Beckmann AG

Post a toe-side view photo of you on your board, on the carpet, in shorts. Also post a photo of your shin with the affected area outlined. Sounds like you are hyper-flexing the boot, folding the tongue into your shin.

If you want to build a boot that accommodates all stance configurations, regardless of utility, and sell boots on a periodic basis, it's not a flaw; rather, a design consideration. If a concern wants to build a boot for a niche market, functionality based on biomechanics is the easy part. The hard part is designing for end users who wish to ride in a manner that is largely ignorant of such things. Ultimately, the latter criteria will trump the former in order to remain commercially viable, and you will be left with what you currently have. To be a better rider, one needs better boots. Better boots, however, require a better rider. More accessible than you might think...

Incidentally, the last generation 158, (sometime after 04) is dimensionally different than both the original, and the first round of reissues. Original shape rides better.

Rebound your feet without disturbing your core.

It's no secret: The SQ is fond of electrical components. Your source may have employed hyperbole to make that point.

The damper cartridge from the old Amp Research fork might do the trick. At least to test the notion. http://www.bikepro.com/products/amp/fork.html Visible in the left photo. The cartridges were not that expensive back in the day.

It really isn't as simple as recommending a particular product. Much has to do with the skill of the fabricator. That said, I think the component systems, where you have an independent contoured section supported by posting made of fairly dense foam, is more 'tunable' in the hands of a competent tech. Monolithic systems are certainly expedient, and while expediency may work in many cases, it does not seem suited for your application. Hopefully you've identified your problem. I would suggest experimenting on the Korks, first reducing the arch fill, and then adding posting at the forefoot until you feel 'solid'. Then you can present your creation to a qualified technician and say, 'build me a clean version of this'.

Theme from 007-A Quantum Of Solace Jack White, Alicia Keys 'Another Way To Die'

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Any chance that the throttle response has changed, and your inputs have not?

As in what brand/process?Or characteristics? In short, a better footbed should match the plantar contour of your foot. It should also account for the independent mobility of the bones of your foot, to the extent that when those bones are under 'compression' (E.G., load), the foot does not significantly 'collapse' either medially or laterally. Ideally then, you have quieted reflexive muscle activity, while providing more feedback by way of additional data collection points/reduced muscle tension. And they should be 'transparent'. From the look of things, you have a reasonably typical foot, which suggests that you should have somewhere between .125-.375" of posting material under your first metatarsal head, as that seems to be common. (Granted, this is just a guess). As is, it appears that most of your 'support' is derived from the arch.

http://www.cosmeticsurgery.com/research/cosmetic-surgery/Calf-Augmentation/ Don't know what you're on about... If you have access to a stationary belt sander or drum grinder, you can gradually undercut the arch area. Remove material more or less in parallel with the topsheet, but from the underside. It may not take much to make a difference. Better footbeds would be advised; but then, what are your options? As stands, you can futz about with the Korks until you verify a fix. If I read correctly, the flex problem was with the UPZ, whereas the foam buildup is on the DEEluxe? Cuff buckle tension wouldn't really make much difference, as the bulk (or lack thereof) at the back of the lower leg would determine if the tibia was pushed forward or pulled back.

What you have here is a connective tissue/fascia inflammation problem. More likely than not, you have too much material in the arch contour of your Korks. As you ride, that part of your foot is gradually stretched under load, and when you remove/reduce the pressure, (as in a lift ride) the stretched area, now inflamed a bit, contracts. This is similar to the mechanism associated with the development of the classic Morton's neuritis/neuroma, where the pain is associated with removal of the foot from the compressive confines of the boot. The length of the shell probably doesn't figure into this, but it's probably not helping. Earlier you cited a case of 'poultry leg'. If you put a svelte calf in a typical boot, the lower leg will be pulled 'back of center' against the spoiler when the boot is buckled. This makes dorsiflexion rather difficult, more so if the plastic is stiff. An extra spoiler wedge or two should alleviate this problem. Or perhaps some variant of 'male enhancement' surgery? The Intuition liners with the extra wrap on the upper part may help in this regard. On the other hand, the more supportive Flo liners may work just fine. In light of additional information, I'll retract this for the time being.

Get a plate. Then she'll be right. Oops, wrong thread. With your bare feet in the empty shells, are you hitting plastic anywhere? Is there any hint of impending cramping if you are wearing the boots while sitting around? Or while simply standing indoors? Standing indoors attached to your board? If none of the above, care to describe the typical circumstance whereby your feet express their annoyance? Did you demo this boot, or is the stiffness conjecture just that, based on an indoor 'flex test'?Given that perceived stiffness is an issue, I'll hazard a guess that part of your foot pain is derived from binding setup, and possibly your preferred 'style' of riding. Could be part of the problem. Assuming these were vacuum formed, this process does not work well for all foot conformations.Can you post a photo of your feet, and of the Korks? Sometimes, despite all efforts, a shell just won't feel right. Like a round peg in an oblong hole. If the UPZ intuitively feels like the right boot, it probably is the right boot. Stiffer plastic may seem daunting, but at least your sense of touch should improve. Besides, you'll have gummy toe and heel blocks, and no doubt 'engineered flex' in your bindings. Consider the expense of your current shells a relatively cheap investment in your education. New boots may seem like a foolish expense, but you can always get more money. Time, on the other hand, not so much.

