DiveBomber Posted February 11, 2009 Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 Just picked up a board but its insert spacing is to short, need another inch, so I need to add another pair of inserts. Im just not quite sure whether to add them to the front set or rear set. Any thoughts on how to determine what would be best? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobdea Posted February 11, 2009 Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 Just picked up a board but its insert spacing is to short, need another inch, so I need to add another pair of inserts. Im just not quite sure whether to add them to the front set or rear set. Any thoughts on how to determine what would be best? probably means you have the wrong board. this might be personal but of the boards Ive torn out I did the front foot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiveBomber Posted February 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 probably means you have the wrong board.this might be personal but of the boards Ive torn out I did the front foot no, many boards dont allow for 22" stance. you mean you pulled out the front inserts? If so im not sure how that is relative? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b0ardski Posted February 11, 2009 Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 I think it'd depend on the setback. For a wider stance, if theres alot of setback go with the front, if not go with the rear. Better the backseat than over the handlebars. $.02 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philfell Posted February 11, 2009 Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 Measure the stance set back first then go from there. What board is it? 22 inch stance on plates???? Or are you 6'6" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiveBomber Posted February 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 Well thats part of the problem, the set back is only 15. Max stance width is about 20.8, Ideally id like to add a little front and back but to match the 3 hole pattern (its a burton UP168). I can only go one direction. I normally ride a 21.5-22" width I dont want too short of a tail but compared to, 3 other boards of about the same length(but im sure they all have a 25 set back) if I go with inserts added to the rear this will be closer to them. Then again Im thinking about a more centered stance for BX, which would me adding inserts to the front instead. I guess I COULD add to both front and rear and play with it but thats more work:( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobdea Posted February 11, 2009 Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 yeah, sounds like you have the wrong board. if you're big enough to need a stance that big you probably need a bigger board or at least one made for a bigger dude. unless you either are riding a wide stance and are not that big or you are super tall but very skinny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobdea Posted February 11, 2009 Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 how much do you weigh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiveBomber Posted February 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 185.... well naked anyway, I ride all my boards with simillar stance, so its not the board I typcally use a 7deg heel lift, the following yead UP169(which I also, have and is now for sale) has a 25mm set back and a 21.4 max stance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slopetool Posted February 11, 2009 Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 I ride a 23" stance. And I've ran into this problem too. It must mean many boards are not made for guys with big cahones like us. I've had heli-coils installed 1 inch forward and 1 inch behind the insert packs. That helped me get an additional 2 inches I needed so I could ride my boards like a man. lol When I removed my bindings off my Rossi 190, I did notice that the coils were starting to pull out somewhat. I don't own that board anymore. And I think the new owner rode a tighter stance anyway. not a problem. My other board with heli-coils installed is a Volant race 172. I still have it. No sign of pull out. But I don't ride it anymore. Greg @ Hillcrest Sports in Gresham, Oregon did the installation on both boards. It only cost $9 per heli-coil. Next time, I would have high-quality T-bolts done. Ed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr_roboteye Posted February 11, 2009 Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 I ride a 23" stance. And I've ran into this problem too. It must mean many boards are not made for guys with big cahones like us. I've had heli-coils installed 1 inch forward and 1 inch behind the insert packs. That helped me get an additional 2 inches I needed so I could ride my boards like a man. lol When I removed my bindings off my Rossi 190, I did notice that the coils were starting to pull out somewhat. I don't own that board anymore. And I think the new owner rode a tighter stance anyway. not a problem. My other board with heli-coils installed is a Volant race 172. I still have it. No sign of pull out. But I don't ride it anymore. Greg @ Hillcrest Sports in Gresham, Oregon did the installation on both boards. It only cost $9 per heli-coil. Next time, I would have high-quality T-bolts done. Ed I bought that board off Bryan, and it is now in the posession of Jim Callen, in Aspen CO. It was way too soft for my taste. What did you think of it? later, Dave R. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slopetool Posted February 11, 2009 Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 Hi Dave - yeah, I liked the Rossi a lot. It was fun to ride. Pretty forgiving too. I would have liked to keep it. But wondered if I would ride it much more, since I got a new Donek. Had to sacrifice selling it. I hope Jim enjoys it. Overall, the Rossi is a wonderful all-around longboard. Ed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-Sub Posted February 11, 2009 Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 I ride a 23" stance. Ed? Didn't you used to live in Oregon? when did you move? damn...23" stance? wacky how in the world do you add inserts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobdea Posted February 12, 2009 Report Share Posted February 12, 2009 how in the world do you add inserts? drill from the bottom through the base helicoils are a recipe for disaster. even on skis they are a sub par solution. