'just a heads up' on Head Boots with BTS

[jp1]

Since the Original Head pins are 4mm (diameter) and the BTS was designed for the Raichle pin (5mm diameter), I opted to go with (4) Raichle Long Pins. Personally, I feel 1mm of clearance between the Pin and Body ( if you use the Head pins) is excessive. I thought about fabricating a bronze bushing, but decided to just go with the 5mm diameter Raichle Long Pins.

oldacura, it may just be the Best $60. you'll ever spend !

If you do the boot mods along with the BTS , you'll be in Heaven.

[John E]

OK - I'm sold. Now about the springs: I weigh 155 lbs. I'm not an aggressive rider. What springs should I go with upper/lower?

[shawndoggy]

OK - I'm sold. Now about the springs: I weigh 155 lbs. I'm not an aggressive rider. What springs should I go with upper/lower?

Yellow, no question.

[jp1]

oldacura, while I (personally) agree with shawndoggy on the Yellows (top & bottom) I sincerely believe it is a matter of personal preference for each and the only real way is to try them unfortunately. At 155 and non-aggressive, Yellows would be my first attempt without a doubt.

Let us know how much you them

[D.T.]

I'm not sure about this one, I did keep the Head original pin for the lower pin.

This way I did not have to increase the hole.

edit - just saw jp1's post

Since the Head pin is a smaller diameter, I converted to the larger pin. Small pin in large hole equals increased potential for the pin to back out. Not worth it, IMO.

[jp1]

DT, it probably wouldn't 'back out' since the diameter in the boots is the same as the pin, but the excess clearance (1 mm /.039") between the pin and the Lower Bracket would:

A - be a sloppy fit, and create excessive play

B - be a potential for premature wear on the Lower Bracket (Aluminum)

BTS was designed for the 5mm Pin, lube them up and put them in, Be Happy ;)

[John E]

I received the BTS & ordered the long Raichle pins. I was looking at the Head boots. It looks like the existing pins are smaller at one end than the other. I assume that its best to press the Head pins out toward the larger diameter. What did you use to press the pins out? A small punch?

Once this is done, I assume that I should drill the boot shells out to accept the new pins. I should drill out one side to be a slip fit for the smaller diameter of the new pins and a slight interference fit for the larger (knurled) end of the new pins?

[queequeg]

I received the BTS & ordered the long Raichle pins. I was looking at the Head boots. It looks like the existing pins are smaller at one end than the other. I assume that its best to press the Head pins out toward the larger diameter. What did you use to press the pins out? A small punch?

Once this is done, I assume that I should drill the boot shells out to accept the new pins. I should drill out one side to be a slip fit for the smaller diameter of the new pins and a slight interference fit for the larger (knurled) end of the new pins?

I just drilled for the top pin, and left the existing hole at its current diameter, pushing the pin through, and yes - pushed leading with the non-knurled part, leaving the knurled part for last, so that it would grip the plastic tightly once in place.

[Surf Quebec]

I did the same as queequeg.

I used a nail and a hammer to punt the pin out.

[jp1]

oldacura, I used a drift punch, but a nail with the point ground flat works well also.

The original Head pins are 4mm, the Raichle pins are 5mm (diameter) which is .197". I used all 5mm Long Pins from Bomber, and personally think if you leave the stock Head Pins in the bottom, that is too much clearance between the pin and the Lower Bracket. I used a # 10 Drill Bit which is .193" (a little undersize for a snug fit) and has worked fine. Plastics have a tendancy to 'shrink up' around the drill bit giving a snug fit for the pin. Be careful, plastic will want to 'suck' the drill bit in quickly. I'd recommend going real easy (actually holding the drill back from sucking in) from each side.

Good Luck, it'll be well worth it!

[surfinsmiley]

:eek:Yikes... Thanks for the heads up. Much appreciate it.

It"ll be checking mine out tonight...

[John E]

OK - so I got the BTS & looked at installing them yesterday.

The lower pins came out no problem.

It is not clear to me how the upper part of the Head device attaches to the boot cuff. About 1/4" above the release lever, there are two about 2mm shiny spots on the boot cuff plastic. I tried hitting these with a punch thinking they might be the ends of a pin that held the device in place but they are just plastic - they look like ejector pin marks from the plastic mold. I couldn't find any other "pin holes". I removed the liner and there is a place where the steel part of the device protrudes into the inner part of the cuff and there is about a 6mm diameter button that looks like attaches the device to the cuff but there is no means to get ahold of this button.

