~tb

Good luck finding these! I tried for two years and only was lucky enough to find one pair. I just recently went through buying a pair for the TD3 and taking them to a machine shop to have them modified to fit my cateks. If you know anyone who works in a machine shop, this can sometimes be had for ~a case of beer. Do NOT use the catek heel bail as a toe bail. They are two different shapes.

So . . . I will own up to being the person who flagged the question posted and request it be removed. It is my desire and hope that we maintain the forum in a way that is conducive to both viewership at work as well as viewership while my wife, daughter, mother or grandmother is reading over my shoulder. The image there in did not meet this criteria, would be a fireable offense if I pulled that up on my lunch break or on my mobile phone and could land me in the doghouse with ANY of the women in my life. There are plenty of other sites to go to if that is what you want to see. Sure, the "board" in question might have been mighty fine looking just not in line with what I thought the forum is meant to be. If this is the game to be played, it would open the door for putting any picture on the outline of a snowboard and calling it fair game. Just my 2 cents, but also not a coward

Ill pull a pair off on tuesday and shoot you a line. Was there something else you posted in wanted recently? I think there might be something else you wanted that I had, but didn't think it was worth contacting. . . . Please let me know what you think "fair and reasonable" price is. my e-mail is available through the forum.

I recommend mcmaster-carr. www.mcmaster.com im pretty sure they have all of the screws you might need

I'm in the process of doing the same thing as you. I went the route of buying the bomber heel receivers and fintecs and going to a machinest to have the heel receivers modified to fit the cateks. Much better and safer setup. There is a thread her showing the modifications. Buy back to your question. Once my new fintecs arrive on Friday, I have a set of moderately used intec's I would sell you for not to much money.

Photos of plate/board below. The upper plate is the black carbon portion. The lower board is the white part. Yes, this plate is designed to stiffen the board and even increase camber. to use it, you would need to add 6 inserts to the board to mount it. The widest possible stance with a pair of bombers would be about 19.5 or 19.75". I WOULD NOT DO THIS TO A SABER. Sell the saber and either have another one made now that you know what you dislike about it. Anyone who wants to buy the upper plate for a DIY plate project, please let me know.

MistaMistaMan, I have a set of longs if you are still looking.

Cielo, Do you ever venture down towards Boxborough, MA? I see Alex on the weekends and could shelp the goods southbound. (I Also have a pair at my house as we speak that you could pick up as early as today and I would replace them with Alex's next time I see him).

Title says it all, but I recently got back from a trip to salt lake where I put 2 days in on an Incline in hard boots and had an absolute blast! Floats in the powder, fun in the trees, stiff enough to lay over carves on the groomers even with a stiff Deelux Indy and cateks. I also will run the incline with Catek Freerides. This has become my go anywhere do anything board. Get it to the right spec for you and it will be more fun than any board the original poster sited (not familiar with some of the others). I guess the major contrast between the incline and ATV is that the ATV evolved more from a hardboot board into an all mountain board, where as the incline is a stiffer, soft boot inspired board that can stand up to the rigors of hard booting. Are you looking for the one board quiver, or a board that will nicely round out a quiver? I think both will work (you might also look at the Donek Phoenix). If I read the prior site correctly, the AtV is only offered in a 161 (but they can customize anything). Phoenix and incline art $600 while the ATV is $799. Good luck. You can't go wrong with any of these boards.

Anyone out there upgrade to BTS and have the RAB left over? Piecing together a complete second "matched" setup and would like this. Ill buy the parts from Bomber, but thought I would start here.

How committed are you to this endeavor? I have a 24-7 with a "tinkler" style plate on it that could be harvested. Would require you to t-nut whatever it is going on. I bought it to screw around with, but the lower board was in worse condition than advertised but got it at deep enough discount that I didn't feel like doing anything about it If interested can take pictures and dimensions.

What is size 12 in mondo point? I have a set of Catek OS1s I would sell.

There are a lot of options in Vermont, but what are you looking to learn? I bet you could likely pick up a good chunk just by putting in some riding time with the group of regular carvers at Stratton.

