snow|3oarder Posted December 13, 2005 Report Share Posted December 13, 2005 When I ptex scratches, by dripping the candle and then scraping, I can still feel the depression of the scratch. All suggestions/commentary on ptexing are appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
veector Posted December 13, 2005 Report Share Posted December 13, 2005 Well it could be the candle you are using. Usually when i petex bases at the shop i clean it out first, and if necessary i use a cutter to widen up the cut. I then proceed to candle it, try to minimize the red/orange flame, the more blue flame the better. try to get a steady stream with it (like braze welding if you know how to weld). youd want to pile it up a bit, maybe have it a few mm over the base. Let it cool for about a minutes or two and then scrape it with a metal scraper, be slow so you dont loosen the petexed area. scrape base and then you shouldnt be able to see it. Hope that helped, any other questions just ask. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carve4life Posted December 13, 2005 Report Share Posted December 13, 2005 i was going to say the same thing as the previous poster. and also dont try to ptex small scratches cause the small ones are better filled with wax. Ptex doesn't like to bond in tight areas in my experience and like said above they need to be opened up sometimes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobdea Posted December 13, 2005 Report Share Posted December 13, 2005 it helps to have the candle next to the gouge and you let it run in to the gouge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 13, 2005 Report Share Posted December 13, 2005 I find doing several series of drips works best for me. I score the area if needed. Also, I don't scrape it off, I use a really sharp pairing knife while it's still warm and I have had great results. You can't even see where my blemishes are. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MapofTaziFoSho Posted December 13, 2005 Report Share Posted December 13, 2005 I use the above method and scrape off with a Da Kine Metal scraper. Works great for me. Have any of you tried a hot glue gun?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil Gendzwill Posted December 13, 2005 Report Share Posted December 13, 2005 I don't like the candles, I prefer the flat repair sticks and using a wide-tipped soldering iron to melt it in. Way cleaner job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allee Posted December 13, 2005 Report Share Posted December 13, 2005 Widen the gouge out first with a sharp knife, it's a lot easier for the P-Tex to bond in a bowl shape than a straight gouge. Let it cool pretty well before you try and scrape it, or it's just going to rip out. Neil's idea of the soldering iron is good too, it heats the surrounding base material and makes the bond better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snow|3oarder Posted December 13, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2005 what do you guys do with the smaller scratches? just wax and wait for a base grind down the road? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted December 13, 2005 Report Share Posted December 13, 2005 what do you guys do with the smaller scratches? just wax and wait for a base grind down the road? For the most part, yes. Unless it's near the edge, runs across the board, and I notice it while riding - then I fill it. I've left long scratches that run lengthwise for a season plus. Extra structure :) If it's core-deep get it fixed immediately though... and if it leaves a raised edge, flatten it, I use carbide sandpaper to do the flattening and a leaf blower to clean it out. (Leaf blower gets used before doing any ptexing as well. It's a "blunt" tool but it works great for me!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carve4life Posted December 13, 2005 Report Share Posted December 13, 2005 I use the above method and scrape off with a Da Kine Metal scraper. Works great for me. Have any of you tried a hot glue gun?! yeah, when i first started working for my shop years ago, they were using a glue gun. however, repairs turned out like poop. so i soon just switched to torching the candles instead. the glue gun doesn't get hot enough, but you might be able to find a glue gun that gets hotter and it may work, but the cheap ones dont. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-Sub Posted December 13, 2005 Report Share Posted December 13, 2005 there are ptex guns. Mike T has one only thing is, youll run through ptex like it was going out of style before you learn the finesse I think the ribbons/strings and a proper soldering iron are the best bet. probably what Im gonna get. <a href="http://www.tognar.com/base_repair_tools_iron_ptex_gouges_damage.html"target=new>see first two tools here, and a bit down for ribbons and string</a> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted December 13, 2005 Report Share Posted December 13, 2005 there are ptex guns. Mike T has oneonly thing is, youll run through ptex like it was going out of style before you learn the finesse The gun is great for filling large gouges, gouges near the edge, and core shots. It heats the p-tex to a lower temperature - enough to make it ooze, but not drip - so uyou can get away with core contact and edge contact to a certain degree. I've gone over the line a few times, on my rock boards - trying to see how much I could do with it and found out I still use drop candles in the event of small crosswise repairs, and as I said I leave anything lengthwise. I tend to only take my "A" boards out when therechance of dingage is low, so I haven't been faced with the decision of what to do with a nasty ding in an "A" board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hans Posted December 13, 2005 Report Share Posted December 13, 2005 Works fine with me. Have been using powder and candles, done like illustrated over here. http://www.toko.ch/toko/toolsalpine.asp?sid=2# Greets, Hans. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Randy S. Posted December 14, 2005 Report Share Posted December 14, 2005 I have a butane powered base welding torch that I really like. It came with thin strips of p-tex that are easy to work with, both on shallow and deep gouges. I've just been searching for it online and can only find one source. I swear I bought it from Reliable Racing or Race-Werks or Tognar, but I don't see it at any of those places now. Racewerks does have this Butane Torch which looks pretty good and compact (with any of these you buy the butane at a local convenience store or tobacconist). Here's a picture of the one that I have: It is apparently now marketed under the One Ball Jay Name and available HERE. They also have the thin p-tex strips designed to be used with that. Of note. I've visited Race Werks site a couple times recently. Both times there were hardbooter pictures in the upper left corner. Gotta love that. Here are the pics: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-Sub Posted December 15, 2005 Report Share Posted December 15, 2005 onl;y problem with a flame is you can easily mess up your base quite badly... seems less likely with a soldering iron or ptex gun? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snow|3oarder Posted December 15, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2005 I didnt realize, although it occurred to me, that ptex should be used so sparingly. Good thing I asked this before I ptexed every nook and cranny. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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