RRrider

quick update: - I have ordered F2 bindings for powder board - I have adjusted my binding angles to 45/25, played with getting close to the edges, and will test this week (storm expected to drop several feet of snow on Mt Bachelor this week) Also, @Deuxdiesel, I did buy very stiff soft boots when I bought this board, and my intention was to use softboots for powder and keep my hard boot setup for carving board. However, the injury/surgery related lack of range of motion in my ankles, made that an extremely painful experience. I gave it the ol' college try of 5 days out, and bailed. So I am hard booting 100% now (hard boots act like a protective cast almost). I'm going to stick with the "too wide" powder board this season to see if I can make it work. If not, next season, armed with the knowledge of this season's experimentation, I'll consider buying a different powder board, where the driver will be waist dimensions to match my boot size/angle preference. thanks all!

I have heard several times over the last few weeks "is that a monoski". Ugh! I smile and start with alpine snowboard, and then educate if the person seems interested.

Wow what great responses. I love this forum. @kibber definitely not what I wanted to hear, but also where my head was going. it's amazing how similar your circumstance was to what mine is. @Corey I am in my garage moving my boots more to the relevant edge right now...I'm also softening up the angles to see how I like it. What I have found is that the answer varies by condition. On smoother predictable surfaces, I like my "normal" taller angles, but in pow or on rough variable terrain, I like the shallower angles. I don't have this issue with my narrower carving board. @barryj well spotted. I do indeed have pre-existing conditions...metal in my ankles, bone spurs, pig ligaments, titanium in various parts of the body. All remnants of my passion for motorcycles and former journeys into gymnastics and martial arts. So i am working around some unique to me issues. But it sounds like you have many of the same issues (sorry!). I'm intrigued by your bias...as i am trying the exact opposite bias...rear foot slided over to heel edge and front foot slided over to toe edge. Theory being as my mondo 26 feet are so small, move the front foot for more leverage driving front knee for heel side and move back foot for more leverage driving rear knee for toe side turn. I suspect this only works with shallower angles. your reverse bias I suspect works better with taller angles. We'll see. after reading your ideas, if what I'm trying now feels off, I'll try your bias, as well as steepen the angles. on my pow board, I have the original TD. on my carving board, I presently have a TD3 sidewinder. I am considering going to F2 bindings for my carving board (and in fact getting a new carving board - but that's a different discussion :). i will look at the F2 for pow board...thanks for the suggestion! of course my journey toward a new carving board make @kibber's suggestion of just getting a different pow board a little bit more challenging...at least for this season. Maybe the budget for replacement boards will grow next season - lol. Thanks guys! really appreciate the excellent feedback and guidance.

So i am falling down the rabbit hole of how to set up bindings (TD with Deeluxe 325 hard boots) on a wide board (26+” waist) - a k2 excavator. I have small feet (mondo 26), and so the board is wider than my feet even at angles of 0 and 0. On my carving board, i like 60/55 but on this board, i can’t get enough leverage to comfortably ride at those angles. so hence the plunge into the rabbit hole. two questions: (1) is it better to have the bindings “centered” on the board (equal distance from edge of board to the closest part of the binding” or is it better to have the front foot closer to the toe side edge and the rear foot closer to the heel side edge so that the front foot has more leverage initiating a heel side turn and the rear foot more leverage initiating a toe side turn? (2) interested in opinions on angles for hard boot on wide powder board. I have found 60/55 doesn’t give me enough leverage. 50/20 is ok for carving in icy conditions (but that’s not the intent of this board) but puts a lot of pressure on my front ankle and makes the board hard to control getting off the lift. I am going to try 45/25 next. It’s a lot of splay but …. TIA for the thoughts and opinions

Thanks! This worked for me (well we’ll see what arrives :).

I'd be in on a group buy as well (TD3).