Not that odd... 'Handedness' and 'footedness' has little to do with it.

A drill press, careful locating, and a short shank, three flute, center cutting, single end milling bit should core it out nicely. Then weasel out the thread remnants with a pick tool. If the screw is cross threaded, you will need to do a thread repair anyway, and a milling bit of the correct size is a good way to core out the damage to full depth. A screw extractor of that size may not work too well, as the screw has apparently been twisted off. And if you break the extractor....

Yes. No, not if you wish to learn how to actually use a snowboard. If your interest runs toward two-footed saucer sledding, then it's OK. You tend to see a 'toggle' through the transition, followed by wash and correction.In side by side comparisons, assuming one takes the time to set the gear up properly, the rider shows more confidence and ability on the traditional base. Maybe a Pico-Schtubby Safari?

If your feet begin to hurt while sitting at the keyboard, you can probably rule out binding configuration as the origin of the problem. Circulation issues can derive from several areas. If your toes are tingling while you are sitting down, there is a good possibility that blood flow over the top of your foot is affected. Relief through reduction of buckle tension indicates that the contour of the top of your foot, (instep area) is not well matched to the instep contour of the boot shell/liner. Sometimes the problem area is directly over the distal end of the first metatarsal bone (that big sucker connected to your first toe), but usually not. And that would be different type of pain. Assuming you tried your boots on before you purchased them, this would explain in part why you bought a shell one size larger than would be considered ideal. Pull your aggravated foot out of the boot and look for the big red blotch on the instep. This represents the area where the liner (easier) or shell (harder) needs shaping. Also, there is a fleshy area ahead of the outside anklebone. If there is a lump in the liner, or excess material in this area, it will generate some of that 'pulled muscle' pain, more so with the boot buckled. Your emphasis on the top of the foot sort of rules out foot support, or lack thereof, as a problem. The average foot, when 'properly' supported, gets a little taller, and a little shorter. If you had too much stuff under your arch, that, combined with compression of the instep, would give you a nastier cramping situation, dominated by pain in the arch area.

....has a biting edge to it. Kind of like magnetraction. Or it's close relative, the tomato knife. My response was in part an homage to the recently departed Leslie Nielsen. So you figured wrong. The plane (OP) was already falling out of the sky, so there was no need for me to pump more flak into the air. No need to get peeved at me for 'answering' your apparent query. Sorry for the misunderstanding. In the future, I shall aim to be more presumptuous, and avoid attempts at humor.

You know better than that. Somewhere in that post is a dubble entender.

The low hanging fruit may not be worth picking. Re: tea; honey, lemon, sugar?

Canting and lifting really shouldn't be used to facilitate a wider stance. Canting should be used to affect joint mobility, while lifting should be used (in part) to affect weight distribution and leverage ratios from one edge to the other. Your ideal stance should provide an ideal load bearing structure without compromising finesse. Front foot biasing predisposes one to spin, especially on the heelside. I'll send you something later this evening regarding setup.

http://www.bomberonline.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=30669

Your dexterity is visibly impacted by your gear configuration. Relatively flat courses make this more apparent, as there is often insufficient momentum to simply 'lean into it'. For the type of course you are running, you don't need a whole lot of monkey motion, but it would help if turning inputs originated from your feet and not your torso. It does appear that you are standing with weight biased towards your front foot. I find it interesting that you are using fairly disparate binding configurations between two boards. That would imply that your bones stack up differently based on board length and color of topsheet...?

This is a common issue.Install your feet in the boots, and buckle up. Particularly that third buckle. Wait until they begin to 'heat up', then wait another 5 minutes or so. Pull your feet out, strip off the socks, and look for the red patch over the instep. Circle this with a ball point pen of your preference. Pull the liner from the shell, put your bare foot in the liner, and translate the outline on your instep to the superior aspect of the boot tongue. From your photos, it appears that tongue is attached with velcro, so detach the tongue; beg, borrow, or 'unauthorized take' a drum sander, and thin out the plastic to provide room for that bony protrusion and surrounding tissue. Thin a little at a time, buckling your foot back in the complete boot each time until contact over the top of your foot is uniform. Avoid abrading the stitching and your fingertips. Wear eye protection.