leeho730

Perhaps softer red tongue + lock? http://upzboots.com/shop/upz-tongue-set/

Straightline Skiing Costs Millions If You Hit Someone. Then It's Not So Fun. My life has taught me that people don't speed not because it makes roads safer but mainly because they hate paying fines. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Am keen. Shipping to Portland, OR?

32 boots are like head Stratos pro... But has rather low arch area. Focus boa is relatively stiff and light, or prime which is stiffest.

Best thing would be to attend SES and try as many board as possible...? eg. Donek Metal Axxess, Coiler All Mountain Titanal, Virus UFC? I love my Virus Terminator 165 for many of the purposes described but I'm 5'7" 140lbs...

There is no reason why boarders cannot go up and come down on their own. Key is that boarders cannot use lift facilities. Best form of protest will be to skin up and board down without using lift facilities. It's public land, so I believe Alta cannot prevent someone from boarding the slopes as long as he or she does not use lift facilities? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I have mp 255 feet and use mp260 us8 driver x. My experience is, the boots will become roomier with usage so 10.5 may fit now but may cause heel lift... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have Dynafit TLT5. They're superlight (less than 1 kilo), have tight heel area like UPZ, shorter sole, better walk mode, and one can customize flex by modding. Quite a good number of hardboot splitboarders use them with Burton race bails... Disadvantages: durability, price, flex Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ordered size 25-25.5 Liner size: 5 lower shell size: 4/4.5/5 258/279mm So... In your case.... Likely right shell size, wrong liner size. You probably need size 6 liner for mondo 26 foot. Possibly Dan has run out of size 6 liners? I don't think the number 5 on the shell or liner has got to do with US or UK system. Mondo 25 would be more like US7 or UK6. And defnintely nothing to do with euro sizing. So... Number 5 on my liner I think means 5 above 20 for mondo 25. So if you have stated 26 as your foot size, you'd expect size 6 (26-20=6) liner. Your boot shell shows size measurements of 5.5/6/6.5. That would mean the boots accommodate sizes UPZ 5.5/6/6.5, US7.5-8.5, or mondo 25.5-26.5 liners. So it seems you received right size liner for your shell, but not for your feet. Will it matter? Don't know, but I'd say ask Dan if he can exchange the liners to size 6.

Started in 2005 with rental salomon ski boots, snowpro binding and some really old directional alpine board. Didn't really take it seriously, went out with hardboot gear maybe once a month, until I saw "Lifted" by Extremecarving team.

I believe that people should have fun no matter the gear. And a few years back I argued for softboot carving. But some gears are clearly better than others for some purposes. Like for example... If someone wants to do half pipes or slope style stuffs with hardboots I'd say go for softboots, because softboots are better for it. Also because great riders like Shaun White rock on half pipes and kickers with softboot gears. But am I dissing hardbooters? No, I'm just stating the fact... I can extremecarve on softboots, but the ideal gear for that would be hardboots. And if your local community consists of elitist pricks Bart... My condolence. Maybe I should've included the following line on my previous post: "Why not try softened hardboots...?" So that my post wouldn't sound condescending... Bummer. So no disrespect to you, Bart... Just curious why you've chosen softboots.

I have softened my hardboots and now I use hardboots for almost everything: powder, carving, freeriding, even basic freestyle... I use hardboots with the following boards: Donek Incline 160, Rad Air Tanlker 172, Swoard Dual 158 and use burton race binding, soft enough... Hardboots carve better, easier to put on, easier to strap onto the binding, and if desired I can change binding angles to better adapt the condition...

Wow... You must be really good... I'm a mere mortal... I tried with my Technica Agent 110 boots and metal freecarve board. Carveable? Yup. Fun? Hell no...

Dear Momsboard2, Although I'm not as qualified as others here... But if you don't mind my opinion... I guess you're riding on duck stance with wide stance width... So you might want try forward stance, say 21/6... Anywhere between 18-27 at the front and 6-15 at the back... So please find comfortable angles and stance width... Stance width should be no bigger than your shoulder width... If there is too much speed, J-turn (going a bit uphill at the end of the turn) is a good way to bleed some speed... Technique-wise there are tons of videos, not to mention bomber articles, but here is a good one to look at: http://www.extremecarving.com/films/demos/wmv/virage_push-pull.wmv Setup-wise your boots won't be as responsive or stiff as hardboots.... Softest hardboots without tuning would easily be like 9/10 in terms of flex... Your snowboard will be ok for now but in fact is not as good as alpine freeride boards... About getting a new one... I'd say please practise with your current setup as much as possible... Then perhaps when you're ready you might want to buy some cheap second-hand Raichle boots off the Ebay... I got mine for $85... Then buy BTS spring tuning kit from bomber with softest yellow/yellow springs and attach it to the boots... And go for second-hand flexible bindings such as Burton Race from here or on Ebay... If you're lucky you might be able to get those three items for $300 plus shipping... And then try them on your existing board and slowly increase binding angles over a few days until there is no overhang... When you feel like you want more speed, and hate the board losing too much speed after a turn or two when the board is put on high inclination... Then you might be ready to try another, more serious board with at least 9m sidecut radius... About the board recommendation... Please post here and any member will be happy to help you... But honestly... The best thing will be to ride with someone here and follow his or her advice...

