emorris

I love my Smith Maze. It's super light and there are no loose pieces (plugs for vent holes) to lose.

+1 on trying on. It really has to fit right to be effective. It should be snug, but not tight. And comfortable. If it is uncomfortable that will be a reason to not wear it. I started wearing my helmet to ensure that my kids had no excuses to not wear theirs. Now I will not go out on the snow without the helmet. Also, after a serious impact, it should be replaced. Probably should be replaced after a couple of seasons on general principle as well. I know that kids car seats have an expiration date. I think it is due to the degradation of plastic over time. I just got a Smith MAZE helmet. I wanted something with a smooth side so I could stick a camera mount to it. I like the helmet more than my Giro Fuse, which I liked at the time. Fit and comfort first. Then looks.

I want to get back on a board as soon as possible. I guess that as soon as I can get into the boot and put it in a binding without pain, I will back out there. Holding BMES later in march gives me a better chance of being there. But I like that story. Goes with what I was thinking.

My cast is supposed to come off on March second. And the dock said two weeks of PT. So later in march would be better for me. However, i am not sure how it will feel. I hope to be ready for the end of March. But if it turns out to be earlier, I'll do next year.

that's really JUST two 360's. It's new math!

I would think weight would be an issue. But I think that finding a place for all the parts would be hard. I am in the process of designing a completely new binding right now. Cannot really get into details right now. But as you add features, it weighs more, costs more to make, and is is harder to set up correctly. With this already being a tiny niche market with at least three binding manufacturers, it does not seem likely that another player is advisable. At this point I am just designing because the idea struck me. Now I have no choice but to draw it. And I have time right now. :eek:

I was pondering also. Was the SI heel a factor in my break? And would the side play in the TD3 and Sidewinders have saved the ankle? I doubt it. I feel that the SI interface is quite bit more rigid than the toe buckle arrangement. The bails, no matter how thick, seem to have more spring than the pins and bracket of the SI. But my feeling is that no matter how much flex and spring exists in any system, at the end of the day (or end of the travel) the end result would have been the same. There only exists so my range of motion in any system and when that is reached, the weakest link will break. I think that my upper buckles were too loose. I had to walk/hobble several hundred feet to where Ski patrol was congregating to get their attention and a ride down. I was only able to do this by really cranking down on the upper buckles. Had these buckles been tighter would I have broken the bone somewhere else? I think that it is likely. I'm not heavy (135 pounds) but I was moving pretty fast. So the amount of energy was pretty high. These are just seat of the pants observations from a pretty fresh start in hard boots. I think that the only thing that would prevent this would be a releasing binding. But ski binding designs have the luxury of pretty much unlimited overall length. For us, overhang is a problem. No where to put the mechanics.

duck can do it. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oOM1SStNVmg

the driver is wearing a jacket, tie, top coat and fedora! Reminds me of old manuals where the machinist is wearing a neck tie under his apron.

That is exactly what I was thinking on the sled ride down to the ski patrol hut! I hope that's all you have! This cast really sucks! Really inconvenient.

At least until you stop taking anything with Codine! Not too good with large doses of Ibuprofen either.

I figured that the stress from a complete cold turkey withdrawal might do harm (if not to me, then to those around me!) Hoping to be back on a board in three weeks. I have two new (to me) boards since the break!

In hard boots. Un hooked the rear binding because it hurt like crazy. Then I treid to step in again but it hurt too much. It turned out to be a broken medial malleolus, the inside of the ankle. I am in a hard cast and it comes off on March 2nd. The doc said two weeks of PT. It has pretty much stopped hurting. The first couple of days to a week it really helped to keep it up as high as possible to stop the swelling. If its broken, caffeine and nicotine slow healing by constricting blood vessels. I was told to take 800 mg of Ibuprofen every 6 hours to reduce swelling. If you can you should get it looked at. How is it feeling now? Also look at this thread: http://www.bomberonline.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=6311 Feel better!

