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nose folding breakages


xy9ine

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are they a not-uncommon malady with modern hardware? had a stuff @ moderate speed in a soft pocket on my shiny new wcr yesterday, no big deal, kept merrily riding for the rest of the evening. i was mounting my even shinier new td3's (sweet hardware!) today & noticed a small crease in the topsheet in front of the forward binding, as well as nonexistant camber in the front half of the board. seems i bent the thing. this sucks. is it safe to ride for the time being or is it wall art? it seems to have retained it's stiffness & didn't perform oddly post-incident (granted, i don't have much of a baseline for comparison). are manufacturers at all sympathetic in cases like this? might have been an expensive couple rides...

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metal or standard construction? I wouldn't ride it ever again BTW.

glass. brand new, second ride.

too be safe, i retired the thing & pulled out my ancient option c165 last night - definitely made me realize how far the boards have come. yuck.

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I'm pretty sure Chris will make things right due to the circumstances.

later,

Dave R.

things sound positive from my initial conversation with them. have to ship the deck & await the final word. if all goes well, i may also have the option to upgrade to a metal for a charge (though i'd have to wait a few weeks for the build) - bit of a dilemma.

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Nose breakages are more likely to happen with modern boards than in the early 90's for example. The main reason is that today's boards are comparatively less stiff than the old models. It was almost impossible to break the nose on a Eagle Race or a Logical. Reason 2 is the length of the boards that has increased also, causing more leverage when the nose becomes stuck in holes, or when rider is pressing all his weight on them.

I assume Titanal boards are also more likely to snap noses, but i haven't ever folded a nose on any board so i have no idea...

Nils

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I agree with Nils.

most all my collection is late 90s, and Ive stuffed the noses hard on almost all my boards (non-carvers included) and only seem to have broken one board (it was a GNU) and it was an 04. Its just how some of us ride, and I for one do NOT relish the thought of stuffing the nose ever again and having it split or fold as it was one of the scariest moments in my riding life.

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prior approved the replacement. now i've got a dilemma - get a inventory board (with a minor blem) right away, or wait 3 weeks for a new build glass board, or pay $200 + 3 weeks for a metal. what to do, oh wise ones? (i've never ridden metal, though i'm aware of the glowing reviews).

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When does one put so much pressure on the nose that it folds. I have never come close to being so much on the front of the board that this would occur. Is it by accident when this is occuring or is it a technique during the turn that causes it. I think if you are putting that much unneeded pressure on the nose than you need to think of moving your weight a bit back.

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When does one put so much pressure on the nose that it folds. I have never come close to being so much on the front of the board that this would occur. Is it by accident when this is occuring or is it a technique during the turn that causes it. I think if you are putting that much unneeded pressure on the nose than you need to think of moving your weight a bit back.

Loading the nose is very common. I (and quite a few others I know) have a technique that starts by diving toward the nose to initiate a turn. I have folded a few, but it was usually an unlucky coincidence of timing - diving on the nose and hitting an unexpected soft spot at the same time...

I've broken a lot more boards from impacts with rocks/gates/gapers than I have from loading the nose though...

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I prefer diving as well. Makes for some great faceplants that really "woo" the people on the lift!

I am also becoming familiar with the 'body-neutral' driving the knee's scenario with the board more out in front. Makes transitions super-fast...and probably wrong.

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I prefer diving as well. Makes for some great faceplants that really "woo" the people on the lift!

I am also becoming familiar with the 'body-neutral' driving the knee's scenario with the board more out in front. Makes transitions super-fast...and probably wrong.

I think it is a combination of both Hotbeans. Depending if your setting an uphill edge running across the fall line, or pointing more down the fall line. "Diving" is a great way to enter the turn when the nose of the board is already falling down the fall line, as you are exiting the turn, allowing the board to accelerate past your body in the radius of the turn puts you in a great position to absorb the snap that occurs to help transition the board. I think when you dive into a turn and then don't move back on the board this is probably when too much force ends up damaging more than helping. Both the turn and the equipment. The body is still driving down line while the board is struggling to move across. The two forces act against each other.

