RRrider

For me. Hard boots, zero rear offset, 60/55, and 21.5 separation of bindings (I’m 5’8” with 31” inseam) was a noticeable improvement. Stable is the clearest word i. An think of. Will try it again tomorrow.

I am going to test this out today. just widened the stance, and am bringing my screwdriver with me for on slope adjustments

Following. i have been thinking about this too.

Side note: I was discussing this with a fellow boarder / physical trainer, and he thinks the plyometric nature of the leg burner off season workout, more so than eccentric or concentric nature of the workout, is the important quality to include in your leg workout to be in shape for the next season.

@nextcarve was recommending this "belt": https://store.insta360.com/product/The_Back_Bar is this what you mean?

wow. this is super cool. The fact that it also works for dirt bike riding, motorcycle riding, reduces my cost concern about just having this entire setup for snowboarding. So I bit the bullet today...and I got the insta360 and this belt. this seems like the lowest logistical hassle way to go to get awesome and useful videos. I just hope I don't take a nasty tumble at speed with all this sh*t attached to me - :0 thanks for the help, folks!

this is super interesting! I'm not sure my 60 year old busted up, post surgery, knees and ankles can handle that high impact leg buster workout...but I love the concept of eccentric being more relevant for offseason training than concentric.

Thanks! Actually, reading some of your posts on setup helped me to decided to get the F2's and focus on cant and lift. It made a big difference! thanks!

100% agree @philw. Clearly in powder, in tight trees, moguls etc, I'm using other tools and techniques. I approached this thread assuming I had already made the decision that carving was the tool I wanted to use, and how to improve my execution of this decision.

I ride with a westslope Pro-180 slim chest pack (https://westslopegear.com/products/pro-180-slim-chest-pack?variant=42961575542956) - l love it...easy access to phone, small so I don't feel it while riding, and it isn't annoying getting on / off chair lifts). Do you think this backpack mount would attach to that? I can see how this might have the lowest logistical challenges. of course changing the angle of the stick when it is behind you doesn't sound easy....

wow. hadn't seen this. I imagine this might be a bit of a bother if one low sides a heel side turn or worse tumbles? let alone getting up the lift - lol! I ride motorcycles too...that may make the "expense" part easier to swallow. I do like the idea of something being easily attached vs having to hold it. helmet isn't a great angle for seeing your body position. Seems like this, backpack attach, or suction cup to board are the optimal answer for video angle with a different set of logistical challenges compared to holding a stick.

this sounds great! I would love to do that! Kind of a powder week this week (OMG! amazing) so let's touch base next week or as spring skiing conditions set in! very nice! you don't even move the stick from one hand to the other! cool! hmmmmmm.

Thanks for the article @pow4ever! it's a nice summary of the key factors. I also like the concept of energy mgmt. Technique puts the forces where they should be (namely over the inside edge at the right time) and muscles allow for controlling and managing the kinetic <-> potential energy transfer. Balls required to keep committed when that board's acceleration surges on a steep firm slope! I need to work on all three (technique, muscles, balls!).

I relate to this statement. I’m struggling to find your question? If it is, are you experiencing the same: yes. if it is how are you approaching this challenge: I’m working on trying to put more input into the board as i carve, by bending my knees more and getting down lower in the middle part of the carve, while angulating the board up and trying to keep my shoulders parallel to slope, to give the edge a more solid hold on the snow. My hope is this causes the board to engage more, bend more, shorten the radius of the carve, and thereby slow me down, allowing me to control my speed without slarving (which is what i do when speed exceeds my comfort level). i would like to use effective radius of the carve to control my speed. But i believe i don’t engage the board enough so im more of a passenger in the carve, and can only do it on certain terrains where i feel comfortable with the speed given to me. Then i slarve. I believe i should be able to adjust to a wider range of terrains with a pencil line carve by adjusting the energy level i put into the board. i am also playing with binding & boot set up plus different boards to see if any of these variables makes it easier for me to do this (and they do…but technique is king…good guys can carve on anything…less good guys need more ideal circumstances…that’s me). i welcome any feedback on this belief of mine / coaching on how to think about this & improve, as there are some really skilled folks in this forum!

Thanks! So my take away: options: (1) make a friend (2) GoPro attached to board, or attached to stationary object that you go by (3) insta360 - attached to selfie stick (or i have seen video from one attached to the rear binding - it was cool as you could see the riders form plus what they were seeking and boarding into) Thoughts: (1) is the cheapest but … (2) is next cheapest as i have a GoPro, but i have found GoPros a bit clunky from trying to record on Motorcycles (3) is the coolest, as the 360 perspective + easy edit on phone capabilities of insta360 are impressive, but i don’t own one so this is an expensive option. thanks!

wow - serious dumping. looks like some folks are gonna have fun!

