tdifan_2003 Posted January 14, 2009 Report Share Posted January 14, 2009 Hi all, I am posting a few questions about Cateks and probably, this can become an organized thread about these bindings. So, to start with - the tilt calculator on the re-designed Catek page is gone . Next- has anyone received a recent reply from them? Apparently the help zone e-mails are not reaching them, since I have sent at least 5 in the past few weeks. It wasn't the case before. Now, a technical question - has anybody had troubles with stripping the hexes on ANY of the bolts supplied with the OS2s? I have problems with the short ones that affix the power plate to the disc and also with the ones attaching to blocks to the binding. Please report if you had any issues and also, any advises how to fix them. Cheers , Millen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AaronG Posted January 14, 2009 Report Share Posted January 14, 2009 Which ones do you have? OS1 or OS2? For OS1 this might be what you are referring to?? http://www.catek.com/tiltcalculator.htm Not sure if that works for the OS2, usually with the OS2 the bindings came with a little dipstick to set them up with. As for screws, check out the BOL store, Fin just added some screws that are compatible with Cateks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeGogoussier Posted January 14, 2009 Report Share Posted January 14, 2009 I have had no issues with stripping hexes yet on my FR2s (with which I have tinkered a lot) but: I'm extra careful, I use T-handle hex tools, I don't overtighten and I apply blue Loctite everywhere. Here is my Catek question: what purpose do the spacers around the kingpin serve ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
serge Posted January 14, 2009 Report Share Posted January 14, 2009 Hi Millen, funny you should ask about the calculator. It is still up. I was just on it a few minutes ago. http://www.catek.com/tiltcalculator.htm Are you stripping your screws when mounting or un- mounting the screws? This is just a guess, but I think you may be over tightening the screws. For the power plate screws, ( the small one), I screw in both screws, to ensure that they are correctly settled against the power plate and then tighten it by hand. If it takes alot of force to unscrew, they are probably too tight I have the OS2 and the FR2 Pro. Both use the same disc/power plate, and never had any problems. I do occasionally check the screws if they are tight, and they have never gotten loose on the FR2Pro last season and this season.. As for the OS2, I just started in hardboots, so, I can't say. As for the toe/heel block, I don't have a problem. However, The Bomber store have replacement screws for the toe/heel blocks and for the disc. They are 5mm are should prevent stripping. However, I don't think they have 5mm screws for the power plate. http://www.bomberonline.com/store/bindings/accessories.cfm A+ to Bomber in providing Catek parts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twelsch42 Posted January 14, 2009 Report Share Posted January 14, 2009 I think they're supposed to help you not bottom out your kingpin on your board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
serge Posted January 14, 2009 Report Share Posted January 14, 2009 Actually, the OS2 and Fr2 comes with two different length king ping depending of the number of spacers. I can't remember which one to use, but they are in the instructions at the Catek site. On my Fr2, I have 6 degree of heel lift, and 3 degree cant. I use two spacers. I think the spacers is used to prevent the front/back from bottoming out against for higher lift/cant. Keep in mind that you may also need to use the longer tilt screws for high angles. I think Catek strongly recommends that the screws have at least 3 turns The spacers can also be used as risers. Hope this helps... Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kimo Posted January 14, 2009 Report Share Posted January 14, 2009 Any problems I've had with stripping the bolts has been a result of failing to get all the ice out of the bolt head before torqueing it. Then I got a folding type bike tool that had a 6mm, 4mm and a really small (maybe 1mm) allen keys (and a few extra sizes) on it. I use the 1mm as a pick to dig the ice out before trying to turn the bolts. Works really well. Probably cost 5 bucks. Haven't had stripping problems since. I talked to Scott once. I seem to remember that between him and Jeff, one uses the black spacers and one doesn't. I use them just 'cause they come with the bindings, though I have trouble believing they actually do anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kimo Posted January 14, 2009 Report Share Posted January 14, 2009 This one... Works great. Click the picture. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Houghton Posted January 14, 2009 Report Share Posted January 14, 2009 You're right, those spacers prevent the king pin from digging in to the board. You can use one spacer on the short king pin bolt, and one or two spacers on the longer king pin bolt, depending on how much lift and/or height off the board you want to achieve. Read and follow the instructions on the Catek site, you will not strip any fasteners and the bindings will stay tight. And they tell you all the combinations of king pin bolt and spacers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobble Posted January 14, 2009 Report Share Posted January 14, 2009 on one of my toe blocks, the hexes for both screws are stripped. the screws are frozen. i tried penetrating oil... any ideas on how to unfreeze the screws that are stripped? the rest of my cateks screws are okay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kimo Posted January 