Jack M

The rule here in Maine is if it snows in Portland and/or Boston, the slopes will be crowded - regardless of whether the storm hit or missed the mountains. Conversely, when it's 60 degrees in the cities and all the snow is rapidly melting or gone, and crocuses are popping up, the daytrippers just stop thinking about skiing and stop going.

Sugarloaf has had over 10 FEET of snow in the past 5 weeks. Based on my front yard, I believe it. Here's my 3 year old *standing* in the hole I dug, which is up to my waist and isn't even down to the grass.

In the morning we're going to change Ron's BOL name to "quads of steel".

Right, and you could do all that on a BX board. You don't <i>need</i> a full freestyle shape to do any of that. (and all freeride boards are basically a full frestyle shape - just different construction) Right, swing weight doesn't matter <i>as</i> much to carvers, but that wasn't my point... Yes, but also freeriders - people who want to both carve and not carve, in softboots. A shorter board with low swing weight is more important to them in the trees and bumps and just for general maneuverability. But if they could have an extra 5cm of edge length with a BX board of the same overall length, it would carve better and handle more speed. That's why I believe most softbooters who mostly just cruise the mountain should really be on BX boards. As for why race boards have square tails, well, it's just about maximizing edge length for more speed and edge hold. Race/freecarve board tails are usually 5cm worth of non-running length. Race/fc board noses are usually 15cm. You could make a twin tip race board, but it would be 10cm longer for no real reason. I'd rather ride a 170 than a 180 if the 180 isn't going to be any faster or more stable than the 170. Like I said, having a twin tipped board is only <i>necessary</i> for logging lots of time riding fakie and for launching/landing big airs switch. For casual fakie antics, a BX style tail is plenty. And behold and lo, that's what is on the all-mtn carvers like the Axis and 4x4, etc.

The slots are meant to be parallel to the board to give you some extra stance width adjustment. You can adjust the positioning of your foot with respect to the width of the board by moving the toe/heel blocks towards either edge.

90 degrees is inline with the long axis of the board. 0 degrees is straight across the board.

...is one that most riders should ask themselves - "why does my board have a huge upturned tail?" Unless you're riding fakie 40% of the time or you spend <i>a lot</i> of time in the park/pipe, you don't need that giant tail adding to the swing weight of your board. I think most snowboarders would be better served on a BX style board than any current freeride board.

By all means, try out your new board. An Axis isn't prohibitively different from a freeride board, aside from forcing you to ride higher angles. Also, be sure to check out the Welcome Center here. And don't be afraid to buy boots here. The Bomber folks are pros at getting you the right fit via long-distance!

Sure, the board is predictable, it's just very turny, imo. If you get lazy and let it run too fast, your next carve is going to happen very quickly. Whereas on the 180 you can just let it cruise. I think I'm a long board guy in general. I don't think I'll ever own a board shorter than 170 again.

Thanks guys. Haven't seen it yet. I Just renewed my subscription. I only answered the "why carve?" question.

Here it is! Warning to our dial-up users: clicking on some of the images will bring you to a large image file. Large versions were scaled to be either 1024 wide or 768 tall, or both. Enjoy!

Here it is! Warning to our dial-up users: clicking on some of the images will bring you to a large image file. Large versions were scaled to be either 1024 wide or 768 tall, or both. Here is Part I in case you missed it. Enjoy!

Just wondering how many of our readers are accessing the site via a slow connection, and if I should use smaller pictures in articles like the SES article.

Jetta vs. Jetta both at 50mph head on does <b>NOT</b> equal Jetta at 100mph vs. huge stationary block of concrete. The latter would cause more dammage to the car. This was what I was originally trying to say. Jetta vs. Jetta both at 50mph <b>DOES</b> equal Jetta at 100mph vs. freestanding Jetta at 0mph, like Skywalker said. Again, this is what I was originally saying - "the 2-car accident would be not quite as bad due to crumple zones." This is why they build crumple zones into cars. Back to <b>the original question</b>: "But what if the same car hit an immovable solid brick wall at the same speed?" This scenario (car at 50mph vs wall) involves half the momentum of two cars at 50mph. HOWEVER, because the wall is infinitely more massive than the car and does not appreciably crumple upon impact, the dammage to the car will be more than half as bad. I'll take my seat at the head of the class now. ;) Now, when you add centrifugal force to the equation... :D

Car vs. Car, 50mph: the destruction of the two cars will absorb some of the energy of the impact, cushioning each other and the occupants by some ammount. Edit: this would be equivalent to parking car A without the e-brake, and driving car B into the front of car A at 100mph. I'd rather do that than drive into the wall at 100mph.

oh yeah, I read that wrong, silly me. The car hitting the wall would have to be travelling 100mph to equal the dammage of a head on collision of 2 cars going 50mph. Although the 2-car accident would be not quite as bad due to crumple zones.

If you're talking two identical cars, then the dammage would theoretically be just as extensive to each. Otherwise it depends on the construction of each vehicle (crumple zones, ladder frame vs. unibody, etc) But hitting a brick wall or concrete bridge abuttment would be worse because they don't have crumple zones!

Do you own Birkenstocks? They're required attire in Burlington. It would be good to work up a dreadlock or two as well. :p

Awesome. Keep us posted. My son turns 3 in a month. I'm so tempted to start him on a board (and I'm sure I'll be just as much of a sap) but I fear the inevitable downhill edge catch.

Sorry dude. I was there with some good old friends on a "guy's weekend". The pitch of the weekend was Flume. Pure chalk. My nipples are getting hard just thinking about it.

google news search rules. http://www.thedenverchannel.com/news/4258437/detail.html

If your father-in-law isn't carving his skis, he will last longer. It all depends on who makes more/faster/tighter carves. Typically, this is the alpine snowboarder, but a good skier who actually carves will experience the same thing. Using Nate's calcualtors, I see that I am pulling 2 g's at times. Ask your father-in-law how many times he can squat twice his body weight.

Do yourself a favor and stay on-mountain. They have good package deals, and you can park your car and forget it. If it's just the two of you, check out the Sugarloaf Inn or the Grand Summit Hotel. Best carving runs - anything black or blue that is groomed. My fav's are Spillway, Sluice, Narrow Guage, Competition Hill, Hayburner, Wedge, Gondola Line, Widowmaker/Flume... too many to list really. Or if you're looking for mellow/intermediate stuff, the Bucksaw area is nice and uncrowded. Take a lesson from Erik Beckman while you're there!

I tried this board at the SES and had a great time on it, but couldn't make a critical assessment of it on all that sweet hero snow. At that time I was thinking the board turned much tighter than the rumored 22m equivalent sidecut radius. Out there I estimated 15 or 16m. Got a chance to ride it this weekend at Sugarloaf - wow. On the harder snow it rode much longer, it's probably 17 or 18m. Certainly not 22m, but longer than the 15m board I used to have (and loved). Mike only gives his estimates of what the equivalent radius is, because it's not a radial sidecut. If you like armpit dragging down your favorite steeps at mach schnell, I recommend taking a test drive. I wouldn't have thought a 180 could go so fast, but the board never hinted at instability, and edge hold was superb. The board is lively and if you space out it can launch you. But you can channel that energy as well. That's not to say it demands constant attention like the 170, you can definitely relax on it and just lean it over if you need a break. Also the 180 length was quite maneuverable while not carving. I was even inspired to take it down a steep glade. Once I was in there it was a bit much to handle, but just the fact that I even tried tells you something. Anyway, I don't want to blather on about it. If you like fast boards, put this one on your list.

http://www.bomberonline.com/articles/SES05.cfm