Istvan

My view (and I might be wrong): on a wider board where you can apply lower angles toe/heel lift/cant do not make too much of a sense unless you have a body geometry that needs some adjustments. On narrower boards with angles close and above 60 a properly set toe/heel lift/cant increases comfort level and also helps to find the proper centered position. At least this is my experience..... Best

The weird thing with the Virus boards is that when you first test them they do everything you want them to do even beyond your comfort zone and you get the feeling that you are headed to a huge fall when pushing it to the limits.... what's more, you feel that you should have already crashed but something that is against physics keeps you on top of the board..... I don't know if any of you had this feeling...

You mean Virus boards cause serious addiction? Kinda agree :lol:

Shred, you'll get more quality feedback if you post this on the EC Forum, there are more Europeans. But here are some great places you can go in Europe: Austria: Sölden Pitztal Hintertux Kaprun Italy Livigno Corvara/Colfosco Cervinia Switzerland Zinal Zermatt Davos Saas Fee Grimentz Best

:lol: I like it pretty much... if you don't mind I've put a link to the EC Forum....

You might want to try a Virus.....

Wow.... we've come a long way since then..... ;-)

I managed to brake a shoulder bolt just like on the pic at the beginning of this thread. It happened on the ECS event on a very steep and stiff slope during a laid turn. I'm sure that the screws were tight as I do some edge tuning every day and I also check on the screws. I think that sooner or later every binding will bend / brake under serious usage, it is just a question of time. The good thing in the Bomber TD is that you can get all spare parts replaced - try this with a Snowpro or F2.... ;-) Kindest

Just keep on practicing.... ;) BTW, most probably ski boots are not the best for EC.... Instead of giving you an advice on the techniqe (you can read many threads and stuff on the EC Forum) I would have only one suggestion: try it on a very steep, hard-pack, well groomed and wide slope. That's the kind of slope where you can really practice laying it down and linking it to the next one... As for the techniqe: instead of reading too much of the intellectual masturbation, just watch the videos on the EC site a couple of times in slow motion and pause it sometimes to really see and understand what they do and how they do it.... it helps a lot. Cheers

Welcome to the club.... check out the Swoard our the Virus ME109... Cheers

I think it is way more important how you store the board. Don't keep 'em flat on the base as it might lose camber.... sorry if this was too obvious for you guys. Best, István ps.: I do not really like the idea of heating them under the sun for long hours....

Now you really made me courious - where do u want to get with all the responses....

I think the question itself is not really good as you won't get a good performance having only 2 sections sharp. You can get bad performance and even worse.... Still I feel important to add that section A is really important to achive good edge grip as section A is the first to catch the ice. This is why you should never detune the tip of the board for carving. The rest basically follows the cut made by the tip. Besides section A I do not know if any of B, C, D is more important than the other. Best, István

This is the correct link (master Nils changed something): http://www.extremecarving.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2358 István

Alex, sure they will not promote it, but they are nice people and I guess they have no issues having the link and the pic of your gear on their forum.... just read what Nils wrote.... http://www.extremecarving.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2353 Best, István

Alex, Nice job! Just put a link on the EC site, wider boards are more welcome there... Best, István

I ride the Indys and being around 90 kg I do not find it too stiff. It's really comfy for me and serves the purpose well. In my opinion the spring system is (almost)completely useless on it, therefore I'm about to replace it. Other than that its a great boot. Why would you go for the 5 position adjuster? Best, István

My 2 cents: just don't push your butt out, rather try to rotate with your upper body to the direction you are turning. What also helps: turn your head towards where you wanna go. If you still want to touch the snow, then don't focus on touching it with only your left palm (in case you are regular), because then you'll end up reaching for the snow and pushing your butt out. Instead try to touch the snow with both palms - that will help you with the proper rotation. Don't try to touch the snow behind your butt, reach a bit more forward to the tip. It'll help. Cheers, István

Hi Nils, just saw that you posted the same ;-)

IMHO detuning tip/tail decreases edge grip. I think you should never detune tip/tail once you reach a level that you can carve continously without the danger of catching an edge accidentaly. On the sides you can go up to 2-3 degress. The higher you go the more vulnerable the edge gets. Base bevel makes edge transitions easier. Not sure if this is really needed for an advanced recreational carver. Maybe for beginners to protect them to catch an edge accidentaly and for pros for racing. Other benefit of base bevel can be that if you apply 1 degree base bevel you need to take less materiall off the sides to make it sharp. (make a drawing of it, then it'll be obvious taking into account the shape of an edge that is not sharp). Tooltonic has a new device called the 'Icecatcher' (see the attached pic). I think it consumes the edges too much.... but probably this is the best thing for ice. Best, István

My 2 cents: ride flat. In case your boot sticks out, buy a wider board. Best, István

This is one of my previous gloves prepared with a rubber based very cheap glue. It lasted for 2 seasons, but at the end each and every fingertip was covered with glue. Later on I also found some rubber based glue that was black (bought in a diver's shop as Nils suggested). My advice is that when you buy such a glue, open it and check if it is really black - the other day I bought a few and the guy in the shop was 100% sure that they were all black.... no need to say, they were not.... I do not have a pic on the gloves that I covered with this black glue, but it looks so good that you could not tell it from the pic that it is home made. Cheers, István

The best system that you can get: www.tooltonic.com As for the angles, don't make it sharper than 88 degrees, maybe you can add 1 degree bevel. Cheers, István

My 2 cents: if you ride at high angles to the snow and tight turns (e.g. EC) torsional twisting is something you don't want to happen - you'd lose edge grip immediately and slide.... Best, István

Nice stuff Kamran Aren't these boards quite similar as for the specs? Cheers, István