Can my board be saved?

[shawndoggy]

Coiler AM-T. Hit something on day 2 in the trees. Weird base shot, almost like a hatchet chop. went all the way to the metal core. Noticed it when the back half of gash peeled up and started digging into the snow, "parachuting" me to an unexpected stop.

On the advice of the locals, I took the board to the Race Place in Bend, where they kept the board for a week, letting it dry completely. They then repaired the board by epoxying the ptex down, filling in the cut a bit and then giving it a base grind. Unfortunately I don't have any pics of the repair before I rode on it.

Anyway after about 2 half days on the board, the ptex fill that Race Place put in is coming away. I can see metal. The rear part of the ptex is staying down this time, but in my mind I can feel the board dragging underfoot.

After the grind, the ptex seems a bit thinner, so I'm nervous about another grind unnecessarily. Thoughts on what to do? Ride it as is? Invest in ptex candles and fill it old school like I used to do with my performer elite 150? Mount it as wall art?

[Randy T.]

Shawn,

Maybe this method would work for it... If you don't want to try at home I would recomend taking it to one of the shops in Truckee.

http://www.bomberonline.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=24155&highlight=coiler+metal+base+repair

[nils]

remove all wax so ptex sticks to it..

best solution would be a 10-12mm patch all along the scar, then sand the board ( die cut patch) with the same ptex.

i like the no alcoholic beverage beyond this point notice....do they give you tickers if you cross this point with a beer in hand?...this kind of stuff always amazes us euros! ;)

N

[Bruce Varsava]

Definitely needed patch and I thought they would have done that in the first place. The article by Fleaman is the way I would tackle it. Once you start hitting aluminum you then have to worry about re prepping it with acid etch etc and the bond is never as good as the original to the anodized aluminum. If the repair seems to be stuck down which it does, best to do a small patch over the gash and make the bond new ptex to flame treated ptex. If they ground a bunch off it gets more and more iffy. Original ptex depth is 1.2mm and looks like you could measure to see what you have left.

BV

[shawndoggy]

Definitely needed patch and I thought they would have done that in the first place. The article by Fleaman is the way I would tackle it. Once you start hitting aluminum you then have to worry about re prepping it with acid etch etc and the bond is never as good as the original to the anodized aluminum. If the repair seems to be stuck down which it does, best to do a small patch over the gash and make the bond new ptex to flame treated ptex. If they ground a bunch off it gets more and more iffy. Original ptex depth is 1.2mm and looks like you could measure to see what you have left.

BV

Thanks for the input Bruce. I spoke with Brian at Race Place in Bend today, and I asked about the patch. He said that it was a judgment call on his part and that his concern was with removing even more p-tex, esp because the gash was across the board because the new patch would provide a place for the base to catch and peel off the patch (thus revealing an even bigger core shot).

Brian's suggestion was to just live with it and refill it with a soldering iron and ptex wire from time to time.

I dunno. I'd like to get it fixed, but I'd sure like some level of confidence that I'm not throwing good money after bad.

[queequeg]

Thanks for the input Bruce. I spoke with Brian at Race Place in Bend today, and I asked about the patch. He said that it was a judgment call on his part and that his concern was with removing even more p-tex, esp because the gash was across the board because the new patch would provide a place for the base to catch and peel off the patch (thus revealing an even bigger core shot).

Brian's suggestion was to just live with it and refill it with a soldering iron and ptex wire from time to time.

I dunno. I'd like to get it fixed, but I'd sure like some level of confidence that I'm not throwing good money after bad.

You may be able to avoid issues with the patch peeling due to abrasion with some careful shaping of the patch material. Basically - you could cut the patch such that it has a vertical profile like a rhombus, and cut the surrrounding ptex to fit this profile exactly. One of the rhombus would slide under a flap of the surrrouncing ptex (towards the nose of your board), while the rear end would rest on top of the surrounding ptex - this should work relatively well as long as you are always moving forward. Not easy, but it should work, provided you've got enough ptex to work with. See diagram (diagram has base facing up, obviously ... do this the wrong way around and it will GUARANTEE peeling):

[Dave ESPI]

on a free ride board, its fixable, but seeing as how much we flex that area on the board..... I dont think there is much you can do as a long term permanent fix other than some flexible epoxy and wideneing the gash with a \______/ v cut at high angle to allow the board to not drag as much.

Make it a "rock board" for crap-o conditions is about all that really can be done longterm.

Sorry d00der, It might be a wall decoration or "shelf" in your room now. Shale and Slate rocks are the death of a few boards in my neck of the woods.

