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Hug Masso

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    40
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  • Location
    Spain
  • Home Mountain/Resort?
    Pyrenees
  • Occupation?
    Computer technician
  • Current Boards in your Quiver
    F2 WC SL 158, Kessler 168 The Alpine
  • Current Boots Used?
    Deeluxe Track 700
  • Current bindings and set-up?
    F2 intec
  • Snowboarding since
    2000
  • Hardbooting since
    2022

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  1. Indeed. Thank you very much! Noted! Thank you!
  2. Thanks! Are Rc11 and Rc12 considered recreational? In upz webpage it says for both: Racing/freecarve. The RCR are racier or just the newer version of the RCXx? Thanks for the priority order!
  3. Ok @Aracan, thank you, just let me confirm what you did. You put some padding in the pressure point, the socks over to keep everything in place, then heat the liner at this point, and put liner in the boot and foot inside and buckle up, so the final effect is that the liner gets more packed and thin in that pressure point. Am I correct? I don’t have a heat gun but plan on using my girlfriend hair dryer for a long time. If that is not good I will remove material. On that last case, a cutter or sth similar is the proper way to remove material little by little? That I’ve heard about intuition liners @Jack M. They are not easy to find in Europe, instead the Palau liners have good press here and cost around 100€ a pair of moldable ones. I believe it is a french company. Is this the intuition liner everybody talks about? Are they specific to hardboots right?
  4. Yes! I also have a Palau liner and is definitely very thick, so I will try to give it a go. how did you remove material? with a sharp knive and scratching little by little on the outside? Well the price of 450 euros is just the shell. The webpage that sells it gives the option to put Palau liners for added 80 euros, which is quite good, but @Jack M advice was to use a lower volume liner, since the UPZ seems to have a lower inside volume in general, and my euro 43 Free 69 with the Palau liners is already very stuffed... also, those flo liners can be bought separately, but are REALLY expensive... So, will need to wait. Also, I have done the obvious today, and written to Deeluxe company directly see if the can sell me the spare part, althoug from what i've heard they normally don't respond...
  5. Sorry, yes, I meant the exact opposite. As I understand, the relieving of pressure points should be done to the shells of all hardboots, or at least this is what bootfiters tend to do… am I right? So are the Rc11 a flexier shell apart from the tongue? Being the sane price as RC12, what would be the logical buy for a 85 kg freecarver?
  6. Ok guys before asking some more particular things for what you said let me ask a concern I have. I have heard Deeluxe have larger toe box and narrow heels, while is it opposite one UpZ. I havent had major inconvenience or pressure points in the Deeluxe apart from a major bit intense pressure point in bot the 700 and the Free 69, which is a quite usual pressure point, but that is neither toe or heel related, and its this point: I know a bootfiter could adress that, but i’d rather have it right without touching the structural rigidity by punching the boot inside. So now the important question: would you say UPZ is wider at this point? My feet are quite neutral, except for a bit of wider feet at this middle section. That would be so nice to know. Apart from that, yes my toes get a bit crunched on the Deeluxes. Yes, I will do that! Thanks for all the other advice! I have the choice of the RC11 or RC12 for 450€, so both the same price. I have seen it is not so much a quality question but a rigidity one. Maybe for a freecarving scenario the RC11 is preferable? Also worth mentioning the RC11 is in neon green and they look quite ace, while the RC12 are all black. Yes, the broken bolt is in the rear foot. But if I buy the UPZ, I will proably ditch the Track 700…but once I find a lockable T Nut I will put it in the front foot as you say, thats quite a clever idea, didnt know the rear foot received more pressure. This is the picture of the Rc12,s as I said, I can have for the same price the RC11, which look dope, but curious to see which is more convenient, those are the Rc11: Finally, as I asked before, the canting assembly on the Deeluxe NON-700 I showed in the last post, do some of you guys happen to know if the circular cant assembly is more durable? I hope my Free 69 last some time…
  7. You guys are very nice and knowledgeable. @kibber thank you for the metal sealing washer recommendation. For now, the bolt you see in the picture is just screwed onto the “female” piece I had left in the second picture of the initial post, but it is not locked, which would mean it will unscrew at an unknown pace, which means for now I don’t trust it to go on the hill with it. As I said, surely there is some type of “lockable” bolt, I’ll look into that. Thankfully, I have another pair of boots, the Deeluxe Free 69 (yes the banana coloured renamed Deeluxe 225/325). But the cant assembly is quite different, it seems only the 700 lineup have the half moon thing. Now, do these 225/325 cant assembly tend to fail also? Let me illustrate with a picture. Now, talking about UPZ, I see I can buy a RC11 or RC12 in a spanish website, for 450€ (aprox 480 USD). That seems quite a good price, and I’ve read good things about those 11/12 UPZ, specifically that the buckles are improved compared to other older models of UPZ. Would you buy it? Regarding sizes, I have a 28,3-28,5 mondopoint feet, and been using the Track 700 in euro 44, which had a little too much room, and have the Free 69 in euro 43. The sizing of the UPZ around my mondopoint is either Uk 8,5-9,5 (this is one size) or the immediay upper size is 10-11. Now, my uk size is between 9,5 and 10, which theoretically leaves me in between boot sizes. I know it is better to have less room and a thinner liner, but 9,5 UK is 28 cm MP, and thats the upper maximum range of the 8,5-9,5 size, so dont know what to do. Any recommendations? Thank you! Apart from the buckles, any downside to the UPZ? I don’t mind spending the money, but would like to have boots that last for years! Yes, let’s see what you recommend me for the UPZ sizes. Been looking around, seems 450€ for a RC12 is very very good.