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobdea Posted February 12, 2009 Report Share Posted February 12, 2009 don't you have access to other boards? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KingCrimson Posted February 12, 2009 Report Share Posted February 12, 2009 I think if you watch the CMC video on youtube, you'll see a picture of some ptex with holes cut in it and a countersink in the core with a hole drilled all the way through. I think the hardest part would be cutting the hex(?) pattern of the insert into the bottom of the core. Then Fleaman's repair thread would take you the rest of the way after you get it epoxied in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shred Gruumer Posted February 12, 2009 Report Share Posted February 12, 2009 Well at least I buy custom boards.. I have to have bruce at Coiler move my front foot up at least two inches on anything he makes... maybe its me.. but im in the same boat.. when I do it.. I only move the front since I try to ride center over every board I ride.. lots of the insert patterns put way to much nose for my riding.. I don't like to have to work the board to pressure the nose and extra effort to pressure the nose so I move it up.;. Im ridding the same 22 inches maybe more.. about 54 to 56cm spread.. but all I have now is Coilers but I find I have to do the same thing for old boards as well.. Its a comfort thing and how you ride... and not dictated by the insert pattern.. a lot has to be said about that.. this is such a good question.. Im out of the norm.. Bruce has said that to me many times.. but I always say try it.. some times boards have way too much taper and if you ride the board where the inserts are the nose starts to flutter.... go foward and it all stops... thats what i do... I say just move the front.. that what I did.. If you still have plenty of room in the back then you have the ability to move it back.. or you will have to make the decision to move both front and back the same amount. I drill from top to bottom to avoid topsheet chipping.. I start with a real small Pilot hole then step up the drills then use a tree panning tool to get the right size for the t-nut... RSS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiveBomber Posted February 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2009 Ok well now to the lesser of 2 evils, I picked up some inserts, But Im getting mixed opinions on Helicoiling vs inserts. if I use the inserts, I have to obvioulsy drill the base, and on shop says it will never be any good after that, weather they base weld, or patch it. Helicoiling would be easier, but I hear about the tearing out. Now keep in mind im just adding 2 forward(and rear) inserts for the 3D pattern. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowrider Posted February 12, 2009 Report Share Posted February 12, 2009 Why not create an aluminum plate to widen stance drill and tap plate to accept binding and fasten plate with countersunk holes so they don't interfere with bindings have done this with success. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobdea Posted February 12, 2009 Report Share Posted February 12, 2009 Ok well now to the lesser of 2 evils, I picked up some inserts,But Im getting mixed opinions on Helicoiling vs inserts. if I use the inserts, I have to obvioulsy drill the base, and on shop says it will never be any good after that, weather they base weld, or patch it. Helicoiling would be easier, but I hear about the tearing out. Now keep in mind im just adding 2 forward(and rear) inserts for the 3D pattern. you don't even have to weld them either just fill with epoxy it works but kinda sucks or do what fleaman did in his how to repair a metal coiler thread basically get some ptex flame treat it, epoxy it on and plane it down http://www.bomberonline.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=24155 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martyagt4 Posted February 12, 2009 Report Share Posted February 12, 2009 I just don't know that I'd trust Heli-Coils in material that thin. Well maybe not that thin, but in that application. I do recall seeing t-nuts already ptex'd somewhere... edit: Here >> http://www.svst.com/ItemForm.aspx?item=PTTN7&Category=fd72d15a-0fba-462d-a3bf-b6558c0917f8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiveBomber Posted February 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2009 can I just put the inserts in, cut a patch just to fit the hole, then melt it to blend with the base? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KingCrimson Posted February 12, 2009 Report Share Posted February 12, 2009 It won't be very flat; you'll still have to plane it down somehow. No clue on the bond..can't be better than epoxy though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobdea Posted February 12, 2009 Report Share Posted February 12, 2009 can I just put the inserts in, cut a patch just to fit the hole, then melt it to blend with the base? yeah, that's a weld fleamans solution should work better but the ptexed inserts would be best Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiveBomber Posted February 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2009 Well the inserts that I got, have ptex on them already. But The shop guy was saying it wont accept wax. What if I use the insert to trace out a plug from actual base material then glue the plug right onto the insert, put the insert in with epoxy, then just tap the whole thing till its level, then flame seal it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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