Waxing issue

[Corey]

I waxed my board the other day, and left it to cool overnight. As soon as I started scraping it, this happened:

http://i2.tinypic.com/r7ujgw.jpg

http://i2.tinypic.com/r7vf5c.jpg

It was as if the wax wasn't absorbed into the base, it just sat on top and broke free as soon as pressure was put on it. I tried waxing it again and had the same issue.

What the heck am I doing wrong? Too much heat, too little heat, dull scraper? I haven't had this happen before.

Background info: Volkl Renntiger, Kuu wax iron, Kuu cold conditions wax (2 or 3 years old), Kuu plastic scraper.

[bobdea]

it does that

for better saturation a little more heat and maybe a couple extra passes with the iron

but still it will scale off sometimes if it is a super hard wax, don't worry about it

[Fleaman]

To me, from the location of the patches, it kinda looks like you have some binding suck and your scraper didnt catch it because the board is dished out in those areas under your bindings.

Do you loosen your binding screws before you wax?

All you need to do to wax those areas is to use the tip of the iron and get into those lower spots on the board.

[Neil Gendzwill]

Are you thoroughly melting the wax? It should go transparent and liquid.

[D-Sub]

personally Id say try a soft wax first. something designed to penetrate the base, then maybe drop the cold wax on there.

careful with more heat so you dont burn or seal the base. any chance this has already happened? have you had a base grind then multiple hot scrapes for penetration?

heh. that sounds funny.

[Hans]

I use the same wax. The blue hard wax from KUU. I always clean my boards with a special cleaner from TOKO or BOOSTER before it gets its one big seasonwaxtreatment. So all the old wax will be out off the board/skis.

After waxing your board with the iron: just scrape it till there will be no more wax coming off your board. Just take a hard brush (metal or plastic depends which wax and snowconditions) and after that polish it with a soft brush and cloth. Than it must be okay.

Just another thing. Don't use too much wax. Just drip some wax from your iron on your board and just heat it directly afterwards. Make some fast movements with your iron on your board to spread the wax better and not to heat your board too much at one point too long. After that let your board take the wax for at least a full day before scraping it off. That's the way I wax my board and skis once a year before the season starts. The rest of the time, I use my waxwhizzard with blue KUUwax every day I go out. ( I just make 15 to 20 days in the snow a year, excluded the days in snowworld).

Hope this helps.

Greets, Hans.

[Corey]

Hmm, it's possible the board is a little concave in those areas. The first pictures is at the rear binding, the second picture is near the nose. I don't remove my bindings to wax, I just get the tip of the iron in that area and bend the scraper slightly.

It's reasonable that I just didn't get enough heat in those areas. The wax was transparent and molten, but maybe not long enough. My iron is funny, I think it's concave.

It's possible the base is burnt. I try to keep the board from getting too hot, I prefer multiple passes over one really slow one. The topsheet rarely gets hot, just slightly warm. The base has not been ground, although it's only had about 15 days of riding on it.

Thanks for the tips! I'll try a few hot scrapes with a softer wax to see if it soaks up wax any better. If that doesn't work, it's basegrind time.

[Hans]

Just looks fine to me how you wax it. I also keep the bindings at the board.

Never have stonegrind my boards. I sometimes give it a sandpaper with 400 at places with some repair (scratches). Especially my SWOARD I will never give this one a grind. All my boards are just a little concave. So then I scrape them a little at an angle so I get more wax off.

Greets, hans.

[Kent]

1) You need a stone grind

2) Too much wax

3) I'll also guess your iron is too hot, but that's generalizing....