Alright all, I don't post often but felt compelled to jump in here. Last year I had a bad accident that resulted in a lot of helmet study and research before returning to the hill. I would like to share the following. 1) above all else, wear a helmet. A robust cheap helmet is better than no helmet. 2) proper fit and a good safety rating is more important than brand, cost, style 3) buy a helmet that has a European certification. US standards are lower. When I sought replacement advice from the company that I was wearing at the time of my accident, they basically owned up to their US only products being crap. 4) $ doesn't matter when it comes to your head. If you are spending more on a lift ticket then you are spending on your helmet, I would challenge that your priorities are backwards. That being said, once you have found the right helmet, if you can buy last year's at a deep discount, go for it!

People looking for bindings only, I'll contact next week. I'm trying I move complete setups as the boards take up more space, and I am not too opposed to Catek spare parts right now.

Anyone eyeing the 205. It looks like shipping of this beast may be difficult. To ship from Boston to Colorado has even estimated to be ~$95. If you want to find an alternative here are the box dimensions. Length: 86" Width: 12" Height: 3" Girth: 24" Weight: 15lbs? Shipping from zip 01701

Similar construction. Completely different shape. The demo was a more carve oriented shape IIRC where this is a GS shape.

Alright folks, Too many nice boards collecting dust. As the caption reads, pick a board, pick a binding configuration, name the price. more details or better pictures available upon request. Bindings are all catek OS 1 or 2's and I can set them up as step in or regular, short or long (If long, I only have OS1's and not OS2's) Boards, left to right Donek Gen 1 Freecarve metal 171 (multi color topsheet). This is a "glass shape" with metal and no rubber dampening. good edge grip and tons of fun, but with out the rubber is very "lively." Waist width is 18.0 CM. Good condition with about 12 days on it. Edges need a quick polish Donek Carbon/Kevlar 184 GS (biax carbon). 20 cm waist width, modern decamber and VSR shape, no metal, no rubber. Lots of fun. This one might be tough to let go. good condition with about 20 days on it. One small base repair that I can't find right now, edges could use a quick polish. Donek Kevlar GS 185 (yellow kevlar). 18.5 cm waist. Constant sidecut radius and no decamber. Has 2 strips of titinal top and bottom. has about 8 days on it and is tons of fun. Great to excellent condition. Donek Stock Glass GS 185 (metallic red). 18.5 cm waist. only ridden one day. This was the old stable horse before everything went metal. Still fun to ride, but it was bought as my "next board" and never pulled out Donek Gen 1 Metal GS 185 (silver). 18.5 cm waist,constant sidecut radius and no decamber. Same shape as the board above but built with carbon, titnal and no rubber. Tons of fun, shows some wear, about 15-20 days on this board. Also might be a tough one to let go of. Donek Stock Glass SG 195 (green). 18.5cm waist. constant sidecut radius and no decamber. Ridden ~15 days and shows a little wear on the topsheet. Donek Glass 205 (yellow smiley faces) 18.5cm waist. constant sidecut radius and no decamber. ridden ~10 days and shows a littl wear on top sheet. unlikey to ride again but please be aware this one is costly to ship. Make a reasonable offer via the e-mail function and I will consider them.

Please email me at the address below so we can work out how you would like to be paid. eces2006 (at) gmail (dot) com Thank! Not that it matters, but do you know what size these are?

Look good! Please email price through forum and let's see if we can make this happen!

Trying one last one before I go to a button binding. Does anyone have a pair of catek FR2s they are willing to part with?

Zoltan, I have one if the AF prototypes in my possession and several days on it. For me, I see no downside of the AF plate comped to the A plate. I love the thing. I might encourage you to reach out to Mark Kress or Converse Fields through Doneks Facebook page as those two probably have the most miles on these plates and could provide the best answer. I will (significantly) stretch here and say that I think the only possible downside of the AF plate might be that it offers slightly less total isolation as compared to the A plate or other axel based systems. That being said, all the benefits WELL outweigh this. Buy one, you will not be disappointed.

Shipping to 01719?

interested as well if these two other jokers fall through.

Don't do this. . . so . . . I think it will work just fine in your basement or your living room. When everything is clean and dry, then the elastomer will likely stick to the board like glue. As you suspect, you will not be able to spin it. however if you EVER do an on hill adjustment or move the bindings midday, you will like end up with a small amount of water, or even worse, ice crystals between the elastomer and the board, in this scenario, the binding will spin at a much lower torque. also, I don't think the elastomer was ever meant to be loaded in shear. it may work, but at the same point, I am sure that it would be designed differently to make sure it didn't fail at some of the corners. This second point is much less of a concern than the water/ice crystal concern.