110/220V

Hi-- I have your messages. I will check and lend a guess.

Years of cumulative mismanagement and hundreds of instances toward fast-tracking of negligible (headlong) projects by councilmen created this. Gross mis-spending (e.g. "Fed Grant D to partially pay for project A, and B when A/B funds were used to 'study' future project C") and lack of transparency (closed-door special sessions) provided this environment for the Chapter 9. It is very difficult to overproject a uniquely beautiful area, and then overbuild to the Aspen/Vail model that could never fit. Each season the 'theme' was revisited and again 'Peer resort tours' enacted at taxpayer expense, and the result remained more of the same: the theme/fascia for each new project changing at whim of every new Developer to come to town in the last 10 years... Most importantly--we the public let those misbehaving cats to their devices while we instead focused our days/eves/seasons on the Eastern Sierra's beauty, right? So. Yes it is sad, but life will go on. Pointing fingers cannot possibly change the facts at this point. Incidentally, the bankruptcy will likely affect the Ski Area in at least some capacity given JMSA and the USFS factors: The MMSA is facing lots of refund and public backlash, potential lawsuit (according to at least a few). Closing JMSA will certainly challenge the public to demand a halt to any land-exchange USFS influence, there are land-use leases and Public Goodwill to consider as well. The MMSA cannot effectively be forced to retain JMSA operations this season, but the alternative does look nasty on many levels. But if you are healthy, enjoy the areas that are viable to you in any case. ??Mountain High: they got SWATCH tour where MMSA could not. You don't have to like the SoCal traffic or sell-out ski days, but ice/hardpack are simply opportunities to learn accountability for your technique, right? If you get the chance to travel to the Sierras or beyond, enjoy the opportunity to have a different kind of (productive) ski-day.

