hangten247

They are on the Coiler he is ebaying... http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7128575240

Hey, I had to put something over-the-top in there to make sure you were paying attention! Good links from Pat too!

On the table/workbench, you will need some sort of snowboard vise, etc, so you can put the board on it top down to sharpen the base edges or hot wax it, and also top put the board in the "slots" on the vise to do the side edges. Basically, you need something that will allow your board not to mover around when tuning, which will be a frustrating experieince if you aree trying to tune a bord which is not nailed down. As for Irons, like Gumby stated, try and find one without steam holes. What you really want is the oldest school and heaviest electric iron you can possibly find, not one of the modern teflon coated lighweight ones. Think of what June Cleaver would have use to iron Beaver's clothes on "Leave it to Beaver." The teflon coated ones will actually get scratched when they contact the edges too much, and will then drag on the base of the board. Also, the heavy weight irons retain heat and temperature more consistently as there is more metal mass to keep hot by the heating element. The modern irons just lose the heat too quickly which is frustrating. This is the iron to buy:http://www.blackanddeckerappliances.com/product_detail.asp?T1=APP%20F63D I get a sharpie to mark the spot on the dial/lever which melts the wax without smoking, so I can find it everytime. Basically an idiots thermostat. Make sure you are using an approriate temperature wax for the snow conditions, but as a new tuner, universal should work just fine for now. Here's an example of a tuner/edger which will do side and base edges, and will have more increments than you have. now;http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7128171756 Stick with just an edger for now, uintil you get more experience I wouldn't bother with stones. let the angles built into the edger tool do most of the work for you. Although on the other hand some edgers will hold a file or a stone, so you can play with coarse and fine file blades and coarse or fine stones to fine tune your edges. A gouging tool to clean out the gouges a little better for better p-tex adhesion. P-tex to fill in gouges. A metal scraper to scrape the excess p-tex after repairing gouges. A plastic scraper to scrape off the excess wax after applying hotwax, and for scraping crud and excess wax of your bases before hotwaxing. Scotchbrite and nylon brushes to structure the base after scraping excess wax off. Magnifying glass to examine the base structure. Metal brushes may be used to structure the base before waxin, a little over the top for you right now. Base cleaning liquid for removing schmutz and old wax from your bases before repairing base or waxing. A citrus based cleaner is the safest, if ther eis such a thing when dealing with these harsh chemicals. Thick rubbber work gloves to keep the schmutz out of your skin and nailbeds, not to mention protection from cuts from edges tools and metral shavings, as well as keeping your skin from contacting harsh chemicals like your base cleaner. A fan and or a well ventilated area to push fumes from Ptex and flourinated wax fumes and base cleaner fumes away from you rather than inhaling it. On that note, if you wan to be extra safe or over the top, use a really nice mask and also eye protection. Apron. Crappy clothes. Tuning book for reference like "Tuning skis and snowboards for dummies", or something along those lines. Old cardboard boxes and newspapers. (I like to use newspapers on the bench and cardboard sectons on the floor when waxing to make cleanup esasier. Throw away the paper and cardboard rather than the PITA job of cleaning wax of the bench or floor) Crappy boom box that you dont care if you get wax and shiznit splattered on. Small dorm sized fridge for beer. Toaster oven, microwave, and coffeepot.

Enzo, thats the EXACT same Supermodel (size & color/graphic) that I rode with plates. I then traded up for the cap construction Supermodel 174 with the tornado graphic, and then traded up for a newer model year Supermodel 173, which I still have now, which is my out west board or a back up board if I don't want to use my Rossi X VAS Race 167. On the "Supers" I ride with angles just high enough to eliminate toe/heel drag. My "Supers" served me well with plates as my primary ride for 8 years.

Jim, I don't have any pictures, but I rode (and still ride) my Burton Supermodel with hardboots and plates, I have done so since '95, and have had no issues, and I know others who do the same thing. No, you won't get struck down by a bolt of lightning by the carving gods for doing so yourself. I think the only adjustement you may need to do is to take it easy at first until you get used to it as you will have so much more direct control and responsiveness than you had before, you don't want to launch yourself into orbit on your first turn. It will be like getting new high performance low profile tires on your car after riding around on bald all season radials.

You cannot use your existing 3D cant block insert, you will need to swap the 3D cant center out for a 4H center, or get an entire 4H cant to replace it, in addition of course to the 2 4x4 discs you will need. You are only looking to demo a board at this point, trying to use your existing 3D Burton setup, not buy one at this point, correct???

