noschoolrider

Yes, and also blend them (cross-through). I'm not trying to hijack this thread, but for those that are new to this the following videos show some of the best of two different techniques: Extreme carving featuring Patrice Fivat and Jacques Rilliet: Sigi Grabner (Ride With Me):

Eurocarve vs Extreme Carving - Jacques Rilliet (Swoard and extremecarving.com founder) At the end of the 80's here in Europe, most riders were hardbooters. We could see in Snowboarding Transworld Magazine that it was the opposite in the USA : riders were all freestylers, there was no picture of any hardbooter (please correct me if I’m wrong). One of the coolest trick to manage at that time was the Vitelli turn which was a totaly frontside laid out turn (invented by the French rider Serge Vitelli on a HOT Revolution). You were sure to find a picture of him or Jean Nerva or Peter Bauer or some other top Euro rider laying down a turn in any snowboarding magazine! For Patrice and me, this goal kept up until now and became « Extremecarving » when we could link frontsides and backside laid out turns. In fact we invented this name at the end of 2001 when we had to find a name for our website and kind of « discipline ». We wanted to translate the «extreme» angulation of the body on the slope (and not an «extreme danger» as sometimes suggested). In the middle of the 90’s a friend of mine told me that there was a rebirth of hardbooting in the USA and that they called the Vitelli turn a «Eurocarve» because it was the euro riders that did it at first. So as far as I know a Eurocarve is a laid out turn and EC is linked laid out turns. Jacques

Here are some videos that you might find educational/helpful: Shiori Hashiba - Carving Skiing crossover New School vs Old school what is faster? 6 ski technique mistakes (myths) busted by Marcel Hirscher

You're welcome.

I did not say “retraction is best (or better) than extension”. The body’s joins flex and extend. You should study the difference between retraction-extension turns and extension-flexion turns. I like them both, however as I said, “Sometimes retraction is a better choice than extension”.

That is not what I said. I said, "Good racers focus on getting early edge engagement first and then apply the appropriate amount of pressure". When you unweight (retract, rebound-unweight, down-unweight, up-unweight, or terrain-unweight) you are reducing pressure (unweighting), which is when most riders will change edges and then apply/adjust pressure as needed. If you get early edge engagement first and then apply the appropriate amount of pressure (also early in the turn) then you can take a higher/tighter line and you will be less likely to have too much pressure in second half of the turn, which can result in chatter, too big of a turn and being late for the next turn. If your legs are only extending then you cannot regulate/absorb excessive pressure/vibrations/ruts. It is better if you have enough range of motion so you can always flex and extend to regulate/adjust pressure and for adjustments for terrain/condition changes.

"Extending legs all the way through" can result in chatter (too much pressure). Sometimes retraction is a better choice than extension. Expert riders/skiers do not need to actively unweight to change edges – they can use their feet/ankles/knees/hips to flip-it/roll-it even when the board/skis are fully pressured.

If you watch the video closely you can see Masi Shiba (the racer) start to edge/tilt his snowboard before he moves his hips to add pressure/weight to the snowboard. Inexperienced coaches tell clients the most important thing is to apply pressure early at the top/start of the turn. However, if you do not have sufficient edge angle (tilt) before you apply pressure you will skid/slide an unedged/flat snowboard (or skis). Good racers focus on getting early edge engagement first and then apply the appropriate amount of pressure – they will adjust the edge angle and pressure as needed. When a snowboard with the edge engaged is pressured in the fall-line it will accelerate faster and track better than a snowboard that is pressured while not on edge. Even in a cross-over or a cross-through turn you should have the edge engaged before your hips/center-of-mass add more pressure. I like to flip it and rip it – I flip the board to the new/other edge as fast as possible – well before my hips have moved significantly into the turn (and/or downward) to apply additional pressure. When I want to ride mellow (not very often), I just roll the board onto the new edge.

F2 Race CNC https://www.carversparadise.com/en_US/products/f2-race-cnc Oops, looks like they are sold out.

lowerslocal did not complete the purchase so this board is still for sale.

Burton Race Plates, Ibex, and Speed CC bindings https://www.carversparadise.com/en_US/products/speed-cc-steel have bails similar to the Phantom M6. You could also get an extra set of M6 bindings to mount permanently on your regular board.

Hi Jack, You should check out his movies Deeper, Further and Higher. In one of those movies (I think it's Deeper or Higher) his racing background and Olympic quest are covered. Relevant Snowboard Riding Stance Information: https://www.jonessnowboards.com/content/216-a-guide-on-how-to-find-your-snowboard-riding-stance

SOLD The boots and liners are MP 27-27.5 (US men’s 9-9.5). The liners have been fitted for MP 27.5. The boots have only been used a couple of days and are in excellent condition. The Deeluxe Thermoflex Liners have been heat molded one time but they were also used in another set of boots, so the liners have about two seasons of use.

Hi lowerslocal, I sent a reply to your private message. Let me know if you did not receive it.

