Gunnar

Have anyone been in contact with Catek lately? I cant log in to the forum. And have not got any answer on my emails. The first i sent 5 days ago..

---> ...the lever arm..<--! ??

Or do someon know what material the lever arm inside is made of?

Ok. Lets say we cut the soft powderchannel/concave/tunnel in the midle, like on a splitboard. So the tails can flex indipendently. Maybe even cut away the midle 1/2 half, like a narrow swallowtail, with bent up inside edges. Do you still think it would it make any negative difference in versatility to a regular swallow or fishtail board? Regarding, press, grind, sanding, and everything else: It works fine on the Volkl Selecta, so why not just scale it up..?

Can you explaine the slideing on groomed thing further? I have experienced BIG problems to skid on my swallow in braking spring crust. The inside edges on the swallow was catching under the crust, and made it impossible to slide to a stop! A powder channel, or broader, and upturned inside edges on the swallow would avoide that problem. I have not had the same problem on my Dynastar 4807. because the inside edges on the fishtail are less parallel to the centerline, then on a swallowtail. What would the downsides of a powderhannel be, exept a little extra weight, if made high and soft/flexy enough. So the swallowtails could stil flex individually ?

I wonder why the "powder channel" tail like on Volkl's Selecta isnt used on real swallowtails. Im shure it would make them more versatile! Todays ski designs have evolved from snowboards. But I think its time for the oposit now. The K2 Pontoons are by far the best off pist skiis I have been on. Im now waiting for a pair of Volkl Kuros. They are reported to be carvable in soft pist to! I think they have close to the ultimate design for the allmountain powder/ slush/steeps/tight spots allso for a powder board.

How wide are the original screw heads?

Nice modd! Wider washers on the screws might make it harder to overtorqued them.

I made a really deep struckture on an old board. Alot less suction, but very hard to skid. Maybe a deep struckture in the front, and less in the back could work? /Gunnar

My cure for the heel chatter was to tilt the canting of my front binding towards the heel edge. That makes the heelside less agressive. The difference was amazing... (Its very easy to try different canting and lift adjustmen on Catek's. Can easely be done on the way up in the lift! Thanx Catek!!!) Copied from www.alpinecarving.com : "Cant/Lift can also prevent the board from twisting, a common source of heel side chatter. If you rotate your torso toward the nose of the board, and you have a bent-knee style of carving, your stance will naturally twist the board, causing the nose of the board to carve a tighter turn than the tail. As a result, the board may skid or chatter...."

I aske you this because I REALLY wan't to understan your way of............whatever: 1. Put your boots parallel into a pair of skis (or a monoski) and flex your ankles. Then you get the maximum ROM you can get from that specific boot, Right? 2. Put the same boots on a board whit flat bindings: Is the ROM the same, or limited? 3. Then ad a bit of toe and heel lift. Does that alter you ROM closer or further away from example 1.??? /Gunnar

Anyone riding flat on a Sqwal? Must be greate for ROM! Oh! By the way. Is there more...

Do you still want to keep your 6* discs? I'll have one 3* i wana exchange.. /Gunnar

And I'll take the 6 deg if shipped to Europe

I think the idea are "nice" But I also think its BS from the Salomon rep!! When you land "in the back seat" you eather have the muscle force to stand up. Or you end up sitting down, and let your buttsaver and spineprotector take the inpact. I know there is a boot modle on the market that have some kind of mecanic backwards "overload relees" But i think they are spcialy designed for week and old knees...

Hello. do you stil have the Unicant for sale?

I forgot to spec that all my numbers are lift. I have added the original cant shims outward on my front F2 binding. Don't know how many degrees they gives, including the 5,5degree canting plate? /Gunnar

Hmmm. How about the numbers on the bottom of folowing page then??? http://www.alpinecarving.com/binding_setup.html#other ................

Thx for the respons Fin! I don like the "forward lean on rear boot and/or less on the front boot" trick. It limits the ankles forward flex motions. Bad in bumps and transitions. (I can't understand how riders can like to ride flat!!!? But I suppose many of them have not tried anything else )<o></o> I like my wide and stable stance, and I know I want more lift over all.<o></o> On my Burton Fish I have Unicant set to max (8 degrees) in the back, and a fixed <st1:city w:st="[/img]<ST1<img" src="images/smilies/tongue.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Stick Out Tongue" smilieid="6" class="inlineimg">Burton</st1:city> 5,5degrees Hex-disc up front. Very comfortable.<o></o> But that’s on a Fish, so it’s hard to tell if it's a good set up for EC. I think it will be too much in the turns, when the board bends. <o></o> I can't try the same set up on my Afterburner, because I have no 3x3 plate for the Hex-Disc.<o></o> But I’m going to try 5,5 and 6 degrees on the Fish with the same stance, to se how it feels before I try to swap my 3* bomber disc for a 6*. /Gunnar<o></o><o></o>

Hello I have 3 and 6 degree plates. Set to max toe lift up front, and max heel lift on the back binding. I want to try to add a bit more. Is it possible to use flat shims under the blocks. Or will that interfere with the funktion of the Intec's? If so, is ther any slanted shims avilable? /Gunnar