Jim, as stated above, any snowboard shop that sells Burton should have the 4x4 discs you need, however you should be able to pick them up local to you for dirt cheap (or even free) rather than in the classifieds or eBay because for years Burton bindings have been sold with both the 3D 3 hole AND 4x4 4 hole discs included. At the shop I used to work at, we used to keep all the 4x4 discs that were leftover after attaching Burton 3d bindings to Burton 3D boards for customers, and we also kept the extra screws too sometimes. If someone asked me nicely for them,(or if they had a six pack of my favorite cold brewskis under their arm), I'd usually give them away because we did so much Burton volume I had a milk crate or two full of them. If you have to buy them outright, I think the suggested retail for them new is a mere $6.00 each (that's $12 for the pair for you math majors).

I had the original Burton Race Plate step-ins, and rode them one day. (OR I at least tried to). They kept popping out. Big design flaw with regards to the proper spring strength IMO. Took quite a bit of time to navigate from the top of Sugarloaf to the bottom that day, not to mention not being to ride the rest of the day. Biggest POS binding I had or have ever owned. The Burton rep couldn't get me some regular race plates, so I ended up with the Burton rental Race Plates. I never had a problem with any of my Burton "traditional" race plates, other than one of the plastic thingys cracking on the toe bale. More of an inconvenience for that day than anything else, but replaced it as soon as I got home. But based on 2 strikes now with Burton, and having read about other's difficulties with Burton Race Plates, I decided to switch to TD's last year, especially considering I'm 6'3" and 250 LBS. I'm switching over to intecs on my TD's as soon as I get my new boots. The regular TD 1's have served me well so far.

Yup, I'm a part of that 99% too, I took a 1 day road trip to get my boots fitted because there isn't anyone nearly closer to me that can do it with the product that wanted. One of the issues we must deal with when participating in this "niche" sport. ncermak's finger advise is right on. 1-2 fingers is all you want behind your heel when doing the shell fit.

I was at the Starting Gate a few weeks before Christmas trying on new boots. I tried the Head and the Indys. I did like the buckles on the Heads better, but I decided to go with the Indys based on overall comfort and workability. The Heads were a bit more comfy in the toe box, but the boots were not tall enough for me, they deformed for me way too much when leaning forward, and also caused an extremely bad shin bang. (I am 6'3" and 250 LBS). Because I'm getting the Indy's from the Starting Gate, they are going to work with me on the lesser issues the Indys had for me versus the Head. I'm gonna have the toe box ground a little bit, and the width stretched a little bit. The tech stated there was plenty of 'meat' to work with on the shell, no problems with custom fitting, and when the shop buys boots pre-season, they consider what models to buy based on how workable the shells will be for custom fitting. I got the thermo molded innerboots formed for me, and I also use custom footbeds. If you don't have happy feet, your riding will suffer, (not to mention you will be in discomfort). Basically, what I am getting at is as much as we like to wheel and deal, spend the time and money for what I call the 3 part boot "system". 1)Think of the boot itself as the starting point, the first part of the system. Get the one that fits closest to your foot. 2)The second part of the "system" after the Boot itself is a custom footbed. Even the top end boots' stock footbeds are truly crap. Everyones feet are different. You need to support your feet from BELOW as well as from the sides and the top. You'd be amazed at what a decent footbed will do to improve your comfort, and therefore your technique. it will also improve the boot fit too, as it will prevent your feet rom 'mushing' out. If you can't afford the close to $200 for a full cork "Superfeet" brand footbed(or similar), at least start out with their low end $30 trim-to-fit model(or similar). My feet used to SCREAM with hotspots the first hr to 2 hrs of the day. Crappy technique due to severe pain, and I had to literally take off my boots at the bottom of the hill and stomp my feet to get things comfy again. Try that for the first 5 runs of the day. The $30 product cured 90% of my problems, and I went full cork the next year. 3)The 3rd and final part of the boot "system", (and probably the most important) is the reputable bootfitter, who can help you with points 1 and 2. Buy a boot from a reputable shop with in house custom fitting with a reputable boot fitter. Trust his fitting knowledge, don't play 'stump the bootfitter'. Let him shell size you, let him reccomend a shell and a footbed, let him put you in a smaller shell and work it. Do not be afraid! If the bootfitter does not shell fit you, RUN, don't walk out of the store and find somewhere else to go. You may pay a little more tham mail order, but usually the custom fitting is free at the shop you buy the shell from, or ar a greatly reduced price if it needs tons of work. If you must go the mail order route, or have some insider hookup, or just plain get a grest deal, more power to you. But still go to the bootfitter, just expect to pay for the services, it is well worth it. Heck, the bootfitter has to eat too! Heck, I work part time at a ski shop and can get stuff at discount, but unfortunately, no snowboard hard gear. I have no qualms about paying whatever it takes to get a proper boot fit. Because I know if my feet aren't happy, my riding will suck, and all the other money I have spent for gear, clothes, accessories, tickets, accomodations, and transportation to get to the mountain were spent foolishly because the most important part of the puzzle is your feet. (Edited ONLY to correct poor grammar, and you'll probably still find some goofs!)

