Love Me Softly...Carving Critique?

[mrjamie]

It's been a while since anyone who knows how to carve has seen me carve, so I humbly submit a video on softies. The angles are up (35/15) on a Rossignol Jones board with Salomon SPX 45 bindings and burton driver-x boots.

I'm having a bit of trouble sloughing off speed and it feels like my heelside doesn't bite as well as my toeside. Watching the video it looks like I'm not being dynamic enough with my lower body and I'm leaning over slightly too much for toeside carves; on heelside carves I should try reaching for my front binding.

Any advice or suggestions you would offer is most welcome...only, love me softly

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[bobdea]

looks good

are you heeling out?

that board looks so small!

[carvedog]

looks good

are you heeling out?

that board looks so small!

my thought too.

[Dr D]

instead of using your hands for balance use them to drive the edge. left hand is ok but use the right hand dynamically. push the right hand out over the nose on your heelside turns and drop it to your side or hip on the toesides. you can get even more edge by driving both hands out over the nose on your heelsides. think handlebars.

steepen your angles until there is 0 overhang:biggthump

[mrjamie]

I know that style...I love that style!

Your avatar pic will go to a slarve (slowdown)by bending the knees and

focusing the energy on the nose while the tail releases...to much and we

go into a 360, so it is a feel and practice thing. I have to be more aggro on heelside with a lot of kneebend and body out front to stay on the edge and

and not wash out...just my 2 cents.

Thought your video looked great and you looked relaxed and being relaxed

lets us do our best stuff...

Yea, my heelsides feel the same way, but I'm on softies -- angulation and aggressive edging, always good things to practice :o

my thought too.

It's a 163 wide Rossignol Jones board, and the tail is pretty soft too.

Looks like no boot out on backside turns coming into last frontside where

you look heavy on the turn and stay late into the last backside where you

release your tail by letting the weight move back to far... we all do that

occasionally?:D

Please let us know if when you are turning frontside or backside that your

binding/boot is digging in and causing your edge to slip out ?..though to me

you look way to relaxed to have not figured that out before ?

Ah-hash, so ifsh I moves back too farsh on the tail during a heelshide, it shlides out huh? Well alright wisheguy! Time to loesh some weight!

Definitely does not feel like binding/heel out, that's for sure. I've been using 35/15 on the softboots and that works for carving and powder, but it feels a little weird -- with my feet both angled forward but at dramatically different degrees, each one has a different axis to tilt on... any recommendations from other soft boot carvers (with big feet ) for binding angles?

instead of using your hands for balance use them to drive the edge. left hand is ok but use the right hand dynamically. push the right hand out over the nose on your heelside turns and drop it to your side or hip on the toesides. you can get even more edge by driving both hands out over the nose on your heelsides. think handlebars.

steepen your angles until there is 0 overhang:biggthump

Handlebars, I see. This was my first time seeing myself carve in about a year, and all that flopping about was new to me too.

Thanks much for the posts

edit: I did a quick review of the board, if anyone's interested it is @ http://rogueumbrella.blogspot.com/2009/03/snowboard-review-rossignol-jones-163.html

[Jack M]

Yeah, you're ready for an alpine board. It will open the door for you. There is some good stuff going on there, including some cross-under technique. I think you're to the point where you'll need an alpine board or at least a much longer freeride board to move forward.

[DjulezD]

The only thing that strikes me as not good in your vid is how your front leg is extended on the first heelside turn at about 15". The wash out that comes afterwards is well controlled and the cross-under are smooth. In short, you look great man !

Now, all that has been said is right. Board should be a little longer, and maybe stiffer, at least in the tail. But, seeing these first 15 secs, I also think you have too much difference in angles btw front and rear. You may want to add 5 degs to that rear bindings.

BTW, I ride SPX 45 on some of my soft stuff and I like them very much. Very responsive bindings.

[Dave ESPI]

Increase your rear binding to around 26 degrees. You will eleminate the "squat and take a dumpy dump" and be able to keep your shoulders and hips more in line with the board. A bit more "Cowboy" action with pinching in the nkees and you will be slicing nicely :)

Im a rozzi fan, and Ive been on that board. It really is not the best for carving. Its a big air, soft landing kinda west coast board. Try the SULTAN or '07 PREMIER. you will be lovin life :)

[bobdea]

I don't agree with changing your angles.

you could, I guess, but, for most people in softboots it's more technique. the higher angles you ride the less leverage you have.

the pinching in the knees, unless you're named craig kelley you ought not do that.

same thing in hard boots that Jack wrote a article about can be applied to softies IMO

I echo Jack's statement, get a alpine setup or bigger softy ride.

[BigBump]

I wouldn't change your angles, and wouldn't worry about getting a bigger board or alpine setup if you like what you got. I also agree with bob, don't try to pinch your knees together. All it really does is focuse your weight between your feet rather than keep it distributed along the edge, also it just looks bad IMO.

You've got a very smooth, fluid style which is awesome...

It looked to me like you generally ride with your weight a bit back, this is mainly due to your back leg being compressed much more than your front in that whole video. I would focus on driving that front knee down towards the snow on toeside and really drive your front calf into the highback on heelside. This will help move that weight forward at the start of your turn.

[Dave ESPI]

I wouldn't change your angles, and wouldn't worry about getting a bigger board or alpine setup if you like what you got. I also agree with bob, don't try to pinch your knees together. All it really does is focuse your weight between your feet rather than keep it distributed along the edge, also it just looks bad IMO.

I would focus on driving that front knee down towards the snow on toeside and really drive your front calf into the highback on heelside. This will help move that weight forward at the start of your turn.

I dissagree about the angle change, I agree not to worry about the alpine or bigger board, but your advice about not pinching in defeats your comment about bringing the knee forward and still pressuring the calf muscle into the high back. You can not do both at the same time without some rear leg follow-through and a higher rear foot angle will really focus the transition from edges.

Mrjamie, All I can say is "try" the stance change for a few runs and see how differrent it feels and how you can use your back leg in unison now and really drive both legs and your hips with upper body and eleminate the back foot "rudder" finish to the turns. If you look at teh end of the vide you can see how your back knee is already fighting to turn more forward and your stance wants to go that way as well. FWIW Im really good at pinpointing this sort of thing in riders (be it park or just free riding or other).

[newcarver]

I can carver decent with my A-frame with 32 F 20 R. These angles feel pretty good doing most anything but riding switch. I don't like to have too much difference in my binding angles, but I need at least 8-10 degrees difference even with my hardboots to be comfortable.

[mrjamie]

Uh-huh, some enlightening responses, it's a coach love-fest... mmm! who's right? who's wrong? let's see what I can digest!

Yeah, you're ready for an alpine board. It will open the door for you. There is some good stuff going on there, including some cross-under technique. I think you're to the point where you'll need an alpine board or at least a much longer freeride board to move forward.

At the end of the day I was experimenting with cross-through, and the board would leave the snow in-between each turn. Because there is less pop in the board I have to be more aware of where energy is stored if I want to pull it up and through. Also, I found that keeping the tail on the ground but pulling the nose up and dropping it into each new carve, which is especially easy to do since the tail is so soft, was good practice for cross-through.

Ironically, my first three years of snowboarding more than once per year were ridden out on a Prior 4WD w/ Head SP's & Catek OP's. Never had the fortune to ride with anyone from this board, but there were a few Japanese father-son racing couples who let me tag along their lines!

The only thing that strikes me as not good in your vid is how your front leg is extended on the first heelside turn at about 15". The wash out that comes afterwards is well controlled and the cross-under are smooth. In short, you look great man !

Now, all that has been said is right. Board should be a little longer, and maybe stiffer, at least in the tail. But, seeing these first 15 secs, I also think you have too much difference in angles btw front and rear. You may want to add 5 degs to that rear bindings.

BTW, I ride SPX 45 on some of my soft stuff and I like them very much. Very responsive bindings.

The Demo Rozzy came with The Jones Experience bindings, a package deal for $250 -- after taking them off and restoring my wear-worn SPX 45 the difference was immediate and so exciting. So much more response! I have you all to thank for that suggestion a year and a half ago

I have a natural tendency to crouch over my back foot, which is observable off the board too, like when I'm walking down the street in the middle of a city and think 'Wait, how do I set up a heelside again?' and start squatting then and there.

Less difference between the binding angles -- definitely want to try this, the 20 degrees of difference just felt a little too much for my legs.

Increase your rear binding to around 26 degrees. You will eleminate the "squat and take a dumpy dump" and be able to keep your shoulders and hips more in line with the board. A bit more "Cowboy" action with pinching in the nkees and you will be slicing nicely :)

Im a rozzi fan, and Ive been on that board. It really is not the best for carving. Its a big air, soft landing kinda west coast board. Try the SULTAN or '07 PREMIER. you will be lovin life :)

After some experimenting in the lab (living room) I think the knee pinching will be solved my staying over my forward leg during each 'squat and dump' at the beginning of a turn.

I agree that ~10 degrees is the most difference I want between bindings, and maybe I'll try decreasing the front binding as well.

For my next board, I think I'll wait and see what neversummer does with their rocker/camber lineup for next year! Those board look like they will hold a mean edge and pop well too...but I wonder if they are damp enough?

