Waxing

[ITALIAN_MARC]

Any recommendations for good wax that gives you performance but doesn't rub off after a few runs? 

Edited June 5, 2017 by ITALIAN_MARC

[Neil Gendzwill]

Any decent hot wax job should last several days, not just a couple of runs.

[Corey]

Do you ride on very cold, man-made snow?  I do, and it strips wax for about a cm (1/2 inch) of the base near the edges surprisingly fast.  Hot wax would last for 1/2-day at most before being stripped off near the edges.  

I use wax rated for the coldest temps I can find.  Then I crayon it on near the edges and buff it in aggressively with a Wax Whizard (now Pro-Glide) a couple of times (at room temperature) before a day of riding.  Then I add whatever wax is appropriate for conditions for the rest of the base and buff it in as well.  Works great!  But you still need to do the section near the edges daily.  The stuff in the middle lasts until the weather changes enough to need a different wax.  

I don't understand how or why it's more durable than hot-waxing, but it seems to.  The crayon-and-buff technique also uses a fraction of the wax, is much faster, and there's zero mess.  I haven't used a wax iron in 5+ years and don't miss it.  However, I plan on doing a hot scrape this fall as there's probably lots of dirt trapped in the base by now.  

[breeseomatic]

Issues in longevity are usually an application issue or wrong wax for the conditions. Any high quality wax for your temp range should be fine.  Like Corey stated, if you are on mostly cold or man made stuff, you need a harder wax.  If you are on warm wet stuff then a high fuorinated wax would do you better.

For hot waxing and scraping, softer wax is easier but may not be applicable to your weather/snow conditions. 

Corey mentioned the wax wizard and I was just introduced to one this winter. I was able to wax 4 boards in the time of one and use far less wax in the process. I suggest a wax wizard for application and Dominator wax sold by your friends at Bomber.  The Renew G stuff is really nice for base conditioning, I put Zoom on top of that.

For hot scraping and base cleaning, use the cheap Hertel Hot Sauce from Amazon. 

[ITALIAN_MARC]

Ye do ride a lot of hard man made snow well some times more like ice.lol. thanks for the reposes everyone

[Corey]

I suspect you could also use an old-school cork and get similar results to the Wax Whizard, but you need to push harder to generate enough heat.  

Has anyone tried basic paraffin wax (for canning) to do a hot scrape.  That stuff is really cheap!  

[ITALIAN_MARC]

I'll try the cork, nice one ?

[Lurch]

Corey that link you shared to Tognar (http://www.tognar.com/d-i-y-database) had some really interesting stuff thanks.

Never heard of micro-grooving an edge; learn something new every day!

[BlueB]

On 6/6/2017 at 7:14 AM, corey_dyck said:

Has anyone tried basic paraffin wax (for canning) to do a hot scrape.  That stuff is really cheap!  

That's all I use for 90% of my riding. But it seldom goes below -7-8C here, mostly just sub 0C.... 

Edited June 9, 2017 by BlueB

[ITALIAN_MARC]

On 2017-6-6 at 3:14 PM, corey_dyck said:

I suspect you could also use an old-school cork and get similar results to the Wax Whizard, but you need to push harder to generate enough heat.  

Has anyone tried basic paraffin wax (for canning) to do a hot scrape.  That stuff is really cheap!  

Just used a cork, safe to say I've used arm muscles i haven't for a while ?

[davekempmeister]

Cork is hard work but it works well, especially if you  get the board to exactly the right temp.  Not sure what temp that it is but there is a specific temp at which any given wax is most easily worked in.   a degree too much and it smears, too cool and it is either impervious to the cork or it sort of bunches up under the cork.  

fresh cut cork will leave some debris behind.