  8. Thanks for the answer. This is me coming back from the hardware store, what do you think? Will the washer destroy the plastic at some point? An added rubber washer might make the whole assembly more durable… Not anything fancy, and not locked in, just a regular bolt and washer, but I’ll find some T bolt that can be locked at some position and amplitude. As far as I’ve read it seems that part of the Deeluxe boots tends to fail quite easily. Besides, buying from Donek and shipping to Spain might be expensive, and doesnt make a lot of sense since Deeluxe is an Austria-based company. I might switch to UPZ in the future if this part fails repeteadly.
  9. Fellow riders, yesterday after a bumpy session on snow I discovered the right canting (the half moon plastic thing) of the left boot was missing. I just have the inner aluminium piece. Now, since I dont use any canting I believe I could go to a hardware store and ask for a fixed t bolt or sth similar and just fix it. Is that a good idea? Would you recommend any type of bolt that leaves the minimum volume on the inside of the boot as to avoid any pressure point. Which type of two piece bolts would you recommend me? I believe it is alomst impossible to buy those pieces from Deeluxe, and I would be suspicious of the durability of the OEM part. So, whatever recommendation would be welcomed. I attach 2 pictures of the now exposed holes.
  10. Male 184 cm 90cm inside leg Stance 53 cm centered on the inserts front 65 deg, rear 60 deg (on 19,5 cm wide F2 WC SL 158) or 60 and 55 on 20 cm wide kessler 168 Deeluxe track 700 boots Toe & Heel lift F2 standard (no idea what degrees they have) no canting
  11. I have been riding motorcycles around 23 years, starting at 16. At 18, legally allowed, I bought my first big displacement bike cause I wanted to feel the rush, but I vividly remember some older biker told me: hey smartass do yourself a favor and ride ALWAYS as if NOBODY could ever see you. I dont know why, but that just stick with me, and it will ever stick. It’s difficult for others to imagine that not being stressful, but it isn’t. I check my 12 (obviously), 3, 6, and 9 every 3-4 seconds, all in an inconscient fluid motion. I know what every mother****er in a car is doing. And that an environment where law applies. But if I get hit from behind and go to heaven/comatose/wheelchair for life/sth broken, will it be any consolation that the guy has to pay a fine or go to jail? NO! Not at all. I understand general concern but, as others have said, at this point there is not much practical decisions we can make apart from be aware always of who is coming from behind. I am on my second season carving, and sometimes when I start to link turns hard charging I forget to check, but I know it can be done. Just a quick glance uphill, specially coming out of toesides. That is the real only thing that will work for now. (It is also worth mentioning it is somewhat difficult to predict how to avoid a carver. It is easy talking from the sofa, but when someone sees a carver his instincts will tell to go through just when he is doing the apex of the turn farthest from his path, but we know what happens next, the carver gets shooted to the other side in less than a second, and the crash happens. I am not blaming us, the carvers, but this sport has that inherent risk, and its due diligence to not pretend everyone will have a prudent behaviour and do our home work)
  12. Glad to see it is normal. Would like to lay a bit more for the fun of it, although I reckon in steep variable conditions remaining fairly upright gives me way more control over bumps. Or saying it in another way, when fully leaned I am more at the “mercy” of unexpected ice, batches, etc. That is something I always try to do but once on the heat of the stuff most always forgot. Noted. Each time you answer some question, 5 other related questions pop in my mind, so I’ll stop here and apply all the tricks and theory I already know but not applying yet. Thank you so much!
  13. Yes indeed. If carving it will just hook and impede going fast unless straight lining. To be honest I thought it would be a funnier board, but my first day was hard. If I start to lean somewhere near the fall line it won’t let me lean further because it turns so fast it just “picks me up” and I find myself standing up again, and going perpendicular to the fall line. Do I need to dive in very early on the turn to be able to lean more? Somewhere in this forum someone mentioned “ride a slalom board as if it was a freecarve board”… how one does that? Dont think so, just not focused on fundamental logic and demonstrations, but more on the applied side. Not for dummies in any case. Thank you!
  14. Oh I didnt know that, thanks. I think my f2 wc has tighter radius at the tail, and even tighter at the nose, or am I wrong? Is it the case that some boards have a sidecut pattern in nose-center-tail of the type 10-12-11, while others have a crescent pattern of the type 10-11-12? Am I right?
  15. thank you very much for your response. Yes makes sense. I used the F2 WC SL 158 the other day first time and boy does it hooks you, it literally gives you a tremendous slap left and right, one of the ejected me on a high side. Same sense. But freecarve boards have tight (or tightended) Sidecut rdius in the tail, and will however carve at higher speeds. For instance all the coiler contras have not much taper. All in all understood. And yes I am a mathematician (is it my university degreee) and have read the article. I get the general idea, although for me there are too many simplifications (which is probably needed) to draw applied conclusions, otherwise is is extremely complicated to model a physical exercise where an object, a generator (a human) and centripetal and gravity forces act, plus resistance and variable pitch. You must be some engineer, not focused on mathematical purity. Thanks again for your time and knowledge
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