I'm assuming that the existing device should attach to the cuff the way that the BTS would attach - with a cross pin. But I don't see any evidence of this. What am I missing?

I should probably take a photo that would better show what I'm talking about.

Thanks - John

[Seraph]

OK - so I got the BTS & looked at installing them yesterday.

The lower pins came out no problem.

It is not clear to me how the upper part of the Head device attaches to the boot cuff. About 1/4" above the release lever, there are two about 2mm shiny spots on the boot cuff plastic. I tried hitting these with a punch thinking they might be the ends of a pin that held the device in place but they are just plastic - they look like ejector pin marks from the plastic mold. I couldn't find any other "pin holes". I removed the liner and there is a place where the steel part of the device protrudes into the inner part of the cuff and there is about a 6mm diameter button that looks like attaches the device to the cuff but there is no means to get ahold of this button.

I'm assuming that the existing device should attach to the cuff the way that the BTS would attach - with a cross pin. But I don't see any evidence of this. What am I missing?

I should probably take a photo that would better show what I'm talking about.

Thanks - John

Top part of the Head device, look at the inside of your boot, it's attached to a plate that is hanging on the plastic. loosen up the screws, they come off, then the metal plate will come off.

This has been posted before but for the sake of efficiency:

[John E]

More involved than I thought but I understand the concept. Thanks for the link. Isn't the internet great for getting help from total strangers?

[D.T.]

Had the same exact set-up. The buckle near the ankle buckle will fail in time. No faith in Head boots after that. I'll post a pic later to show you all what I mean.

over 250 days in HSP's w/ BTS and never an issue and I'm a "clydesdale"

[Seraph]

over 250 days in HSP's w/ BTS and never an issue and I'm a "clydesdale"

Here comes the King, here comes the big number 1.....

[big canuck]

Ditto... Clysdale class, lots o days on my Stratus with BTS no problemo.

[John E]

OK - I got the Head device out and carved the lower portion of the boot heel enough to get the lower portion of the BTS to fit in. Tonight I'll work on the upper portion and cuff. I'll use some variation of the template in the YouTube video link.

It appears that on the back of the cuff - almost exactly where one would drill a hole to attach the upper portion of the BTS, there is a little shiny spot in the plastic. I'm not sure that it is in exactly the right place but it seems to have everything but a label that says "drill here to install BTS".

Anyone else seen this or know what I'm referring to?

[jp1]

oldacura', that is where I would drill the top mounting hole for height. I pushed the BTS Upper Case 'in' deeper so I would have the maximum amount of material (plastic) around the hole for more strength. So the hole is actually drilled closer to the centerline of the cuff.

Poor explanation, I hope you understand what I'm trying to say.

I feel drilling the hole exactly where that 'spot' is would not be as strong as if it were deeper (but you don't want the BTS rubbing, causing a bind / friction either if possible).

What I did was, put a (shim).020" feeler gauge between the BTS and the cuff, pushing the BTS in as far as possible at the height of the 'spots' you were referring to. Shined a LED flashlight thru from the other side and believe it or not was able to spot and centerpunch with an automatic centerpunch the precisely where I wanted to locate the top holes.

As I said before, go easy the plastic will want to 'suck' the drill bit in FAST. I started with a small drill first, running the drill at low speed, then worked my way up to the proper diameter. If you do both sides independently, you'll probably end up with one side you'll be happier with than the other. Drill has a tendency to walk when drilling on an angle. Use the best hole to drill to correct size, then with the BTS and 'shim' in place run the drill through the 'good' hole, thru the BTS and out through the other side. The BTS will act as a guide, key is to go SLOW and not let the drill bit 'suck' the drill in. You may actually try holding it back, plastic can be tricky, Good Luck, you'll Lovem.

[D.T.]

It appears that on the back of the cuff - almost exactly where one would drill a hole to attach the upper portion of the BTS, there is a little shiny spot in the plastic. I'm not sure that it is in exactly the right place but it seems to have everything but a label that says "drill here to install BTS".

Anyone else seen this or know what I'm referring to?

OA - I drilled the holes 1/2 a diameter forward of the "shiny spot". I wanted a little more material on the aft side of the pins. At this position I have had no rubbing or binding.

[Surf Quebec]

Same as D.T., I drilled beside the shiny spot to have more material to support the BTS.

