheelbite on my deck even with the wheel cut outs....I just need to fix the dive - i'll try out a stim.

Wheelbite? Easy - add risers as needed. I follow the "two finger" deck-to-wheel clearance rule usually.

When you setup Yellow 75a Stim as a bottom bushing goes on the Bennetts, be sure to use a bushing cup and shims under it - and cut away the part that contacts the pivot arm (an angled cut about 3-4mm deep).

Sk8 on!

-RF

[tenorman]

.....my 3 yr old's interest in skateboards had me pulling out my 20+ yr old dogtown scott oster out of cobwebs & going for a shaky back alley session. the big boards look like so much fun, and more up my alley (ie, mellow carving).

always thought the rayne boards looked cool (first saw them at the east van culture crawl a couple years ago), and coincidentally, my baby girl is of the same name, so i feel somehow obligated to buy one. love to support the locals, anyways. got my eye on the hellcat atm - sweet looking deck.

hi xy9ine

you can probably try out longboarding without an initial capital outlay if you are willing to modify your existing board. the scott oster board was a little wide but still acceptable (a little extra leverage can sometimes come in handy.) you can leave the front truck where it is but just drill some new holes about an inch from the rear of the deck and reposition the back truck. you will need a bunch of wedged risers (or make shims out of cutting board) to dewedge the rear truck back to its original angle.

i am guessing that you are probably running indy 166 trucks on that board. although they were originally shortboard trucks i find they are excellent carving trucks if you wedge the front one slightly. leave the back truck flat for lower speed carving and trick sliding or dewedge it if you are interested in mainly high speed downhilling.

i have a newer and narrower (single kick) dogtown DYLAN WALSH board that i modified into a combination small wheelbased downhill board / bigger course hybrid slalom / smaller course gs board. the final wheelbase is about 20 inches which makes it very versatile. here are some pics you can use as a guide:

wish i knew you wanted a hellcat as i gave mine away last year to anna o’neill the young calgary racer since i never really got dialed in to the short wheelbase. i’ve got quite a few other RAYNE boards that you can try out if you want. probably better to give GRAHAM BUKSA (RAYNE principal) a phonecall as i am sure he has the latest models set up for demos at his shop (he has since moved the shop to the north shore from east van.)

p.s. mention that you do the same type of snowboarding as i do and that you want a skateboard that is designed to do the same thing on pavement as on snow.

p.p.s. on second thought since i am the only alpine snowboarder GRAHAM has probably ever seen maybe you shouldn’t mention me at all since he will then set you up with a skateboard that carves like a TERMINALLY INTERMEDIATE HARDBOOTER lol.

[Bullwings]

Wheelbite? Easy - add risers as needed. I follow the "two finger" deck-to-wheel clearance rule usually.

When you setup Yellow 75a Stim as a bottom bushing goes on the Bennetts, be sure to use a bushing cup and shims under it - and cut away the part that contacts the pivot arm (an angled cut about 3-4mm deep).

Sk8 on!

-RF

Yeah, I have tons of risers, but I don't want to riser the deck up so high. I suck at foot braking and being higher up just makes it worse. Top that with my left leg (front) being my bad leg with 6 surgeries and a major break and it gets kind of hard to balance - I'm working on it but I still suck.

Anyway, with a regular KP truck I can use the same riser height that would give me wheelbite with a reverse KP truck.

I found a local shop that sells Indy trucks by the singles, now I just need to decide what size trucks I want - 149, 169 or 215. I'll pick up a bunch of bushings too, I don't have any stims. I just have a bunch of regular Khiro and Venom barrel and cone bushings. I'm using a Venom barrel-cone top-bottom on my Bennett, it really gives me that nice tic-tac motion that I like for pumping but at the cost of stability with dive.

My Lime Freerides came in today, BUT. I wasn't home and the package needed my signature... damn it. I'll pass by the post office tomorrow to pick them up.

xy9ine -

I have an Axe2.5 setup almost exactly like that board in the picture that tenorman has. It's definitely something to try, but keep in mind it's a much different feeling from a board with a little bit of flex that's a little bit longer. It'll give you a bit of a taste of longboarding, but it'll be way different from riding a 40" board with a 28-30" wheelbase with a little bit of flex.

[tenorman]

....Roy really looked good on Rhaine downhill board...

hi BLUEB

i made a few tweaks to roy's board which i thought was necessary after seeing him ride 2 weeks ago otherwise i would have just let him keep the board as is. all my carving boards are for a sub 200 pounder so i didn't have anything suitable for him to use. the only thing to do was to try to tweak the set up of one of my stiffer dh boards as a big heavy guy's carving board.

i think i found the solution. the demonseed with an indy 215 clone at the rear mounted flat until he learns to slide properly and then dewedge it. since he was complaining that the randall r2 wasn't turning quick enough for him, i swapped it out for a revenge truck. as long as he stays under 20 mph he should avoid death. i think after he gets better and starts going faster he will definitely want to put either the randall or indy back up front. unless you are really skillful (i am not) the revenge trucks seem to be more of a slow speed supercarving gimmick than a serious higher speed truck.

i dug out some mint condition 76 mm krypto classic k wheels in a harder green (83a) duro for heavyweight ROY. these wheels are the original krypto formula not the crappy new formula so i think he will still be happy with these wheels after he progresses past the beginner's stage. with these wheels ROY will have no excuse for not being able to slide like DARRYL FREEMAN in those old kryptos ads lol.