Here's a link that a guy from scenic and exotic Waterford could appreciate when looking for boots on Deutsche eBay! http://www.i18nguy.com/l10n/shoes.html#adult

I just took you advice and just downloaded AD-Aware, came up with 67 critical items on the sweep, two of the items had in excess of 1500 hits on them, all this from a 2 month old hard drive and running Symantec on the system, and I am no means a download or 'click here' wh*re by any means! My skills are a bit rusty, so I might just dust off the old PC and install a version of Rd Hat Linux I have just for fun till I feel comfy with partitioning etc. Thanks for the other advice also. As for my preference of Mac over PC, I’d have a Mac by now, but one website which is critical for my income and another application which is also important to me are only Windows friendly. Even the guy at the local Apple store said he wouldn’t recommend a Mac for what I want to do, it would just get bogged down with PC anywhere just like the PC I am already using. When I ditch that source of income, I’m buying a Mac. I also need to figure out how to get around the whole ‘right click’ on the mouse that I am so used to.

LMAO, thats the first time I ever heard that one. I'd guess the liftie was referring to the two rules that would apply to you and your son, the 'pregnant' one being tossed out the window so long as the liftie assumed you are both guys!

Bob, would you reccommend getting a 2nd non-important machine to play around with linux first to get the hang of it before partitioning on a primary machine, or just dive right in? I've been toying with the idea of Linux for a while now.

That's an old bike messenger trick: "uglify" the bike (or in this case board). Working in a bike shop in the city you'd see all sorts of fcrazy stuff. The cyclist would aquire one of the best frames out there, and remove all markings and spray it some ugly color. Flat black primer was pretty common too. I even knew one guy to go as far as to have Huffy decals made to replace the stock decals on his Cannondale.

Expensive being a relative term here Gecko, considering the age of his board. When replying, I figure worst case scenario price wise and skill wise. Not everyone on the planet may have a workbench in our basement, be as experienced, talented, or mechanically adept as you or me, not to mention having Yankee thrift built into our genes. I don't assume anyone has the skills or talent to tackle the job correctly the first time without butchering or ruining his board. If he wants to do it himself, I also don't assume he owns a drill, drill bits / countersinking bit /t-nut bit, epoxy, bench, vise, etc. and any other handy man type stuff. Yes, the actual nuts are cheap, but the related stuff to do a nice job may cost some coin right there. If he's going to pay someone at a shop to do it, it could get expensive for the whole job relativly speaking compared to buying a used PJ. The shop rat doesn't work for free. You think someone will t-nut a whole board for $20 bucks? I would for a friend, but not if I owned a shop and was trying to earn a living from a customer. Its been a while since I have had to t-nut a board, but I remember that t-nut starter kit's cost, even at shop cost, was relatively cheap, but not dirnt cheap. For not much more he could buy a PJ these days with a 3D hole pattern. Unless he has the tools and wants to experiment, just find a new used PJ board. And yes I agree the 4H would be the better way to go for binding attachment purposes.

My plan for anti theft would be to buy a custom made board like a Donek, and have a custom made graphic put on it just for me. Something that is possibly the most feminine and or most offensive that I can think of. Basically, who would want to ride it, especially after everyone probably would know it was mine anyways? I was thinking of a very feminine bright cotton candy pink metalflake topskin with alternate graphic images of un-aroused male genitalia, hairy aerolas, slimy calamari, and piles of steaming dog poo. But seriously, nothing will stop a determined thief. I don't trust locks. I don't leave a board unattentded, or out of sight more than 20 feet away when inside the lodge, or I just spend a few bucks on the ski/board check person.

My buddy in norther Vermont is a car mechanic and he and a bunch of his buds up there swear by the Nokians. Blizzaks are great and grippy in the snow, but should only be used for on snow as they wear super fast, and are actually DANGEROUS on dry pavement due to their ultra soft outer compound. After a few winters, the tacky outer compound wears off and it them behaves just like a nice all season performance radial. How about a pair of high performance all seasons and put studs on them? Realisitcally though, how high performance do you need? I'd sacrifice a bit of dry handling for extra snow traction, I'd rather have a bit of extra tire hum and 10% less handling all winter rather than get stuck in a snowbank. You have all wheel drive, right? When I had my Audi 5000 turbo quattro, I had regular all seasons on it and it neve let me down. Not perfect in the snow, but still decent, and as long as I drove conservative in the snow, I had no skidding issues. I miss that car, too bad it had typical German car issues otherwise I'd still own it. Conservative winter driving when the snow did fall saved me from buying a set of winter specific tires. Too many folks in SUV's think they have a license to be an idiot when the snow falls, they drive way too fast in the snow.