So now I'm thinking about board length. As I'm middle of range for a 156, and I'm the very bottom of the weight range for the next size up, and I do like to go through moguls, I rejected going for a longer board. But the comments above about longer boards, and especially that my weight range is right in the middle for a 171 really caught my attention. HOw can this be? below is the table from bomber for kessler KST board (it didn't cut and pastes into this HTML editor very well), but it suggests that the 156 and 171 are appropriate for 55Kg - 75KG (or 80KG), but that the in between boards are for heavier people. Can this be true? really? I kind of thought you had to be heavier to ride a longer board. Why would a 168 be for a 65KG person but add a little bit to 171 and suddenly a 55KG person is OK? Shouldn't this be a linear, or at least a continuous, relationship. I don't understand the ups and downs? Does my question make sense? http://bomberonline.3dcartstores.com/Kessler-KST_p_180.html

Thanks! So regarding plates, tell me if I'm misreading this, but what I am taking away from this discussion is that for carving through bumpy ice, the plates really help absorb the chop and keep an edge (i.e. in the ruts on a race course) but the tradeoff is you have less direct feel of the board, and are able to maneuver the board a little less easily on other terrains. Therefore for my more all mountain riding, going without the plates (at least at first) probably makes sense. sounds like given their quality, going Kessler is a no lose proposition (except of course for price and durability :)). It may be a little harder to ride initially as it sounds like the downside of the tremendous carving grip it has, is it is harder to do "slop" (e.g. non carving sliding around, lazy transitions, etc). How about tuning the board? Can any old shop tune these boards, or do you have to be really particular about who touches the board? I'm assuming that waxing and edging is waxing and edging and no special expertise is required? I notice you are riding a much larger board than I am! Do you go through black moguls on a 185? wow! Really appreciate everyone's help. I'm very close to giving Bomber a bit more of my hard earned money!

I ride intec. I like the easy step in. As as for trying without plates first, having never ridden on plates, I wouldn't know how to compare or what I was missing. Or is the feeling, at this board length, the plates won't make much difference? thx!

Looking for some advice here. I noticed during the olympics that the state of carving boards has moved on from when I bought my last board, and I'm considering upgrading. I'm looking for some guidance as to whether or not how I'm thinking about it makes sense. Present Situation: I have a 2006 F2 Silberpfeil with TD3 bindings plus I have a 2000 Prior all mountain (detuned carving) board with TD1 bindings. I'm 5'7" and about 150lbs. Both boards are in the 156 - 158 range (I forget exactly which is which). I have been riding since late 80's, carving on a hard boot set up since early 90's, and am pretty good but by no means expert. I don't live near the mountains, so I tend to do a couple of trips a year. I like to carve, but often ride when there are others about so I tend to make lots of tight turns instead of super high speed GS turns. I also ride with a lot of skiers so I sometimes go anywhere including over the odd mogul or two. But clearly on the carving board, I am optimising for carving. I have no intention of racing; however, I ride a race spec motorcycle and never intend to race motorcycles either :D Potential upgrade: I'm really intrigued by everything I read about the Kessler KST with the plate system and I'm thinking of upgrading my F2 board. For my weight, the bomber website recommend the 156cm board (55-75kg). This smaller length fits my secondary use case of all mountain cruising even if it detracts from high speed carving. My logic for considering the upgrade is that the technology has really changed since 2006, and I believe on the new setup, I'd be able to carve easier, enjoy the improved edge grip and shock absorber effect provided by the plate system (my older knees in particular could enjoy the shock absorption), and yet still be able to do what I presently do on the F2. So what do you think? Make sense? Am I missing something? Should I be thinking about something else? TIA! Sidenote: The other board that has caught my attention is the Donek FC Metal 163, but it seems less different than my F2 and so maybe less worthwhile and maybe not as good as the kessler.