[xy9ine]

hi xy9ine

you can probably try out longboarding without an initial capital outlay if you are willing to modify your existing board. the scott oster board was a little wide but still acceptable (a little extra leverage can sometimes come in handy.) you can leave the front truck where it is but just drill some new holes about an inch from the rear of the deck and reposition the back truck. you will need a bunch of wedged risers (or make shims out of cutting board) to dewedge the rear truck back to its original angle.

i am guessing that you are probably running indy 166 trucks on that board. although they were originally shortboard trucks i find they are excellent carving trucks if you wedge the front one slightly. leave the back truck flat for lower speed carving and trick sliding or dewedge it if you are interested in mainly high speed downhilling.

that's a rad idea. i've got indy 169's on there right now. think i'll keep the board stock (needs some new wheels though; the 20 yr old ojII 92a's are a wee bit rough); having fun just weedling about at the moment on it & trying to remember how to skate again. a fun casual play board methinks. feeling a bit of a dork - 40yr old guy skating about feebly - but having fun.

i think the rayne's look hot (and i'm a gear whore), so i'll most likely pick one up regardless.

[BlueB]

feeling a bit of a dork - 40yr old guy skating about feebly - but having fun.

Don't worry - we are all on the same boat :D

Just blame it on Doug...

We didn't have the session today... I was up too busy - just at the end of a big project.

[xy9ine]

Hey boris what are you doing up?

I don't mean to thread jack but I see a chance here

I'm looking for wheels in the 82-88 duro range in a 57mm to 60 mm size, 8 of them, I know smaller than you all use but thought I'd put it out there, can't find em anywhere (yet) and they don't seem to be making them, so I'm hoping to score some nos, or not to destroyed used ones, anybody?

looks like there's several companies making wheels like that (abec 11, retro, etc, at a quick glance) lots online.

[ursle]

looks like there's several companies making wheels like that (abec 11, retro, etc, at a quick glance) lots online.

Thanks. I'd had no luck, if you would be so kind, what's the etc...

I hadn't mentioned that I like a metal or solid hub, the abec 11, are already on their way:)

bought my last wheels in 78, missed the whole skate board thing, (got off mine in 68), been goggling with no results, knew you all knew

[KingCrimson]

Don't think you'll find metal hubs very easily, and I think all decent decent longboard wheels have a solid hub. Otherwise you're more looking at harder duro freestyle type wheels.

Mind if I ask why you're so sure about the numbers you want in a wheel? What sort of skating are you doing?

Sounds like you maybe want to run some pool or something, but if you go a bit bigger there are a plethora of better wheels.

[KingCrimson]

The sizes you want are really out of my realm of experience, but it seems like there's a number of dimensions and specifications you want that simply don't exist.

In your searches, you've probably noticed that everything in the sizes you want is either too hard, or has a soft core in the case of bones wheels, and of course everything in the durometer you want is too big.

Call me crazy, but that might be a sign that the wheel design you desire isn't exactly a popular and contemporary one.

It's a bit like..wanting a 190 slalom board with an 8 meter sidecut, 1.5cm of reverse taper, a super stiff nose and mid with a floppy tail and good pow performance.

[KingCrimson]

Hahah alright I'll leave ya alone. :)

This is a 2 part post, the second portion is completely optional.

What I was getting at is that it's a bit odd that Bertz and NoSkoolz are more or less the only 2 widespread wheels that fit that bill. And as far as my personal experience goes (I suppose there's 100 or so longboards at school every day, 70 of which are sector 9s) for normal longboarding I've probably only seen 2 or 3 sets. Park skating lots of people have them but I suck at that so I can't speak for that use. The consensus on the fish is they are best for this use, with the Bertz being a little more retro cruiser oriented, so they very well could suit you well since you were after NOS wheels. For what you describe I'd rather be on some slalom style wheels, but the beauty of skating is it's fun as long as the board rolls!

[Gecko]

you could also try these Earthwing Superballs they are 56mm but are all the rage in New York for guys who like to skate everywhere on a street deck

[Gecko]

Doesn't look like a bad hub, very nice

those are poured at Creative Urethane so both the core and the thane itself is top notch

I see you arn't holding a grudge about my posting the picture of the gecko in the mouth of the hawk last year :D, thanks for this info

I don't hold grudges, life is too short......plus I like hawks

[Bullwings]

Hey boris what are you doing up?

I don't mean to thread jack but I see a chance here

I'm looking for wheels in the 82-88 duro range in a 57mm to 60 mm size, 8 of them, I know smaller than you all use but thought I'd put it out there, can't find em anywhere (yet) and they don't seem to be making them, so I'm hoping to score some nos, or not to destroyed used ones, anybody?

Yeah, sorry for the thread jack BlueB, but it seems like the official longboard thread jack thread - like 3 or 4 different thread jacks going on in here.

I just found this Ursle.

http://socalskateshop.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=4958

Ricta wheels, in 82b duro at 60mm. There's a bunch of other Ricta wheels that look like they fit your size range - I don't know anything about the wheels though. I'm mostly on mainstream longboarding wheels - seismic, abec 11/retro, earthwing. Burnquist put his name on it, so they must be at least decent...

I found this shop while looking for a place that'll sell me Indy trucks in singles and not pairs. I'm gonna pass by there tomorrow.