It's like the Music videos where they put the camera looking down the fretboard, only more so! Strange perspective!

Skip Morrow's "I Hate Cats"

Chubz, I happen to have some really hefty 4" x 6" x 8 foot long aluminum extruded beams that should make a really nice press. And I would not want to prevent you from finishing your board. Do you have any extra fire hose you might want to sell? Corey, I will read that thread tonight. Thanks! Eric

As far as cost effectiveness, buying ready made is certainly the better route. Making beer is more expensive than buying, but it was fun and interesting. That's out of my system now and I just buy beer. I am sure that the learning curve is steep, but for me it is as much the process as much as the result. I was going to involve my kids too. They like boarding and I want them to enjoy building things too. Kids these days spend entirely too much time in front of the TV, video games and not enough time jumping bikes off home built 2x12 and cinder block ramps. But that's another issue. I am just intrigued by building a board.

I will probably put the press together after the snow is gone. I was thinking about the issue of metal boards. Discussing metal with a friend, we came to the issue of adhesion and delamination. He said what about using perforated material that would let the epoxy bond through the aluminum. Then I recalled seeing exactly that on Coda's website for their metal option. https://www.codaboards.com/images/solo/solo_metal_option.jpg Does anyone have a Coda board with metal? Does it make for a damper board? I was also thinking of other metals. Aluminum happens to be light, but why not something like brass? It should bond well. Isn't the idea to have a material with a different harmonic frequency?

I would use something like this first. Just to be sure that there is nothing left that would lead the cat to do it again. Did you do something to piss the cat off? http://www.pestproducts.com/bac-azap.htm Also, I would think that you could wash them with cold water and air dry. They do get sweat from feet and wet from snow on the other side, so they should be able to hold up to water.

I found this at Tognar. http://tognar.com/base_repair_tools_iron_ptex_gouges_damage.html Black Metal grip Repair String <table width="100%" border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody><tr><td><!-- InstanceEndEditable --> </td> <td bgcolor="#cccccc"> <!-- InstanceBeginEditable name="item price" -->Item #SPK-560336: $6.95 roll</td></tr></tbody></table> Its about 1/4 of the way down from the top. There is a mention of repairing holes from t-nuts here: http://www.make-digital.com/make/vol20/?pg=136

Apple made a bad decision to keep it's OS a proprietary system. They spent years clawing their way back. They did develop a niche and a group of loyal supporters, but it took years. I think that Burton will be interesting to watch. They have a large base and are now trying to trade on years of good will as well as significant market share. This looks like a move to try to sustain market share.

Fin, This thread is really great. I just came across it. I read the whole thing in one sitting. I love designing! It seems that I have ideas for almost anything I see. For me it is better than video games! What this tread does not capture though is the hours and hours spent in front of a computer putting what is in your head into a form that others can see. And the sleepless nights where ideas tumble around until you can get them out. I know that you stopped pursuing the coil springs because of the uncontrolled harmonic. But what do you think of this design? I put a slug of rubber in the center. But you could add a second coil spring that has a different harmonic frequency. Make the helix in the opposite direction so that the two springs don't tangle and go solid. Most engines' valve springs are double so that they avoid this same issue. Then I added a threaded plug with a 10mm hex so you could adjust the tension. I designed a door lock that uses a coil spring and screw to adjust the pre-load for knobs or levers. http://www.google.com/patents?id=GRMNAAAAEBAJ&pg=PA2&dq=eric+morris&source=gbs_selected_pages&cad=4#v=onepage&q=eric%20morris&f=false Figure 2, Part #'s 90, 92, 94 and 106. It works really well. The attached image is a quick and dirty drawing just for proof of concept. Maybe you can use it or adapt it somewhere. Its been some months since the last update. Any news? Was it on the snow at SES? Eric

The track is by Danny Sullivan & Kemist. Snake Charmer (Uhuru Beats Remix)

Who really NEEDS any of this??? Want is more like it.:lol:

I have the same color. How's that happen?