Colin, I work in a shop and back when Burton did the transition from 5 hole to 3D, I used to do a ton of T-Nutting of Burton 5 hole boards to convert to 3D, before then, I'd T-Nut to 4-H. If you can find a shop to do it,I think it will be expensive, not to mention I think you'd rip the board to shreds with a T-nut job and Trench Diggers installed. PJ-s are dime a dozen on ebay, best just to check there and pick one up cheap. I just passed on one for sale yesterday, it was a PJ 6.8 and it came with plate bindings. (And it was a 3D model). Opening bid was $45 with no reserve, shipping 40 bucks for a complete board/binding package. I thought the shippping was high so i passed on it, USPS Priority should only cost about 25 to ship a board in the Conti USA. The other alternative would be to again check the bay of "e" for some 5 hole Burton plate bindings, I've seen at least a pair a week for the last month which would work on your board, and I've seen them as low as 10 bucks a pair.

Isn't this year an El Nino year? I forget if it is or not. The last bad El Nino year that I remember was when a friend was in Colorado for the season, back in '90-'91. It was a great snow year for him, but the west coast & east coast had HORRIBLE lack of snow that winter, with hardly any snow and very warm temps. Maybe there's a bit of truth to the global warming concept too. I don't think we've had much snow on an average season year long basis since what we Bostonians call the "Blizzard of '78", only a few good snow years in the 90's. Or maybe it because I'm not a snot nosed 6th grader anymore who is only 4 feet tall where the snow always seemed deep when walking to school. Now I'm a snot nosed 6'3" hardbooter craving some fresh corduroy! But as a kid, it seemed there were a million mom and pop ski "areas" around Boston and up north. But they relied heavily on natural snowfall, and most of those places have dissapeared! For a cool website, check out www.nelsap.org. How many of these closed down places do you New Englanders, New Yorkers, and New Jerseyers remember? My friend spent New Years up in the Burlington VT area, we have another friend up there who always rides at Bolton Valley, for sheer economics. Unfortunately, it rained all weekend there too! He lives in the shadow of Stowe / Mt Mansfield but hasn't ridden there in years. I'm considering buying a pass there myself. (Bolton Valley, that is) They have snowmaking, night skiing, no lift lines, and no attitide, and its also not too far from Jay Peak, so they get decent snowfall too, and I get to crash at my friends for free. We go to Jay once in a while as an alternative to Bolton. I think Jay Peak has a combo pass with Burke also? Most of the areas up there offer a season pass deal at the end of the season for the NEXT season at a considerable discount. I think a pass at Bolton was under 300 bucks for this season when purchased last March. As much as I like variety, I think the best thing to do is pick one mountain and buy a pass as early as possible, and ride there as much as possible. If it wasn't for snowmaking, none of these places would be alive, it allows them to extend the season on both ends, but the penalty is high lift ticket prices. Surely snowmaking is a cost factor, but I cant imagine what liability insurance costs for some of thee places, as well as how much $$ is spent on advertising. It's a bit of a Catch 22, I'll buy a lift ticket, but I'll brown bag a lunch. They hit you at the snack bar for sure. I'd love not to have to pack a lunch, but I'm not gonna pay their snack bar prices, but I'm sure that $$ helps to fund snowmaking too. I echo Jack Michaud statements completely. Early season is way to sketchy on the east coast and doesn't get in gear until Mid January. I think we really only have a 8 to 10 week window at best of decent conditions each season. I don't plan on going anywhere until the 2nd or 3rd week in January as the conditions are usually dissapointing early on, unless there had been a great big dump. Once we are in season, some folks seem to forget how long the season can last up there. I'll keep going into March or April as conditions permit, and stop once I think board damage will be evident due to melt-off. Warmer riding days, softer snow, and less lift lines later in the season! Most folks down here on the Cape forget they own ski equipment until there is a big dump down here like last week. When that happens watch out! Everyone comes out of the woodwork wanting to get their skis tuned up overnight. I always ask, why didn't you plan ahead in September? Oh well, I work at a shop part time, and thats the price i pay to get discounted lift tickets. We got 1 to 2 feet down here last week, I think we need a triple chair on the top of the local landfill!

I didn't know Bono from U2 was a pats fan!

(other side)

and is this the part you are looking for?

Is this the cant plate you have?

I rarely if ever take my bindings off to wax my board. I have never had a board of my own delam due to this in 17 years of me riding, or customer's boards or fleet rental boards in 22 years of working off and on (mostly on) in shops since 1982. We're talking hundreds of boards, including rental boards which get multiple tuneups and hotwaxes in the life of their use. If you are really concerned about it, I would suggest that you find the lowest possible temp on the board that melts wax and minimize the contact in the area around the inserts. I find that most waxing issues stem from too hot an iron. In all my years of experiece, this is the first time I have ever heard this concern before. I was never aware of potential delam issues until I saw this post.