I wouldn't change your angles, and wouldn't worry about getting a bigger board or alpine setup if you like what you got. I also agree with bob, don't try to pinch your knees together. All it really does is focuse your weight between your feet rather than keep it distributed along the edge, also it just looks bad IMO.

You've got a very smooth, fluid style which is awesome...

It looked to me like you generally ride with your weight a bit back, this is mainly due to your back leg being compressed much more than your front in that whole video. I would focus on driving that front knee down towards the snow on toeside and really drive your front calf into the highback on heelside. This will help move that weight forward at the start of your turn.

Thanks, this post clued me to start squatting randomly and has caused my friends and family to ostracize me whenever we go to public places. But I know that your words are true! Good advice.

The angles do feel a little far apart, degree wise, so while I don't have a plan for what they will be specifically, I will try riding with less of a difference -- ten, fifteen max -- between front and rear.

I dissagree about the angle change, I agree not to worry about the alpine or bigger board, but your advice about not pinching in defeats your comment about bringing the knee forward and still pressuring the calf muscle into the high back. You can not do both at the same time without some rear leg follow-through and a higher rear foot angle will really focus the transition from edges.

Mrjamie, All I can say is "try" the stance change for a few runs and see how differrent it feels and how you can use your back leg in unison now and really drive both legs and your hips with upper body and eleminate the back foot "rudder" finish to the turns. If you look at teh end of the vide you can see how your back knee is already fighting to turn more forward and your stance wants to go that way as well. FWIW Im really good at pinpointing this sort of thing in riders (be it park or just free riding or other).

Indeed! :D Will try riding with back and front more in tune and report back.

why not try 30 30...what do you weigh? your ht. size foot?

so you like Pow and cruisen carvin in softboots...so do I !!!

The snow here in colorado lets 3 straps and an all mt. stick

with a soft flex do both well.

I'm 156lbs (70.7kg), 68.5in (174cm) and US size 12. I enjoy smooth carves on the piste and long walks on snowy spines.

Glad to see another softboot carver...a species even more rare than the powerful yet shy hardbooter. I'm going up to Whistler with the partner for two days during break, so we'll see how the snow there works out.

I can carver decent with my A-frame with 32 F 20 R. These angles feel pretty good doing most anything but riding switch. I don't like to have too much difference in my binding angles, but I need at least 8-10 degrees difference even with my hardboots to be comfortable.

Amen. I'll try out your differentials and see how the ride. :)

[Dr D]

this is possible! This is my setup boots are solamon malamutes

[BigBump]

I dissagree about the angle change, I agree not to worry about the alpine or bigger board, but your advice about not pinching in defeats your comment about bringing the knee forward and still pressuring the calf muscle into the high back. You can not do both at the same time without some rear leg follow-through and a higher rear foot angle will really focus the transition from edges.

Dave, I didn't say anything about moving his knee forward. I thought his moves with his back knee looked fine, just needs to start driving the turn with his front knee.

[Dave ESPI]

Big, sorry, I missinterpreted what you said. Yeah I agree abour shoving the knee forward ( then bring the back knee up and in with it to cause the pinching)

no worries :) as long as the results are whats desires, we all talk differently and its all goooddd.

[Rob Stevens]

Your heelside washes out? No surprise there.

Most of what you're doing concentrates weight on the front foot and pressure on the edge under your front heel.

-You are rotating to the nose almost constantly.

-You have your back knee into your front knee.

-Your angles are high for soft boots.

In the turn beside the camera, all these things conspire to spin you out.

You may use some rotation to anticipate the edge change and new direction, but as you enter the fall line, you should feel like your board and hips / shoulders come back into a straight-running alingment. Concentrate on using your feet and knees to complete the turn and let the board advance under you, until you feel like you're standing over your back leg.

Interestingly, as your legs complete the turn and the board advances under you, you will feel like you've counter-rotated. This is a good feeling as you have allowed the board to complete the turn, but left your torso in a position to anticipate the new turn, rather than having rotated it to the point where you have to come back to start the new turn.

Again, it is this over-rotation that concentrates weight and pressure to the front, making you lose your edge.

Hardboots or soft. High angles or low. Once a person learns rotation, they generally over-apply it. In some circles, you may even be told that counter-rotation is bad. You might look at it this way: You're anticipating the new turn, not countering the old one.

The big benefits will be a much smoother transition and actual heelside edge hold.

[Dave ESPI]

ROB, Thats the best description I've ever read.

AWESOME.

It was something that the AASI examiner was talking about with people in dynamic carves and while I understood what he was wanting us to do, others didn't quite get it.

"Load and unload".///\\\ "Fore and aft".

[bobdea]

yeah, listen to rob.

he's one of the very few here that really knows softbooting.