[John E]

Great minds think alike. I planned to drill the hole as far forward as possible to have the max amount of material behind the pin.

The upper boss on the BTS is about 12mm in diameter. I was thinking of trying to drill the hole about 7mm to the rear of the recess in the boot cuff. That would give me about 1mm clearance between the boss and the cuff recess. I was thinking of how to locate this position as I cannot drill from the inside out. The video gave me an idea on how to make a gauge to transfer this position to the outside. Can you explain again on how you used an LED flashlight to locate the spot?

When drilling the lower hole, I stepped up 1 drill size at a time to sneak up on the final size. The plastic does want to "suck" the drill. I went very slowly. It would be nice to use the boss in the BTS as a drill bushing to get all 3 holes in line but that would require at least starting the 2nd hole with a 3/16" bit. Maybe I could spot the 2nd hole with the largest bit & then switch to a smaller bit for the pilot hole.

Anyway, I have some time to think this through. I almost always regret rushing things through just to get it done.

[jp1]

oldacura,

Can you explain again on how you used an LED flashlight to locate the spot?

Locate the 'Upper Case' (with a shim for clearance) precisely where you want it. Hold it down tight to the boot by hand and shine a LED flashlight from one side (at the shiny spot) as if to shine it through the exact path the pin/drill will take. Having a third hand may be helpful, but I did it with two. The light will actually show through the plastic on the one side of the cuff, through the center of the Upper Case and locates precisely where you need to drill on the other side. Works even better on the other side as the plastic is now drilled out on that side. Shine light through drilled 'pilot hole' through BTS and the light will locate where opposite hole needs to be drilled.

Measuring will obviously work also, but because of the angle of the 'plastic boss' I had a hard time figuring exactly where the hole would be, so I thought of trying the flashlight and it worked for me.

Maybe I could spot the 2nd hole with the largest bit & then switch to a smaller bit for the pilot hole.

Yes, the ground angle of the drill will help act as a center for the smaller drill bit. Also, I said 'go slow', but that depends on how your drill bit is sharpened and the shape it is in. Sometimes going faster ( and holding back on the drill to keep from 'sucking in' is better, but I wanted to stress the 'suck' plastic will have to anyone not familiar with working with it. Plastic will also have a tendency to 'swell' around the bit. In other words , if you drill a hole with a .193" drill bit, you will not necessarily end up with a .193" diameter hole (it will be undersized) which in this case is a good thing to keep pin 'tight'. Water, or soapy water also acts as a good lubricant/cooling agent when drilling plastic, but we are not dealing with enough material in this case to worry about that, but it can help.

Heck, at this point I hope you have done the 'Head Boot Modifications' shown by Arnaud. If not (check out that video, again) & seriously consider doing them as they WILL optimize the BTS function! You wouldn't put $2000 worth of Koni adjustables, Eibach springs, struts and sway bars on a vehicle that was 'all bound up' would you :D. Go for it, you know you want to........

[John E]

I wouldn't have thought that an LED flashlight would shine through 2 thicknesses of black plastic but I'll give it a try.

I made a drill guide shown in the video. I measured my boot cuff, layed it out on a CAD system (Solidworks) and then cut the profile out of acrylic on a laser engraver. I now need to scribe a line back from the edge at the radius of the upper BTS boss + .020" or so. Then, use the scribed line to align the drill. I can set it up this way and double check with the flashlight method.

I'm surprised how soft the boot plastic is. It carves easily with a sharp knife (lower boot).

By the way, for those trying to get the upper pin as far foward as possible, where is this in relation to the shiny spot on the cuff?

Thanks again. So much info on these forums.

[jp1]

oldacura," I wouldn't have thought that an LED flashlight would shine through 2 thicknesses of black plastic but I'll give it a try."

My boots are Orange, but I didn't think it would work either, but tried it and it did!

.020" was an arbitrary number, clearance is clearance (as long as you have some).

It's tough to put a number on where the pin is in relationship to the 'shiny spot', mine are actually a little different from the inner cuff to the outer cuff. The centerline of the pin is approximately at the very edge of the 'shiny spot', if anything a little 'in' towards the centerline of the cuff.

One thing I have found after doing a couple pair of boots is that they are obviously molded, and the tolerances do not hold true from boot to boot, even in the same pair. This is one of the reasons I like working with the BTS & shim 'in place' rather than working from the 'top' surface of the boot as you will with a fixture. I know the BTS is fully seated to the maximum depth I can get with clearance.