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Trying to take ankles out of the equation


thebionicman

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I am trying to figure something out. I have had a posterior tibial tendon transfer a couple of years ago. I had to have this done because of a bad accident that resulted in foot drop. Basically I could push my foot down and turn in. I could not lift my foot or turn out.

After the surgery I can now at least hold my foot up and push down. So basically I can push down (toeside no problem) but I can't really lift. This is my left (lead) foot.

If conditions are soft I don't have to many issues but when they aren't soft (a good portion of the time) I have a very hard time on healside turns.

My setup, Prior 169 4WD, Deeluxe Lemans (26), BTS (yellow top, blue bottom), Catek OS1 (50,45). Flat front, about 3 degrees in the rear.

I have tried quite a few different things but I am thinking I need to take the ankle out of the equation, if that is possible.

Any thoughts are greatly appreciated.

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Erik, I have what you described, Foot drop in my right/back foot. I lost a good 20% of the dorsiflexion strength post op in that foot due to a L5 disc issue. I ride with a big heel lift on my back foot and use a bit more forward lean in that boot. I am running the same spring sets are you. Now we may not have the exact same issue but I found my set up works for me.

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No clue if this is of any help to you, but ski boots will let you simply lean against the cuff to get edge pressure, you can probably replicate this with hardboots.

Red springs on your BTS with lots of preload might be your best bet.

Eh, living in the midwest ski boots will suck. Way too unforgiving for unforgiving conditions. Perhaps adjusting your bindings a touch more forward, that way the lateral flex from your knees will be used more than you ankles?

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I suggest you read about "Gilmour bias" or "boot bias".

http://bomberonline.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=183977#post183977

I had problems initiating and holding heelside carves on the hardpack. Offsetting my bindings from the longitudinal axis of my board by only +0,25in and -0,25in (R / F) was an epiphany. That small setup change gave my rear foot the required leverage to initiate and effect the transition to heelside, then hold the edge with both feet. Prior to that I was transitioning to heelside by lifting the toes of my front foot (so I often ended up with too much weight on the front, rear chatter etc).

Hope this helps.

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...After the surgery I can now at least hold my foot up and push down. So basically I can push down (toeside no problem) but I can't really lift. This is my left (lead) foot.

If conditions are soft I don't have to many issues but when they aren't soft (a good portion of the time) I have a very hard time on healside turns...I have tried quite a few different things but I am thinking I need to take the ankle out of the equation, if that is possible.

Any thoughts are greatly appreciated.

IMO ankles are very important, as they allow you to make quick, fine tuning movements to adjust edge angle, manage pressure against the board, and adjust steering angle. Ankles help to control small levers, which give you much higher levels of accuracy and precision (think of a small child learning to color--they start with big, sweeping movements of the whole arm to control the crayon, later they develop smaller, more refined movements of the fingers to stay within the lines). Your ankles work in a similar way to work the board.

I can't say for sure with your medical condition and surgical repair, but it sounds to me like you can still use your ankles to adjust edge angle on the heel edge.

At first it might sound crazy but you can actually push your toes down to engage the heel edge. If you push down, just a little, with your toes, you drive the rear of the boot cuff against your leg shaft. You can then simultaneously press your leg shaft against the boot cuff to tilt the board on the heel edge.

This is what I feel when riding heelside, anyway. I feel the balls of my feet pressing down (opening the ankle joint), not pulling up. I also feel pressure of the shaft of the boot cuff against my lower leg. I can then press back against this pressure with my lower leg to tilt the board heelside.

Sounds wacky, but maybe you'll find that it works for you, too.

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erik -- maybe try taking off the bts off your front foot and see if it helps. that's how i ride. yesterday on the lift i was asking trent about the g-bias and he's got one of his boards set up like that... ask him about it. i was going to try it but now my screws are stuck.

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Toe lift combined with more stiffness in the boot cuff (red spings or no bts) on the front boot should help with your particular issue. Much as Bobby describes on his rear foot. After toe lift then cuff stiffness-foward lean, Gilmour bias may help.

Make your adjustments one at time rather than all at once so you know which adjustment help the most.

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The wider the deck the more your ankle has to be involved. So go narrow....

Use tons of heel lift in the rear and moderate toe lift in the front you can be inbound on your front foot up to 0-2 cm of the edge. Tons of "Gilmour bias" needed as much as possible before boot out. But..... make sure that the internal front heel boot pressure point is not past the edge. You see if you are inbound on that pressure point.. as you lean the board over more... your heel pressure point "lifts" relative to the edge and if you are too far biased.. it actually "Falls". Neutral to a "tiny tiny bit of falling" (better to err on too much I prefer neutral if you can nail it.. not all bindings are adjustable enough to nail it.) is best.

ride your front boot with less forward lean than the rear- use a booster strap in front and make sure your toes are not lifting in the liner on heelside- internally shim if needed.

That should fix it.

________

Buy scale

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