:-\ :-| :-O "I'm waiting for Dolemite..." :-) :-\

Wow..NO one yet from elsinore? Short ans. advice up the 395 would depend on the type of board, age and when you need it...If you are near Mammoth Lakes/June Mtn, I can help. Falkingham in Mammoth Lakes had leased the best machine for this task this fall,,and his staff not only know snow and performance racing, but they also know exactly how to use this machine. Otherwise, I have no advice for lowCal or BigBear area..sorry you will need to ask ski shops in your area for input. Are you recreational carver? Is this for a future amateur-level race? Is this your only Alpin board? These are the questions I would ask before any advice or recommendation. If you only have one board and seek to compete, it would be a good idea to have a slipboard for inspection, and leave the hours of prepration of your race board to the task of gliding limited to the actual racing (post qualify) heats. If you just want a grind, and have about $60-75 to burn your pocket, then look into every shop for a recommendation and quit reading. If you want to texture an overlay of base material from extensive repair, look into every shop for a local recommendation and quit reading. If you are either merely curious or require a technician perspective (or a frame of reference for the process), you might continue, since long advice might help. And if you are patient (if you are new to the stone grind), you may find a kernel to your situation. First...run away from any board/ski shop that lives by the little belt kiosk. This means belt waxing, belt sanding, belt fibertex, etc. Avoid all, and at all cost as the belt/heat integrated will likely slough material from your extruded-base surface... rather than CUT material, which the principal benefit of a stone. Why not the belt sander? Well first because "everyone does it" it is cheap for a reason, and that is the worst reason to do it, yea? Why is the grinder so hard to find? Well you might also expect most ski shops with lots of ski traffic can afford the larger profile diamond combi stone grinders that are auto-fed and will provide a variable sidewall/base edge option as the board exits. Most board-focus shops will simply not invest in this specialized technology for many reasons. Perhaps you have a monetary investment for Alpin equipment, and your board should have required some investment for time thus far as well...or perhaps you just bought a nice board that you intend to keep for seasons or races to come... The good news is that GS translates to Alpin through and through. There is less focus for freecarving or laying old style Euroturn to look fancy free. You have a sequestered open-area with the sole purpose of racing. This is gold, and the intention is much different than carving. Yes, because your starting gates will be tight and technical with pitch, you will be sliding-cutting most turns or burning the base near edges if you are on predominant man made/blown snow.. So the grind is valid, but type of grind must suit the slowest portion of the GS course rather than the prime conditions just opposite the netting for spectators! Otherwise, you are grinding an entirely different snow type at the top (much harder/abrasive), rather than the slowest/problematic portion in the flats. The good news for the shop is that your board will not likely present silly railbusiness and low incident* such as the early season core shot. If this is your only board, you may have taken fine care of it...So far so good,as this is what your ski tech will ask. *If you are concerned to repair a stubby impact at the edge, or your event is two weeks out, I would suggest avoiding the stone grind and simply debur or bring the spot down by skyver/SKS tool designed for this purpose. These are the tool you find in any World cup technician box...they cost lots of money for reason, as well as proficiency to utilise without damaging your Alpin board beyond all reason. Furthermore, if you have a Sunday race this weekend or next, I would advise you to forget about a grind as you will not have enough hours to prepare the board thereafter (break the grind in, run-in the surface with cursory base prep wax, subsequent edge polishing, layers of wax for the cleanliness and then hotboxing for your base layer wax. This takes timmmmmme and days (especially for amateurs), but the payoff is first hand education and trial/error. My point is realistic preparation to suit your intention. In any field of proficiency (Am, Pro, fun) time usually translates to hundreths given the consistency of the field...So unless you are realistic with time to actual preparation, mistaking the base grind as panacea for victory will certainly disappoint. Ok-- if you have lots of time and money to prepare your fine board for upcoming April+ GS races, you might also need to take into account the maker/model. Most older board and many new Alpin board arrive from factory with curse to the camber such as either concavity or convexity for the base. In other words, you have some edgehigh or basehigh warp that will occur during the press (reality of heating and cooling process) that cannot be avoided when producing at volume. There may be luck involved if you have a fairly true post-factory construction... 'True' is rare for boards off the shelf, or some second-hand racer-stock. Often the second-hand board is the best candidate if it arrives from a racer's private quiver. Teams pay lots of money to pick and choose from the lots...so hopefully you have an idea of the many sides of pro and con. If you understand, a current season does not necessarily translate a superior or Faster board, do not chase graphics or trend. If the board is middle level and you are mid level, the fit is satisfactory to the intention. Likewise if the board is the Olympic 2010 stock, and you are "advance intermediate" with emphasis on "intermediate" the board will not make time that your ability, course-eye and proficiency cannot. Does this make sense? If you intend to convert an Alpin board with some curse (a superficial barometer if you have a precision-machined piece of flat bar stock, your friendly ski tech can show you how to use this)... If you are otherwise ready to pay money for a grind, and the board is brand new, do not be confused if the technician refuses the board. They know a bit more than the lay consumer, and they understand true flattening of the board will require lots of time for passes and the end result is considerable edge-material that might have been removed. Many people do not realise this and will accuse the shop of impropriety or negligent damage after the fact...imagine that, yea? This is also important for used purchases (if the board is racer-stock and was "ground once" it may actually have required some amount of passes that the racer is not aware of, despite his or her best intention). If you have doubt, any ski shop should have an edge Bevel Meter so you can determine the life of the remaining edge.. If you already know this, I will refund your five minutes of reading if you are nice...just PM for the rebate.

That motherhvker has surely spoken as clear as day. Now go and ski!

Second the nomination for MMSA to eliminate all powder and install the hardergoodness each morning, but that is what most skiers seek.

youth podium not selling... the goggle is THE selling point.