Well... I believe equipments such as soft hardboots tuned with BTS plus flexible plate bindings like Burton race are superior to most advanced softboots and most responsive bindings such as C60 in terms of carving because hardboots are way more responsive and allows riders to better fine-tune edge pressure during the carving... So instead of spending money on good softboots setup which might cost $400 to $500 to get good response on 40+ angle why not spend similar money and go for soft hardboots from the beginning and gradually switch from either duck or mellow forward stance to forward stance until there is no overhang... And boards like Rad Air Tanker reverse camber or Donek Nomad are keeper and people can still use them with hardboots on powder days... I don't mean people should spend a long time on duck stance... Maybe a week or two then gradually introduce forward stance and maybe in a month or two he/she can go forward stance with no overhang... I mean I agree that forward stance with 40+ angle is a way to go... My idea is that instead of doing it from day one maybe it's good to let people develop abilities to carve with such angle in day 15 or so... Just a matter of pace really... The thing is.... For us 45/40 might be a quite relaxed, easy angle but for beginners it can be quite intimidating... And then they try with stiff boots... They don't have fun.... Like the gentleman I saw last season... He was on something like 50/50 on narrow (19cm) burton board... and whenever I saw him I could see he was struggling... Never saw him carving properly the whole season and he was on beginner slope all the time... Was he having fun... As far as I could see he wasn't... But it's not like I'm right you're wrong... My opinion is just that there might be an alternative, gentler way to introduce hardbooting for beginners... Food for thought...

Well... I agree that duck stance with hardboot on carving board is an awful idea long term. But for beginner... It's not such a bad idea... Because for beginners the most important thing is to have safe, gainful and fun experience. And for someone who's been in on softboot riding for about a season... Steep forward angles and stiff boots can be quite intimidating. Well let's say for example it would be difficult for him to ride 17cm Virus boards on 60/54 even though for us it rocks. And in certain situations duck stance can be of advantage. Like quite a good number of hardboot splitboarders use duck stance on their hardboot bindings such as phantom. Actually come to think of it Phantom binding itself is designed with duck or mellow forward stance in mind since it can't go over 30 degrees in either direction. http://splitboard.com/talk/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=16089&st=0&sk=t&sd=a http://splitboard.com/talk/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=15670&st=0&sk=t&sd=a One well-experienced forum member, uses 25/-12 angles, albeit on shorter stance width (22.5"). Although I admit Phantom has built-in cant that makes duck stance a bit easier. But if Momsboard2 can be supported by local carvers, it could be awesome! Follow their advice on the slope, that would be the best way.

I like UPZ because heel area on the shell is so narrow one doesn't need some kind of foam injection liner on them... UPZ has more performance oritented shell compared to Deeluxe which has more consumer/comfort oriented shell with wide heel area... But I like Deeluxe enough to keep them... With proper liner they can rock IMHO, but such liner needs to a) consist of materials that resist compression esp at the front of the ankle with repeated use b) enough material to feel the gap between the tongue and the ankle... BTS has wider range of motion and feels sturdier/over-engineered compared to UPZ spring mechanisms and with a bit of tinkering one can also adjust forward lean as well as dial the flex to what he or she wants... But there is no walk mode... Give and take so to speak... For carving I use UPZ with locked lever and for powder riding I use deeluxe with BTS and foam injected liner... But I really can't comment on whether UPZ would suit you because I wouldn't have clue in regards to your foot shape... So I'd like to say try before you buy... Carpet carving time...