14, 2009 Report Share Posted January 14, 2009 Maybe that "Grabit" screw recovery tool would work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horseman Posted January 14, 2009 Report Share Posted January 14, 2009 on one of my toe blocks, the hexes for both screws are stripped. the screws are frozen. i tried penetrating oil... any ideas on how to unfreeze the screws that are stripped? the rest of my cateks screws are okay. Happened to me last year. Take the sole plate and toe block off the base. Secure the toe block in a clamp. Grab the sole plate and turn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tdifan_2003 Posted January 14, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2009 Wow, unexpected amount of replies :). You guys are great. SO here are my responses: I have OS2 The stripping happened when I tried to unscrew the bolts (didn't have the feeling i tied them too much, but hey ;) ) Yes, I fount the tilt calculator, but I swear, it's not on the new Catek website :) The Topek tool looks great. I have another combined tool, but the ends of the hexes are kinda different than the Topeak. The look like a little ball at the end and I thin, they have less contact surface with the bolt. Grab it is most likely what I will need. Or any other internal extractor tool. Great Bomber is selling the catek parts. Actually, I found stainless steel bolts for the blocks, but they have phillips instead of hex (one extra tool in the pocket ;)). And lastly - any input from Catek. I am still waiting to hear from them. Thanks again, Millen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Houghton Posted January 14, 2009 Report Share Posted January 14, 2009 get the binding as cold as possible (around here right now outside is colder than the freezer) it will help loosen the bolt (aluminum has a higher coefficient of expansion than steel). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tdifan_2003 Posted January 15, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2009 Yep, I don't thimk it could be any colder here..............in Chicago ;). Still, can't get the damn bolt out . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skidad62 Posted January 15, 2009 Report Share Posted January 15, 2009 Maybe that "Grabit" screw recovery tool would work. Heh heh heh... i have a stripped hex screw in my OS1 right now and I used a screw extractor bit... then the bit broke off in the hex screw!! Now the extractor is stuck & sticks up just above flush (verrry sharp). Can't get it out at all (3 shops have tried too)... the extractor bit is sooo hard I can't even drill it. Next stop is a machine shop to see what they think... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crucible Posted January 15, 2009 Report Share Posted January 15, 2009 I have had the screws on my toe and heel blocks just refuse to come loose, even breaking some hex keys in the process. I finally had to drill out the screws and tap out the threads on a drill press. I changed out the screws with newer versions that I bought from the Mcmaster carr catalog, bought a better hex key set that was designed for bike mechanics and had better leverage, and have been trouble free since. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gecko Posted January 15, 2009 Report Share Posted January 15, 2009 Every summer I remove every screw of my bindings one by one clean the threads with a wire brush, apply a thin coat of clear nail polish to the threads and re-assemble, While it acts in much the same way as blue locktite clear nail polish also helps stop the galling that happens when SS and AL are in constant contact. BTW I learned this trick from a periscope repair tech. For removing the any hex screws on my bindings I only use T handles little "snowboard" tools are only worthwile for tightening Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jp1 Posted January 15, 2009 Report Share Posted January 15, 2009 skidad62, if you have access to the problematic screw from the back, drill it out from there. Being a Maintenance Tech. by trade I deal with my share of damaged fasteners all of the time. Let-Go / Nutbuster penetrating oil is the first thing I do and let it soak into the threads as much as possible. Another thing that works well is 'smacking' fastener with a sharp blow (hammer, hammer & punch) depending on application. The sharp 'rap' shocks the threads and often is enough to allow fastener to be loosened. This works well with flat head allen socket screws that are stripped out also. Tap the stripped (mushroomed) area around the allen hex back down flush to the top of the flathead. If it flattens into the allen opening, all the better. Align an allen wrench to the opening and gently tap it in with a small hammer, often fastener can now be removed. In your case, if you can acess from the back, center punch middle of stripped screw and drill a pilot hole, the closer to the center the better. Often if screw is not all the way engauged into bottom of thread, the threaded hole can act as a guide for the proper sized drill bit. I often use a Center Drill of the Appropiate size whenever possible. They are generally harder and a Center Drill will not flex, like a small diameter drill bit. Drill a pilot hole through until you just 'touch' the broken screw extractor. Go carefully and gently and you will feel when it hits it. Then apply more penetrant and let it work into the threads from the back. Work your way up in diameter until you get to a size where you can use a drift punch and punch the broken extractor out from the back. Then you can continue your broken screw removal. Centering the hole is key, because if centered properly you can often drill out the broken screw until only the threads are left. Determine what size threads you are dealing with and do not exceed the diameter of the proper drill size for that thread size tap. If need be run a tap into the hole to clean it up. 95% of the time with persistance & patience you'll get it, other than that it's off to the machine shop and EDM, Good Luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tdifan_2003 Posted January 15, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2009 I have had the screws on my toe and heel blocks just refuse to come loose, even breaking some hex keys in the process.I finally had to drill out the screws and tap out the threads on a drill press. I changed out the screws with newer versions that I bought from the Mcmaster carr catalog, bought a better hex key set that was designed for bike mechanics and had better leverage, and have been trouble free since. Could you tell me the McMaster part # of the blocks bolts? Probably they would have the short power plates screws as well . Thanks! Millen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tdifan_2003 Posted January 16, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2009 I have had the screws on my toe and heel blocks just refuse to come loose, even breaking some hex keys in the process.I finally had to drill out the screws and tap out the threads on a drill press. I changed out the screws with newer versions that I bought from the Mcmaster carr catalog, bought a better hex key set that was designed for bike mechanics and had better leverage, and have been trouble free since. SO, here's the deal. If only one screw is busted, you are OK. Remove the other one and try to rotate the block (or the plate). This will loosen the thread and you can take the screw out with almost no effort. On the other hand, if both bolts are seized, and hence, the hex strips - than you have an issue . Look at the advise above. Spray it with some sort of a penetrating "buster" spray and I guess, get your extractors ready. the good news is, that once you remove one of the stripped bolts, the other will come out easy. I am still waiting a reply from Catek :(. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bullwings Posted January 16, 2009 Report Share Posted January 16, 2009 I've seen a few of you post that you use loctite (blue or red) for securing your screws (not this thread only - i think i only see one)... IMO, Teflon tape (aka plumber's tape) is superior in all respects. I've never had a problem with with any screws coming loose ever since using teflon tape. -It's not messy and doesn't get all over the place. -You don't have to worry about it eating away at other materials. -You don't have to wait for it to dry or cure -You can use it on the fly and make adjustments on the slope -It still works if your screws get wet with melted snow if you make adjustments on the slope -Did i mention that you can easily make adjustments on the slope? Why use loctite? Anyway, just thought i'd share. Use teflon tape, it's better.<!-- / message --><!-- sig --> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tdifan_2003 Posted January 16, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2009 I've seen a few of you post that you use loctite (blue or red) for securing your screws (not this thread only - i think i only see one)... IMO, Teflon tape (aka plumber's tape) is superior in all respects. I've never had a problem with with any screws coming loose ever since using teflon tape. -It's not messy and doesn't get all over the place. -You don't have to worry about it eating away at other materials. -You don't have to wait for it to dry or cure -You can use it on the fly and make adjustments on the slope -It still works if your screws get wet with melted snow if you make adjustments on the slope -Did i mention that you can easily make adjustments on the slope? Why use loctite? Anyway, just thought i'd share. Use teflon tape, it's better.<!-- / message --><!-- sig --> That's an amazing thread. All the knowledge.......on your screen :). So, teflon tape looks as a great idea. I just bought blue Loctite, but have not used it yet. What do other people think about either one. For the Loctite - do you put it on the screw and mount it immediately, or you wait until it dries out. The only reson for asking a ..........dumb question is, that all the Catek screws come pretreated with something yellow and obviously, they are not mounted. But, I will put a roll of teflon tape in the little pack I keep with me on the slopes. Millen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobble Posted January 16, 2009 Report Share Posted January 16, 2009 SO, here's the deal. If only one screw is busted, you are OK. Remove the other one and try to rotate the block (or the plate). This will loosen the thread and you can take the screw out with almost no effort. On the other hand, if both bolts are seized, and hence, the hex strips - than you have an issue . Look at the advise above. Spray it with some sort of a penetrating "buster" spray and I guess, get your extractors ready. the good news is, that once you remove one of the stripped bolts, the other will come out easy. I am still waiting a reply from Catek :(. what if i drill the flat heads off both screws and use pliers to twist the screws at the threads? anyone tried that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tdifan_2003 Posted January 17, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2009 ..............you could damage the binding plate though. The only thing needed is to loosen the seized bolt.....somehow. The next - preventing it from happening again :D. Millen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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