Not exactly sure how to label this question . But I have found that seeing a video of oneself doing anything athletic is super helpful (and also usually a bit depressing - like for those who ride motorcycles at the track..."I feel like my knee must be just about touching"..."oh, I see, no it isn't!"). I don't have a videographer to scoot along behind/beside/in front of me and take videos on their cell phone, but I'd really like to periodically video myself to note form problems, and then to see if improve. that's the goal. so, the question: what is the easiest (lowest hassle for set up, controls while videoing, and post editing), cheapest (I don't want to do a vlog, just grab a few shots here and there), setup for grabbing video selfies that show your form and technique while actively riding? TIA

wow! Do you take this long sled into moguls or relatively tight trees as well...? yes I am goofy! man...this thread is definitely developing a "new need" for me .

wow! what a beautiful board. No I hadn't seen this before. it's much longer than anything I have ridden before. hmmmmmmm.

quick update: (1) couple days ago: tried 45/25 angles, slight forward setback, and pushed rear foot to upper toe side turn edge and front foot to upper heel side turn edge. I also added the BTS system to my Deeluxe boots to hopefully absorb a bit better (yellow on back, blue on front). It felt OK. I definitely felt some pain in my front ankle when I slammed into uneven terrain. this makes me want to increase the angle closer to my normal 60. And for the first half dozen runs, I was struggling to get my rear knee bent. I got it more under control later in the day, but it was effort. this makes me want to increase the rear angle more as well. (2) for yesterday, made a few more changes: installed new F2 Titanic with cants on F & R, F toe lift and R heel lift, and I decided with new bindings to start out centered on the board with only a very slight negative setback. The F2 bindings replaced my early 1990's TD1 set up. Adjusted angles to 50/37. And yesterday we had hero snow / powder day. OMG. First time that I have ridden the board and not felt any pain. I felt controlled coming off of the lift (just like I do on my normal carving board). I was able to just step in, NP. I was able to drop into the steeps and deeps, again feeling control as opposed to riding it out, absorbing some pain. I was also able to carve without pain on the flats. OK, carving wasn't as good as on the carving board, and the angles aren't my ideal for carving...but this is a powder board, and it felt great in the trees. we are getting dumped on with snow, so I am going to ride a bunch next week on this new set up to ensure it wasn't just a fluke day...but wow what a difference. Thanks. This is an excellent tip, and I do try to do this. the shooting pain normally comes from when I hit uneven terrain creating a jolt, which bends the board at an angle at my ankle...the wider board exacerbates the impact/torque on my ankles....r-squared relationship as compared to my much narrower carving board (which has an 18 waist vs this powder boad which has a 26.5 waist). But of course the wider board floats better.... really appreciate everyone's help and feedback. This forum is great.

this is analogous to motorcycles, IMO. Two approaches seem helpful: (1) self defense...head on a swivel, and assume those around you are not just incompetent but have bad intent, hence the onus is unfortunately on you not to get hit (2) get authorities to advertise to drive up awareness for those who would like to be safe but don't know better (Alan's point). CA does this on their road safety signs, and as Alan mentions, Mt Bachelor has lots of safety signage around.

wow! I'm 5'8" 155# 26 boot. those are some steep angles...excellent! and your boards are definitely longer. the coiler VSR AM does look attractive....

ok, as some of you know from another thread, I'm going down all the adjustments to see if I can't make my present powder board (154 K2 Excavator, with 26.5 waist) work. but I'm struggling, and so in parallel I want to start researching my other options of getting a powder board that fits. Present carving board: FC Metal Donek, 163, 18 waist, 60/55 angles. great in almost all conditions but sinks in deep snow and gets caught up in moguls (as I go allover the mountain). I'm about 5' 8", 155lbs. Happy with board. But on days when the snow is deep: I just need to have a board that floats better...less of sinker. My boot size is mondo 26, and because of ankle surgeries, I can't use soft boots nor am I comfortable with shallow angles. although still experimenting, I'm presently capable (although unfcomfortable and less capable) at 45/ 30 and 50/37. The waist suggested by my 37 degree mondo 26 boot is about 22cm - quite a bit less than the 26.5 I presently have (harder to manuever and lots of pain when it gets slammed). So I'm thinking the ideal powder board for me is ~154-156; waist of 22 (maybe 23?), with a larger shovel in front to catch snow, and stiff in the middle to carve when the conditions/terrain changes. does this sound right? any off the shelf board like this? if not which custom board seems to be the closes start? TIA

hahaha. I just removed the OEM Deeluxe forward lean device and installed BTS (blue front; yellow rear). Will give the new kit it's maiden voyage tomorrow!

@barryj indeed, the side torque is exactly the battle I’m fighting. Lower the angle the more shooting pain i experience…. Trying to tweak other things (there are so many variables to mess around with), but due to the pain, i only use the powder board now if i really don’t believe my carving board can stay afloat in the steep & deep after a storm.