Kitten dies each time you click the link.

well...snug fit is particularly better than the loose fit. Also there are rare instance for both feet to measure the same. There are also specific range favor with various boot manufacturer, just as custom shoe may vary to factory sizing. Please research as many vendors for boots as possible. And consult your local ski fitter. You may find one 25.0 will compare to 26.5 or the other end, depending on the liner as well as the shell. There are also custom moldable liner not specifi for any boot model, and professional footbed as well. The racer will consider a shell soft compared to a beginner who will consider the same too stiff...You size differential for your feet will not necessary disqualify a 25.0, provided there are not drastic issue with your foot or geometry (toenail growth, excess in narrow or high arch, flat, etc.). What ever your choice of boot will be, you need custom fit to your own needs based upon your intention. Cutting turns instead of sliding has absolutely amazing feeling, and it helps to start with equipment you can feel comfortable with. opinions always carry potential of confusion...as many will favor one brand or fit or feel than another...but although this is a soft end of the spectrum for the hardboot, simple modification such as booster strap, custom footbed and custom fit for liner will translate a productive fit than any wholesale advocacy for bts spring, cants, plate system, custom kessler or indestructible binding for most recreational levels of progression. Start with basics, is the best advice. If the racing is your route, you will obviously need a custom intervention to suit your training. This typically translate to stiff shell other than raichle 123 model. Thank you for your interest and question. regards

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for sale as NEW. You can research the site for additional information of boot. raichle SB 123 size 25.0-25.5 This is a 25.0/25.5 shell with 25.0-27.5 cuff (standard) These are rarely used, and they look as new. Please refer to photo attachments for detail of actual boots. Price $100 as seen not including actual shipping charges to your USPS service location. *Will add (2) booster straps (racer model=3 straps thick) and ship for free to lower 48 US (not including AK) for extra $50USD=Total $150USD for excellent boots with added booster stiffness/strap and lower 48 shipping. ALSO NOTE Due to shipping weight and other carriers (UPS/FedEX) or geography outside USA, you will need to arrange your situation accordingly. PayPal preferred.

All Items are no longer available, sorry.

Red herring.

Sorry only the cuff is avail. at present. There are no boots for sale.

Shipping with premium carriers and expedited service to lower 48 will incur higher shippingrate. Shipping to other countries is permissible with advance notice and minimal email come and go traffic. Shipping to other than lower48 might incur higher rate and delay in transit.

Vintage glove lot 1) Burton CraigKellyAir in black/maroon colorway, with integrated wristguard...and with the long velcro gusset, just like you remember. 2) Sims Kevlar in turquoise and grey (photos next post below) Both gloves in size Men SML...Burt Logos are sharp and gloves are nice and clean, embroidery on the Simms gloves are crisp and clean as well 20USD PayPal includes shipping to lower 48 (confirmation and tracking will be slightly extra). Best offers will be entertained in a couple months or so if still avail.

photo 5 is the jacket tag with plastic hang tag string photo 6 is the speedsuit hang tag Shipping will cost extra depending upon your location, and choice of carrier. Initial payment of cost will preface shipping arrangements, unless you have time to confirm via reply

For Sale: LouisGarneau speedsuit Louis Garneau speedsuit (turq, navy colorway) with matching Louis Garneau Jacket This is an original speedsuit (Lge) with a matching jacket (Med). Suit is barely used: wrist gusset and leg cuff in excellent condition (no pill). There is some wear from storage on Right thigh (very small pill from gloves). I will include a spyder padded undershirt and bottoms with this lot of vintage racing stuff. This is a nice suit if you want the vintage colorway or just a different look without all the Team oriented advertising. Silkscreen is bright and sharp. The suit is very clean, almost as new Plenty of photos included for your benefit 60USD PayPal preferred please.

straps as well...all parts are in unused and undamaged condition. of course these are dated parts for dated model, so there is always the upz..

the cuff is for Right Cuff, in size 23-25 compatible.

extra heels/toes, strap pak oring/bumpers, screws and cuff. It is obvious these are not INTEC parts please

Sold. Thank you for your interest.