I might get chewed for this.... But here we go... I recon... For beginner, suitable equipments would consist of second-hand Deeluxe 325/700 or Raichle + yellow/yellow BTS + Burton race / Ibex Speed + all mountain softboot carving boards such as second-hand Incline or Razor or competent powder boards such as Rad Air Tanker 162/172... And start with duck stance like 18/-6... I saw this beginner gentlemen last season who were on Raichle (with 5-position lock), Burton binding, and Burton board... And my god he was struggling the whole season (or whenever I saw him)... I really wanted to recommend him to go a bit wide and definitely get BTS... But I didn't know him so I wouldn't comment unless asked... At least on duck stance it's easier to manoeuvre the boards... And with BTS and second-hand Deeluxe boots and Burton race binding things are a lot more forgiving and easier compared to putting absolute beginner on 45/40 and with locked rigid boots... And then once said person gets used to it one can slowly introduce forward stance and slowly and progressively increase binding angles until probably by the end of the season he or she would be comfy enough on forward stance with no overhang and possibly introduce heel lift or 7-degree cant on back foot... Then maybe in next season he or she may be ready for proper carving boards with VSR and 20cm-width boards... Sell the existing board or keep it just in case he or she wants to go softboot riding or powder riding or still wants to go softboot riding... So... Momsboard2, I would like to recommend used Donek Incline/Razor, Swoard Dual, Rad Air Tanker reverse camber 162/172 (I recommend Rad Air Tanker because you can still have massive fun on powder day with hardboots and burton race binding), used Deeluxe 700/325 or Raichle boots, BTS with yellow/yellow springs, and used burton race/ Ibex Speed binding. Please start with duck stance (18/-6) or mellow forward stance (21/6) and gradually increase angles once you are comfortable with forward stance... By end of the season you would have advanced enough to feel the need of 7-degree cant on back foot... Please see the attached pictures... Then gradually upgrade equipments like bindings to something more serious like TD3 or F2 and full-on carving or race boards (too many choices).... And possibly keep the board for powrder days... Or buy something like Donek Axxess, Coiler AMT or Virus UFC if you want one board to go everywhere... Hope this helps...

Hi nekdut, If jacopodotti don't take it, I'll take it. Shipping to Portland, Oregon?

Tried Libtech TRS 157 MTX in 2007. The edges seemed to drag, especially if there was a patch of ice under soft snow, would sometimes hear grinding noise. Not very smooth. For me traditional edges felt like riding a motorbike on a sealed road whereas MTX edges were like riding a 4WD on a mud flat. Returned for refund after 10 days and never looked back.... MTX kinda makes sense to me since boards with detuned MTX edges for jibbing can still bite edges for spins at the kicker. I believe if done right it could be really advantageous on icy slope. I believe Lindsey Vonn talked about it? http://www.denverpost.com/politics/ci_11435013 Would be interested to see how her serrated edges look like. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I use Zipfit Gara 24.5 (http://www.zipfit.com/gara.html) on UPZ 25-25.5. UPZ boots have some seriously low heel volume and that's why it works better than Deeluxe boots for some with TF or Intuition liners. With Deeluxe boots, I recon injection moulded liners plus downsizing are the best solutions to get a really good heel hold. For example on Raichle 123 size 24 I had to get FOUR foam injections on Grand prix 24.5 liners (http://www.zipfit.com/granprix.html) that already had 20% more foam than Gara 24.5. Bugger... Also I agree that stock FLO liners make toes feel cold, are stiffer than other liners, and are of good quality.

Street: US 8 (260) Actual size: US7 or 254 Width: D (100mm) UPZ: 25, feels true to size. Narrowest heel area of all boots I have Deeluxe 700/325: 25, feels half to one size too big Raichle 123: 24, feels true to size, heel area still too big Head HSP: 24, feels true to size, heel area narrower than Raichle but wider than UPZ 25. UPZ boots seem to have smallest heel volume, smaller than Raichle/Head 24. In terms of sole length on the inside of the boot shell, UPZ 25 and Deeluxe 25 feel samey, i.e., one and half finger excess space.

You can still do fully laid carved turns with Donek Incline 160 and soft boots and bindings... But Razor might suit you better. Please note that Sean's boards aren't the lightest ones in town, but very durable. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

US7.5 with E width and a happy UPZ size 25, Head and Raichle size 24 customer. I recon Track 325 shell might be best? Of all boots I mentioned Raichle 24 seems to be the biggest... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

For me the biggest problem of Deeluxe boots are volumes. I have size 25.5 feet and size 25 Track 700 and 225 are way too big for my feet. Size 25 UPZ boots have low volume shell but have extra spaces in right places. Volume of size 25 UPZ boots are actually smaller than size 24 Deeluxe boots, and that's why UPZ fits much better! For example on my Raichle 123 size 24 boots i had to inject foam 4 times on size 24 Ziptfit for respectable heel hold, with UPZ size 25 I use low volume Zipfit without any foam injection and get good heel hold. If I buy Deeluxe boots again I'd definitely downsize. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk