Coloradoking

sorry man, it just doesnt work without the loctite, the screws would come right out if you tried it without it.

hmm... i'd say about 30

uhhh yeah..... ripstik is the skateboard equivalent of a 2x4 with bindings on it. not to condescend, but that thing is dangerous and honestly does nothing but teach you to twist around instead of pressure with your lower body (really everyone ive seen just lunges around on that thing) i'm not a newbie when it comes to skateboards either, been doing since i was 4 years old and i still cant manage to sack up to going more than 5 mph on one of those things. the closest thing to an alpine board would be anything that flexes with a WB of more than 32" (reverse kingpin trucks above 17.5cm wide also help alot). loaded, fibreflex, etc., they all work. (though i would avoid pintails, the make you think of your front foot as your power more than your back) good luck

just a quick update on the pics, they are coming soon btw just a heads up, the topsheet is a little scuffed, with a couple of shiny spots where the hangls trapped water next to the board, leaving corrosion (i polished it off nice and shiny for you ) it looks as good as a year old metal top can after a year of racing. don't worry, theres nothing more beautiful than a kessler sailing down the run, even if it is a little scuffed.

i think i said to lock out the middle, i meant to lock out the middle the reason i recommend locking out the middle to start off is that when you lock the middle it reduces the floating on the front foot doing 2 things, helping the transition be more direct (this is good for slalom and for people just starting on this plate because it is more comfortable to start off with less change then work your way up). the rectangular washers are what lock the plate out, the circular ones allow it to shift. the reason i say only 2 in back and 2 in the middle is because the plate only comes with 4 congrats on the 2010 SG, i just picked one up myself

thanks bordy, but i think this whole thing might have scared jojogreen out of the board. thanks big canuck, always good to have someone f*ck up my primary income source.

hey man, if you want some details i've got some my recommendation is to use marine epoxy (its the stuff that comes in a 2 tube syringe), ski epoxy isn't quite as durable just fill the delam a little bit and.... take 2 scrapers (1 on each side of the board) and a heavy duty clamp and press it all together. use rough, then fine sandpaper and sand off whatever epoxy is left over after its cured for about 24 hours

okay okay i'll help you out here you will receive the vist plate with all but 4 inserts in a bag, the 4 missing are holding the binding plates to the rails. take the binding plates off of the rails and place 2 rectangular washers into the farthest back 2 inserts on the back foot, take 2 circular ones and attach the farthest forward on the back foot to the board as well. lock these 4 down completely. take 2 rectangular washers (if you have the center holes on your board, if not don't worry about these unless you feel like drilling your board) and place them in the center 2 holes and lock these down completely then take red loctite, and going 1 hole at a time, put about 2 drops of it in the holes and then tighten the screws down, leaving them a little loose so that when you flex the board, the front of the plate slides forward. following all of this, take the binding plates and put them centered on the lower plate, attaching them with the wood screws that came in the bag. dont super-tighten these things, get them to where they have decent pressure on the binding plate then stop, or else you'll strip the plate out. (there goes $500) then mount your bindings! mind you you can adjust this however you want, i'm just giving an overview of how you might want to start out with this thing, you can change it up however you like (remember that you must have at least 2 rectangle washers parallel in the plate at all times or else it'll shift, then you're f**ked) side not: i do not recommend locking the front AND back foot down at the same time, it will stop the flex of the board (THAT'S A BAD THING) in an unnatuaral and uncomfortable way. if you don't have the center holes and you want them (DO NOT DO THIS UNLESS YOU DECIDE YOU TRULY, TRULY WANT THE CENTER LOCKED DOWN, WHICH MEANS RIDE IT MANY TIMES IN DIFFERENT WAYS FIRST, I WOULD NOT RECOMMEND THIS ON A BOARD WITH A METAL TOPSHEET, IT TENDS TO CRACK) then you completely lock down the whole plate in exactly where you want it, place the rectangular washers in the center holes (without screws in them) and mark the spots where they line up with the board. then remove the plate entirely and using a 5mm drill bit, make holes in those locations about 1/4 of an inch deep (DO NOT F*CK THIS UP), you can then mount your plate in the center (don't tighten the screws too much or you'll tear your board apart, these are not reinforced holes) anyone using these instructions owes me $100, ahahaha i win.

that's not exactly it, the coilers just doesnt have the specific flex pattern that the kesslers and SGs have

its a piece of plastic with some slots cut in it so it flexes, and it has a piece of metal on top for your bindings. thats how it works. you need to lock out part of it with the rectangle washers, it can be the front, back or middle of the plate or any combination of the three, it's all about personal choice. as far as my opinion goes lock out your tail and leave the center and front floating to start out (this means using red loctite in the inserts and not tightening the screws all the way)

both kessler (KST) and SG (fullrace/PT) boards are designed to work with specific plates, if you flex each one you can see the flat spot in the middle of the board. (this is necessary to how the board tracks even without the plate). the kessler has a smaller flat spot because the hangls actually partially bind the board, the SG has a longer one because the vist doesn't do that as much. you can run any setup on either board (can't run hangls on fullrace/PT) and it will still work very, very well. the plate system is based purely on rider preference. the coiler boards are not built to work with the plate like the kesslers or SGs, so the experience would be different if you were on one of them. mind you the plates just dont work for some people

that wasnt a sale thread, that was somebody asking about boards to replace his burner. now if you don't mind, please stay out of my thread

please keep unnecessary and undermining comments out of my sale thread

no, it's a 177 so its much more maneuverable than the 185. you'll be comfortable on this thing, i also put a whole season on it so it won't be as stiff as it was when it was new (not to worry, the board is still very, very much alive)

the effective edge, again, is something kessler dreamed up with the KST design, but with these boards a 177 will have something close to 170 cm of effective edge. its alot, trust me these things rail like nothing else. the board was too short and too soft for me, which is why i replaced it. it is still a race quality board for anyone riding less aggressively (or just plain being lighter) than me

psh you know what i mean, its 87 i just didn't think about that before i typed it the board was made for me a little bit ago, it is made for someone around 180 lbs and the sidecut is hansjurg's invention, i have no idea what it is. the stance is default at 49 cm i'll have pics soon, just need to call my parents, they have the board right now. the board has not been ground since the beginning of the season so it will need a new grind (i would recommend a broken linear or a chevron grind for kesslers/SGs)

okay bordy, find out who ended up with my board, I WANT FREE BOARDS! if you can get me a sillygood im all up for that too

ohhhh bordy that's a cheap shot.... haha; that sillygood is an awesome super G board, when are you going to give me one? especially after i hooked you up with my broken SG! by the way, are there hangl inserts on that thing? when FIS sticks super G back into effect i'm going to be the one with the badass stick!

went hard over the toeside edge running slalom on howelsen, by the way this was back in march

screw the burner, screw the tinkler, eff the coiler, buy a kessler or an SG, theres nothing that rides as well as those in the world. nothing. mind you, they don't come cheap

Don't just expect companies to go where you do. If you want to ski and ride, try the UPZ boots with the removable DIN heels, our companies are going to die without support, so please use a snowboard boot, unless you are racing (nastar and usasa definately do not count) please stay on snowboard boots, because really, where would we be without companies like virus, deeluxe and head? Let's keep our companies from becoming another northwave

the fighting. definitely the fighting.

bola is right, im afraid of what the ski boot trend will do to our companies (of course i wasnt thinking of this when i was getting mine), so dont go out and buy a pair of kryptons just because theres a couple of world cup guys wear them. they are not an EC or freecarve boot the kryptons are very stiff laterally, which doesnt allow for the body rotation that helps to get your shoulders lower. all of the deeluxe/raichle boots, head boots and etc. work for freecarving and EC because they flex laterally this is used as a race boot BECAUSE it is stiff laterally, in racing you don't want your body to turn (that is the main difference between race and FC/EC); the lateral stiffness limits this movement. don't turn this into a flame thread, just leave it right here.

you can order 2 types of tongues that dont come with the boots: A which are solid and the D which flex like cloth, the B and C come with the boots (the C are softer)

all of the guys racing on the kryptons are using the C (2nd softest) tongues, D are the little girl tongues so i wouldnt recommend those