Hi barryj, yes the board is still available. I never heard back from lowerslocal. Yes, Hans built it for me as an aggressive 140lb racer (it is close to stock stiffness in the middle) but the nose is slightly stiffer than normal. FYI, I sold a custom made 180 Kessler alpine to colintkemp and a custom made 177 Kessler alpine to Jim Farr. Both of those Kesslers had a slightly softer flex pattern than this 162 and both of those guys are a lot bigger than me. After they got the custom Kesslers they told me they loved them.

It is still for sale and I replied to your private message. Don Richter www.donrichter.com

I know that drill, I know how to teach and use drills and I have years of experience experimenting with many different types of turns. My comments on pure carving and rotation are based upon years of professional experience which you can read about at https://donrichter.com FYI, I teach pivot/rotation and coach racers on how, when and where to use drift turns (when they are beneficial). I posted about this in another thread a couple years ago and I was told, "drift turns are not a debatable alternative to carved turns in racing". I don’t agree with posting a topic on a public forum and then claiming that people with different views/information should not make comments. Isn’t that like censorship or saying my opinion is the only one that should be allowed? Shouldn’t this forum be about sharing information, which includes different viewpoints and different ways to do things? Or, would you prefer that some threads only allow posts that agree with the originator's comments (groupthink)?

That is a good workout and the skater is very skilled. However, the amount of rotation shown in the video is necessary because the skater is on a flat surface (the skater needs to move forward and turn). If the cones were on a slope steep enough for the skater to use gravity to move forward (at the same speed as in the video) then that much rotation would be unnecessary and inefficient. If you are trying to do pure carved turns on a snowboard then you should not be trying to use rotation/pivot as your turning mechanism – a pure carver should be more focused on tilt/edge and pressure instead of rotation. Also, just because you see a rider moving in and out of countered positions (where the upper body is not in alignment with the lower body) it does not mean they are using counter rotation. Counter rotation is when the upper and the lower body move in opposition to each other. I mentioned this because a lot of people claim that racers are using counter rotation when they are not.

PSIA-AASI does endorse rotation. In AASI, rotational movements are components of Pivot (same as CASI). A directional stance is not related to Pivot/Rotation. You can teach/demonstrate carving and pivot/rotation in a directional stance and a duck stance (watch Ryan Knapton). I would not waste my time trying to explain the benefits of a directional stance to people who are close minded. However, on page 42 of the AASI Snowboard Technical Manual (under Stance) it says, "Positive front and positive rear: This style is preferred by riders who tend to ride forward most of the time, such as people who enjoy carving or racing snowboard cross (e.g., +18 degrees front and +6 degrees on the rear foot." Also, last time I checked Terje Haakonsen still rides a directional stance (Front +24 / Back +9) and so does Jeremy Jones. Jeremy’s High Performance Freeride Stance: Front +27 / Back 0 to +6 Jeremy’s Surf Series Stance: Front +27 to +30 / Back +6 to +12 https://www.jonessnowboards.com/content/313-how-to-set-up-your-snowboard-stance-like-the-jones-team-and-ambassador

It's optimized by Hansjuerg Kessler to be ridden with a Donek F plate (no axles), which is my favorite plate for slalom race boards and for my free ride alpine boards. It has been a winning formula for me. However, it rides similar to what you described with an Apex, Jasey-Jay or Boiler plate.

In my experience, (with or without using a plate) the combination of a slightly stiffer nose and slightly softer middle allows the rider to create more rebound and it also provides better tracking/grip in a rutted race course. Technically, a softer middle area bends more in a turn which makes the board slightly slower than one with a stiffer middle area. However, (when needed) I utilize the additional rebound (create more energy and release that energy) to accelerate and/or change edges faster. This makes me faster and more stable than when racing on boards with stiffer middle areas. I also find that using UPM plates can overpower boards with softer nose areas, plus I like having a stiffer nose for preforming drift turns (when needed) in a race course because the nose is more stable and you don't lose as much speed compared to a board with a softer nose. I'm about 140 but I always ride boards that are beyond my recommended weight range (I ride very aggressively). I have sold several of my custom Kesslers to much heavier riders who said they loved the flex pattern.

This board was custom made by Hansjuerg Kessler. The board has only been used six times and it's in excellent condition. This was my race day only board. Features: Length: 162 cm Waist width: 20.5 cm (custom) Side cut: KST SL (7-12 m range) Topsheet: Black P-tex Inserts: UPM inserts, plus full 4x4 insert pack Kessler Gold Medal Basegrind and Structure Race Tune: 3 degree sidewall and 1 degree base bevel The middle area is slightly softer than a stock 162 and the nose area is slightly stiffer than a stock 162. This is not a floppy nose Kessler. $995 - includes shipping in the contiguous United States.

I will buy it if barryj does not.

I agree with yamifumi, SG (Sigi Graber) Performance Bindings: https://www.sgsnowboards.com/gear/sg-performance-bindings/ https://upzboots.com/product/sg-performance-race-bail/

At least you didn't use a dirty one from a vacuum cleaner. I've seen all kinds of things at tuning parties, it's best to tune first then drink.