I took 3 huge shots to one of my race boards this year being stupid in early season thin cover off the edge of a trail. I was beyond pissed at myself for the stupidity of it ( OMG FRESH POW LETS HIT IT ! ) Luckily they were straight down and fixable, but still I can feel a difference in the board when riding flat.

[M.Nash]

If you live in Reno check with The Starthaus in Truckee. I would say they would be your best bet to get it fixed and done right.

[bobdea]

on a free ride board, its fixable, but seeing as how much we flex that area on the board..... I dont think there is much you can do as a long term permanent fix other than some flexible epoxy and wideneing the gash with a \______/ v cut at high angle to allow the board to not drag as much.

Make it a "rock board" for crap-o conditions is about all that really can be done longterm.

Sorry d00der, It might be a wall decoration or "shelf" in your room now. Shale and Slate rocks are the death of a few boards in my neck of the woods.

I took 3 huge shots to one of my race boards this year being stupid in early season thin cover off the edge of a trail. I was beyond pissed at myself for the stupidity of it ( OMG FRESH POW LETS HIT IT ! ) Luckily they were straight down and fixable, but still I can feel a difference in the board when riding flat.

I disagree

I've seen patched boards with similar issues hold up well.

sometimes they don't but WORTH A SHOT.

I have seen people race on boards and skis that have taken some damage like that and they repaired them, holding for years.

should not be able to feel a properly mended base as long as your edge was not screwed up.

[Fleaman]

Although my patch was a small one, it is still holding up well with lots abuse. I even got a big gouge up to the patch I repaired and it held. I think if you take the time to do what quequeg printed, it would work out fine using my descriptions. You can email me if you like for more info. Like what kind of beer to drink and cookies to eat while playing Dr Frankenstein with your board.

[Bruce Varsava]

Although my patch was a small one, it is still holding up well with lots abuse. I even got a big gouge up to the patch I repaired and it held. I think if you take the time to do what quequeg printed, it would work out fine using my descriptions. You can email me if you like for more info. Like what kind of beer to drink and cookies to eat while playing Dr Frankenstein with your board.

Even with my limited experience I would agree with Fleaman that if done properly it should last for good. The Rhomboid deal sounds good but in reality with the thin material and usually crude tools used its tough to get it all to fit properly. Of course that also does not address how you shape the sides of the patch. I would assume at 90 degrees but then when you slide your board its not ideal in theory . Rounded off patches work best as there is no corners for peeling to start.

Ptex has awesome bond strength if prepped properly so I can see no reason the board cannot be put back into good condition.

Worst case you could take it right to the metal, acid etch, chromic acid stabilize and then bond to that.

BV

[Hans]

Had a bigger gouge than your board. But that was in the early days without titanal. If I have looked carefully your titanal base layer is also damaged all through the woodcore. Well in that case the titanallayer wouldn't have the tension like before. I should try this and it won't cost you that much either:

Open up the gouge a little more and make about 45 degrees gradual sides in it so that the new ptex can bond properly. Use for instance the metal ptec from Tognar: Black Metal grip Repair String: http://www.tognar.com/base_repair_tools_iron_ptex_gouges_damage.html

and also use their Base repair iron or another one. I have a sort of iron bought here in europe and I have good results with it. Absolutely no grinding needed for us recreational carvers. Just take a fine sandpaper (corel 300 to 400) and a flattening tool from Ray: http://www.alpineskituning.com/index.htm and your board will be as new all by yourself. Good luck!

[bobdea]

there's also stuff called metal grip, shops use it on core shots and along edges

supposed to bond to metal

Black Metal Grip Repair String Item #SPK-560336: $6.95 roll at tognar.

noticed it in the link someone else posted.

[shawndoggy]

there's also stuff called metal grip, shops use it on core shots and along edges

supposed to bond to metal

Black Metal Grip Repair String Item #SPK-560336: $6.95 roll at tognar.

noticed it in the link someone else posted.

Man, I wish some of you guys lived HERE... there'd be a case of beer in it for you...!

Yeah, Brian at Race Place mentioned using metal grip. He said it's harder to work with though cuz it's super sticky so probably not the best idea for me for as a home repair newb to use on the first shot.

Considering just doing the ptex string / soldering iron thing and seeing if it holds any better...

[bobdea]

Man, I wish some of you guys lived HERE... there'd be a case of beer in it for you...!

Yeah, Brian at Race Place mentioned using metal grip. He said it's harder to work with though cuz it's super sticky so probably not the best idea for me for as a home repair newb to use on the first shot.