I try, when riding, to apply only the pressure needed to complete each section of the turn. I think that is why the shoulders parallel to the slope doesn't fly in my book. Not to mention all of the angulation. I find at times you need to "stretch out near the end of turns to move some of the force off the edge when needed. Just how I've always done it.

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The solution..go stiff!

This is my favorite experience with the new board..Somehow I fell off the front of my Coiler. Yes, fell off the front. All my weight on the nose, I was looking down at it going NONONONONONO! and I don't think the board even flexed more than in a carve.

JJ- this is a sincere question, and I'm not knocking your technique, as it obviously works for you, but have you tried separating your knees and dropping your hips? It really does work. To be honest, it seems like it takes pretty much anything steeper than a shallow blue to "grow out" of the cross over turns that you do. Also, all of your descriptions of your technique seem kinda funky. Carving is choosing how fast you want to go and angling the board accordingly. If you bleed too much speed in one turn, get on the tail more next time or don't crack the edge as much. Lots of overthinking in carving..I used to do it, but there really aren't many elements that you don't just pick up by riding more.

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Oh yeah, I've tried both techniques, and your right seperating the knees adds more pressure to the edge. I have found that it works great for fall line riding. For me it feel like you get trapped in the carve. It puts you at mercy to the board. The turns don't feel as dynamic to me. I just find with a more upright riding style you have more freedom to ride the terrain vs. the fall line. It's almost like the style came out of the race course. I'm not racing, I'm riding the hill or mountain.

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I don't think I ever said it adds more pressure to the edge, and I wouldn't imagine that it would.

If you're going the same speed carving the same radius at the same board angle, it should all be the same.

I think I've got this figured out..when you unweight, your natural inclination is to bring your knees together..think of when you jump, you naturally "close" your knees. You don't have the ability to do so when your knees are jammed together like yours, and you cannot unweight as easily, therefore leaving that "stuck in the carve" feeling. Think about it, your board is decambered and will just stay stuck, but when you take the weight off the board, it recambers and no longer has the tendency to turn..until you reweight the board on the new edge.

In my opinion...The angulated technique is the epitome of dynamic. To each his own.

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I prefer diving as well. Makes for some great faceplants that really "woo" the people on the lift!

I am also becoming familiar with the 'body-neutral' driving the knee's scenario with the board more out in front. Makes transitions super-fast...and probably wrong.

Whoa now killer, making blanket statements like that without the proper info isn't exactly the best idea.

How you ride, and how you transition are personal preferences. I personally take a pretty neutral, somewhat backseat approach to my riding. I see no need to dive forward, especially with the soft snow we have out west. Heck, when racing, loading the tail towards the end of a turn is pretty standard.

And perhaps I missed the breaking news bulletin, but driving ones knees is a pretty commonly accepted method of proper techniqque.

Try and get your facts straight next time.

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You don't have the ability to do so when your knees are jammed together like yours, and you cannot unweight as easily, therefore leaving that "stuck in the carve" feeling.

My knees are not jammed together, they do end up next to each other though. And if you get over the fact that the knees are together and look at the whole picture, from head to toe, the body compresses, like a spring. As I enter a heelside for instance, I rotate or open into the turn with my upper body first which follows to the hip, the lower body follows. All of this occurs simultaneously with the body compressing down with the movement together.

It is a very simple, natural movement. Weighting and unweighting is very easy and you are always in a good balanced position to make adjustments, both up and down, and the ability to move the board forward or backward below you which will move the pressure to where you need it on the edge.

It's just one good way to ride, we are all here to enjoy carving after all. And for some this could be the ticket.

Think about it, your board is decambered and will just stay stuck, but when you take the weight off the board, it recambers and no longer has the tendency to turn..until you reweight the board on the new edge.

The board is never decambered when in contact with the snow. The board decambers at the end of each turn which is used as a springboard to help with quick turn initiation. That is where accelerating the board below you comes into play. It can help to complete a turn early to help tighten the turns and transition early. Its a lot of fun.

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