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how to sharpen a board for ice


groovastic

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Tooltonic.com just released a tool that is designed for ice. Its mostly used by ski racers now, but it seems with good results. Basically the Icecatcher is a tool made of machined aluminium and two rolls of carbid tungsten that are pressed hard by hand against an edge with at least 89°. The harder you press, the bigger bevel it will produce... Check image of the result. Tooltonic guy says it can last pretty long but avoiding rocks is better!

Ice-Catcher.jpg

I have tested it on a board, and the result is incredible, you can feel a small ridge all the way down. Will try as soon as there is ice.. but its mostly powder here these days!

Nils

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IMHO detuning tip/tail decreases edge grip. I think you should never detune tip/tail once you reach a level that you can carve continously without the danger of catching an edge accidentaly.

On the sides you can go up to 2-3 degress. The higher you go the more vulnerable the edge gets.

Base bevel makes edge transitions easier. Not sure if this is really needed for an advanced recreational carver. Maybe for beginners to protect them to catch an edge accidentaly and for pros for racing. Other benefit of base bevel can be that if you apply 1 degree base bevel you need to take less materiall off the sides to make it sharp. (make a drawing of it, then it'll be obvious taking into account the shape of an edge that is not sharp).

Tooltonic has a new device called the 'Icecatcher' (see the attached pic). I think it consumes the edges too much.... but probably this is the best thing for ice.

Best,

István

post-2318-141842216117_thumb.gif

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IMHO detuning tip/tail decreases edge grip. I think you should never detune tip/tail once you reach a level that you can carve continously without the danger of catching an edge accidentaly.

Base bevel makes edge transitions easier. Not sure if this is really needed for an advanced recreational carver. Maybe for beginners to protect them to catch an edge accidentaly and for pros for racing. Other benefit of base bevel can be that if you apply 1 degree base bevel you need to take less materiall off the sides to make it sharp. (make a drawing of it, then it'll be obvious taking into account the shape of an edge that is not sharp).

There is a lot of debate out there regarding detuning. I haven't done it to my new Freecarve yet, but I'm also still running 0/0 for my edge, which I might changeup for next season.

Base bevel definitely makes the transistions easier; coming from a race oriented background I can appreciate the benefits (of detuning, too). I also find it helps on hard/icy surfaces when skidding to a stop. Also, as you mentioned, I really like the base bevel(1 degree) because it allows me to maintain a 90 degree base-to-edge angle, while keeping a "1" on the edge, which helps keep the edge sharper for longer.

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  • 7 years later...

Do any more Carvers have any experience with the Tooltonic Ice-Catcher? I'd love to hear your comments. I'm thinking of buying one. I ride in the eastern USA, mostly. I generally tune my boards with 1 degree base and 3 degree sides.

Thanks, Bricky

Edited by Bricky
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Polish you edges often using a sturdy guide like SVST (my favorites) using a series of diamond stones and if necessary a medium and fine cut file. I like a 2 or a 3 degree side bevel you can go sharper but your edges will dull very quick. That is what I like to do and it is working great

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I am talking about the occasional or frequent patches of gray ice and/or the white hard pack, sometimes covered with a little loose snow, which may disguise it's existence.

Thanks, Bricky

Edited by Bricky
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For general carving on most surfaces a 2 degree side, one degree base will work excellent. Most boards that are ground properly will have some form of base bevel(allows edge to not kill the stone) and is furthur set to the desired base bevel after a grind. Some disciplines like slalom may want a tighter base bevel so the edge starts engaging sooner, some may like to open their base bevel on longer Gs/super G lengths. You can go to three degrees on the side making it very sharp but it will have a tendency to dull quicker and require slightly more maintenance.Overall, 2,1 works well. Once set, polish and maintain with stones or diamond files.

Kent..are you still alive?

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Insane, who has time for that?

While I only buy Toko gear and am certified by them, even I could say that about 80% of their servicing recommendations are overkill for recreational riders, being obviously designed to promote and sell their stuff. Fluoro waxes, sequencing diamond stones, different base grind patterns, brushing with different brushes... a total and complete waste of time and money. No bones about it.

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Insane, who has time for that?

Sidewall planner + 3 stones takes me about 20 minutes. How much time you spend sharpening your edges ?

As for the recommendations you speak of I've never heard of it. This video is about side edges and I still think it's great for someone who is just starting tuning is board. Covers sidewall planner, edge angles and that's it.

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Insane, who has time for that?

Sidewall planner + 3 stones takes me about 20 minutes. How much time you spend sharpening your edges ?

As for the recommendations you speak of I've never heard of it. This video is about side edges and I still think it's great for someone who is just starting tuning is board. Covers sidewall planner, edge angles and that's it.

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Actually, it's not a question of time, but relevance. Nonetheless, I wouldnt spend more than 5 minutes sharpening my edges even if I was in a good mood.

I wasn't specifically referencing the video you posted but the recommendations set out by most manufacturers and sellers of tuning equipment, in this case Toko. You yourself sequence sharpening your edges, which is IMO overkill. Two quick passes with a regular file followed by a couple times with a coarse diamond file is more than any of us need.

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Actually, it's not a question of time, but relevance. Nonetheless, I wouldnt spend more than 5 minutes sharpening my edges even if I was in a good mood.

I wasn't specifically referencing the video you posted but the recommendations set out by most manufacturers and sellers of tuning equipment, in this case Toko. You yourself sequence sharpening your edges, which is IMO overkill. Two quick passes with a regular file followed by a couple times with a coarse diamond file is more than any of us need.

I see what you mean. I was thought by a sequencing maniac that goes to 1600, so I always though I was a slacker.

Still drinking 2 good beers in 5 minutes... you're not even tasting them ! Need more sequencing to enjoy em ;)

Edited by Maxlanaudiere
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  • 2 weeks later...

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