Considering just doing the ptex string / soldering iron thing and seeing if it holds any better...

yeah

the metal grip, I have never used it just watched looks sticky as **** what I've seen done is you lay it down and put ptex over it.

I'd get that cheap gun on tognar, some black sticks and some metal grip. The gun will work better than a iron for sure, I've used both and the iron is more hit or miss where the gun you can really get it flowing in

get a old something or other, deck or skis whatever gouge them with something and practice mending a few gouges.

you'd be amazed at the quality of work you can do if you buy some tools.

that cheap gun in the link has me considering a purchase!

the gun will pay for it's self the first time you use it, and will earn you much beer from your friends.

[Hans]

Metal grip: yeah you must be careful with it. Just little pieces. It's just a matter of time and patience but it's not that hard. What is too much I scrape it of.

[M.Nash]

Just wanted to check in and see if you have had the board repaired yet and if so if is holding up.

[shawndoggy]

Gah! Took it to Start Haus in Truckee last weekend. Tried to explain the thoughts expressed on this thread to the tech. "no problem dude, we can fix anything."

Me: "OK, but see it's metal down there and the board flexes a lot and..."

SH: "Dude, srsly, we got it."

So I go back to pick it up sunday and they'd done the same sort of "fill in the crack with ptex" that Race Place did.

Me: "uh, that's what the last guys did and it didn't work."

SH: "that's because they didn't know what they were doing... we fixed the right way."

Me: "uh... OK."

Took six laps on the board on Monday at Mt Rose. All of the filled ptex is gone. Grrrrrr.

[LeeW]

Shoulda take it back to that shop and prove it to him that he doesnt know what he's doing, too!

[shawndoggy]

Shoulda take it back to that shop and prove it to him that he doesnt know what he's doing, too!

Oh I will... but that's a drag too... it's 40 miles away. Gotta round-trip it twice up and down the hill.

[Fastskiguy]

You know, I was reading this thinking they'd solve your problem for sure...until I got to the last line. Total bummer! Well, the board has had it, maybe you should just give it away. I'd be happy to give it a good home :)

But seriously, this can't be a totally insolvable problem. I'd be tempted to raise holy hell at SH, first they write you off as a nut job, then assure you the other shop didn't know what they are doing, then their repair fails in 6 runs.

I don't have a big problem with a repair failing but if you're gonna ignore the customers concerns and say the other place doesn't know what's it's doing then you had better make damn sure your fix works.

I don't mean to get you riled up but man, that pisses me off!

Gah! Took it to Start Haus in Truckee last weekend. Tried to explain the thoughts expressed on this thread to the tech. "no problem dude, we can fix anything."

Me: "OK, but see it's metal down there and the board flexes a lot and..."

SH: "Dude, srsly, we got it."

So I go back to pick it up sunday and they'd done the same sort of "fill in the crack with ptex" that Race Place did.

Me: "uh, that's what the last guys did and it didn't work."

SH: "that's because they didn't know what they were doing... we fixed the right way."

Me: "uh... OK."

Took six laps on the board on Monday at Mt Rose. All of the filled ptex is gone. Grrrrrr.

[shawndoggy]

You know, I was reading this thinking they'd solve your problem for sure...until I got to the last line. Total bummer! Well, the board has had it, maybe you should just give it away. I'd be happy to give it a good home :)

But seriously, this can't be a totally insolvable problem. I'd be tempted to raise holy hell at SH, first they write you off as a nut job, then assure you the other shop didn't know what they are doing, then their repair fails in 6 runs.

I don't have a big problem with a repair failing but if you're gonna ignore the customers concerns and say the other place doesn't know what's it's doing then you had better make damn sure your fix works.

I don't mean to get you riled up but man, that pisses me off!

LOL, well FSG I'm sure it's really just karma coming back to bite me on the arse. See, I was a 20 year old (bike) shop rat one time too, and I'm sure I must have know-it-all'd some one like this back in the day. What comes around goes around and all that.

But yeah, it will be fun to yell at them.

[Fastskiguy]

LOL, well FSG I'm sure it's really just karma coming back to bite me on the arse. See, I was a 20 year old (bike) shop rat one time too, and I'm sure I must have know-it-all'd some one like this back in the day. What comes around goes around and all that.

But yeah, it will be fun to yell at them.

Heh, maybe so, I can remember telling people they were crazy and then finding out they were right and I was wrong a few times too.

[shawndoggy]

dropped it off again, this time they're going with metal grip. See how that works....

[shawndoggy]

Got a call that apparently there is a small split to the metal under the ptex. They are going to go for a bigger patch ala fleaman. It works or it's a rock board.