First, a little context: I need to upgrade my boots and am thinking about upgrading my board too. I'm presently run Trench Digger 1 bindings, have a 10 year old prior for my "powder" board, and an F2 race slalom board about 6 years old for my "carving board". both board are about 157's...so they are easy to navigate through moguls but it's harder to catch a carve that approaches EC (at least for me). I'm about 5'8" and 150lbs, and have been boarding since 1988, so I'm OK, can go pretty much anywhere, have pretty good technique, and go about 10 - 15 days per year, but I'm definitely not an expert. Clearly I could survive with my present equipment, but two things are prompting me to consider buying a new board: * I am concerned that my board is too short to really carve, and I should get a longer board. From another post on this forum, I got the impression that a 167 or maybe even a 171 would be better for carving (and of course worse in moguls :) * technology has evolved...a new metal board might be significantly better than what I have, and not just an incremental improvement. and now for my questions: * what board and size would you guys recommend. I'm presently leaning towards the Donec FC Metal 167 * do you agree with my statements above or would you correct some of my belief's and impressions? TIA

yup, seems fixed now! thx

Ahhh! This does explain my experience perfectly. Great for navigating the mountain however...harder to sweeper carves or EC. Hmmm maybe a new board needs to be in my future :)

Were you able to go step by step like I did...when you click on the "details..." link, what happens? Don't you see a URL to CFM? I totally believe you have removed the .CFM files ... this completely explains why these links no longer work. What I also believe is in the HTML for the "what boot is right for my application" README page, there is a link to the .CFM page that no longer exists...if you are following me? I guess, I can do a viewsource, and check for you if you like... EIDT: ok, just did a quick viewsource, and here is at least one reference to a .cfm file that I found:

I haven't been to utah in years, as I was living in Europe, but I'm back now, and I just made my holiday plans to Utah. We're going to try the Canyons, as I've never been there. But I digress, to OP's question: IMO, Snowbird is one of my favorite resorts, period. For more mellow, and also family friendly, I have had great experience across the canyon at Solitude and Brighton - I remember brighton being more board friendly, but that could be rather old data. Park City was fun, but it stands out in my memory more for the restaurants and apres ski activity, and less for the "on mountain" time. I'm hoping the Canyons are good...! I've never heard of Powder Mountain...is that the same as PMCR referred to above?

Awesome! very 9gag like, and totally true!

This is an awesome thread! Which as I'm sitting in the end of summer sun, making plans for my winter snowboarding trips, is getting me really pumped up! Quick question: what impact do you think size of board has here? I am a little guy (5'8" ~150#) and I ride on a 158cm F2 race board. I've heard both (a) it's easier because the board is short and therefore easy to maneuver as well as stiff so it holds it's edge really well and (b) its harder because you want torsional stiffness to hold the edge but longitudinal softness to easily bend into the carving shape...the short boards are too stiff longitudinally, and therefore take a lot more skill and force to bend them enough. I basically believe that with enough skill, equipment is essentially irrelevant (a good rider can ride anything...whether that be a board or a motorcycle) but as I'm only an average rider (on both a board and a motorcycle) I like to make up for my relative lack of skill with optimal equipment thx!

Hi, I'm the punter with the problem. I think you have cfm pages on your site. Let me take you step by step what I did (reproducible in chrome and firefox...I hate safari). 1. http://www.bomberonline.com/ - works fine 2. click store: http://bomberonline.3dcartstores.com/ - works fine 3. click boots: http://bomberonline.3dcartstores.com/Boots-and-Liners_c_22.html - works fine 4. click "what boot is right for my application": https://bomberonline.3dcartstores.com/What-Boot-is-right-for-my-application_ep_49-1.html - works fine 5. click *any* of the "more details" links by the boots listed on this page, and you go to a cfm page. Here is one: https://bomberonline.3dcartstores.com/deeluxe_track_325T.cfm for me this comes up empty (not 404 error). I don't think this is user error, or mac/browser configuration, I think it is the presence of .cfm files (cold fusion) on this site. I haven't bought boots in almost 20 years. They were great, but unfortunately now are essentially unusable, so I need to buy new ones...hopefully ones that work with my old Trench Digger binding which I have on both of my boards...and the steps 1 - 5 is how I navigated the site.... cheers :ride