Michael Pukas Posted February 12, 2017 Report Share Posted February 12, 2017 (edited) For sale is my original Madd 158 Slalom that I purchased brand new from Back Bay Bikes and Boards near or on Newbury Street circa 1998, just before I left Boston for the Rockies. I rode the board a couple of times in New England, and a handful of times in Utah and Colorado. It hasn't seen snow since about 2001. Probably not been on the snow more than 50 days total. Turned at a shop once, tuned by me a few times. Never any aggressive edge or base grinding. There are some cosmetic blems on the carbon, top sheet and base. Edges and side walls are all solid, barring a base gouge that needs filling. The inserts are the original brass, I believe but not certain, and are showing rust in some places. Since I have no idea of what the actual street value for this board is today, but I have an idea of what I'd like to get for it based on hype, I'm proposing this idea as a first shot at selling this board - sort of a silent auction. For the next week, email or PM me your best offer. If you really want this board, you can tell me you'll match offers up top a certain price. If a higher offer than yours in presented. I'll email you back and tell what that offer was, but not from who, and you can decide to match plus some amount, or not. If no acceptable offers are presented during the first week, I'll extend it for another week, in case some buyers did not have a chance to see the listing. If after 2 weeks, it still has not sold, I'll post a list price or best offer. Buyer pays actual shipping fees, and I'll ship it anywhere. If you live in Colorado, we can arrange to meet in person. I'll accept PayPal, check, money order, or cash if we meet in person. PayPal transactions will add 2.9% for transaction fee. For checks, I'll deposit the check and wait for it to clear before the board is shipped. Photobucket Library - more detailed pics. email me at: michael at mppdesignshop dot com Let me know if I can answer questions or would like other pics. Thanks for looking! mpp Edited February 13, 2017 by Michael Pukas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davekempmeister Posted February 13, 2017 Report Share Posted February 13, 2017 (edited) are the inserts brass ? brass doesn't rust. Edited February 13, 2017 by davekempmeister Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beckmann AG Posted February 13, 2017 Report Share Posted February 13, 2017 ^DKM, The inserts are brass, but are so recessed below the top sheet that standard length binding screws would be too short. Would not be surprised if longer common steel fasteners were sourced from the local hardware store, and if so, those would leave rusty residue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Brammer aka PSR Posted February 13, 2017 Report Share Posted February 13, 2017 (edited) Yeah, and the brass will look dark as well, but Erik is quite correct about sub-standard but longer hardware leaving a film of rust behind. Just Q-tip in a little super-light oil (like used on elec. razors, or Olive oil, even), then swab again with a dry Q-tip. Anyone buying this deck would want be to certain they've got 7mm-8mm of bolt thread reaching down into the insert holes. Note that the TD-1's didn't 'cookie-cutter' the board, as that topsheet is fairly tough. Edited February 22, 2017 by Eric Brammer aka PSR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davekempmeister Posted February 13, 2017 Report Share Posted February 13, 2017 That is good news. Can only help the sale. I regretted my post there for a moment. Sorry Mr Pukas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Brammer aka PSR Posted February 13, 2017 Report Share Posted February 13, 2017 (edited) 16 minutes ago, davekempmeister said: "That is good news. Can only help the sale. I regretted my post there for a moment" Well, yeah, pretty unique insert system, so... BTW, IF you ever start to notice the threads 'loosening', or did slight cross-thread oops, you can re-tap it at a 1/4-28 tpi threading (as compared with 25 tpi for M-6 1.00), and it's only a few thousandths difference in diameter or pitch. Most Stainless Steel is a good bit harder than the hardened brass, so the threads can 'stretch' with over-tightening in the inserts, but the inserts are bigger than usual, so, even going up to 8mm-1.25 bolts is possible on these boards. Edited February 13, 2017 by Eric Brammer aka PSR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nekdut Posted February 13, 2017 Report Share Posted February 13, 2017 57 minutes ago, Eric Brammer aka PSR said: Well, yeah, pretty unique insert system, so... BTW, IF you ever start to notice the threads 'loosening', or did slight cross-thread oops, you can re-tap it at a 1/4-28 tpi threading (as compared with 25 tpi for M-6 1.00), and it's only a few thousandths difference in diameter or pitch. Most Stainless Steel is a good bit harder than the hardened brass, so the threads can 'stretch' with over-tightening in the inserts, but the inserts are bigger than usual, so, even going up to 8mm-1.25 bolts is possible on these boards. This is great info. This might make my 180 usable again! I was looking into helicoiling but have been putting it off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Brammer aka PSR Posted February 13, 2017 Report Share Posted February 13, 2017 1 hour ago, nekdut said: This is great info. This might make my 180 usable again! I was looking into helicoiling but have been putting it off. Use a flat-end Tap, and if unfamiliar with tapping conditioned metal such as harder Brass, find a Machine Shop to do this. You need at least 4 continuous thread cycles to hold, so be sure the tap used isn't 'tapered' with more that one thread pitch/revolution, or you'll come up short in thread depth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertAlexander Posted February 13, 2017 Report Share Posted February 13, 2017 flat end tap = bottoming tap and once the new threads are started and the bottoming tap bottoms, you can always improvise the bottoming tap some with a grind wheel...etc, as even the bottoming tap does not go completely to the bottom, be careful. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolf Posted February 13, 2017 Report Share Posted February 13, 2017 I'd be worried about cutting fluid getting into the core or under the top sheet, so if it were me I'd try using the tap dry. Use a new sharp tap, and back it out frequently to clear chips with compressed air. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertAlexander Posted February 13, 2017 Report Share Posted February 13, 2017 inserts are blind hole Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Brammer aka PSR Posted February 13, 2017 Report Share Posted February 13, 2017 (edited) On 2/13/2017 at 9:33 AM, Wolf said: I'd be worried about cutting fluid getting into the core or under the top sheet, so if it were me I'd try using the tap dry. Just use a few dabs of very light oil. The inserts are solid to the bottom, not bored through. So diligent use of one oily q-tip, and a few dry ones, plus perhaps a burst of air, will suffice. You aren't 'cutting new threads' going from M-6-1.00 to 1/4"-28tpi, as the pitch is very similar, and as I wrote earlier, the diameters are within a few thousandths of each other. The tap should go in with little fuss, following the old thread the first three turns or so (and, if it's of a high effort, you're goofing it!). Also, you should specifically note (with a sharpie, or by coloring with fingernail polish) which insert got 'converted' to US threading, as an M-6 bolt would still "fit", partially! Going up to 8mm-1.25 is a thread cutting Op, as is 5/16"-24tpi, so be careful if That Step is needed! Anyone who had an old 80's vintage Sims probably knows all too well that an M-6 screw can easily thread Into a 1/4"-28tpi insert, and then bind, and get stuck after about 5 turns (about 5mm in) !! Sucks when That Happens! Edited February 22, 2017 by Eric Brammer aka PSR 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Pukas Posted February 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2017 bumping this sale... very little interest so far, so I'm gonna leave it hanging out here for now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Pukas Posted March 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2017 There's still been very little interest in this deck. So, I'll throw out an asking price and see what response I get - any one interested in this deck at $750? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Brammer aka PSR Posted March 6, 2017 Report Share Posted March 6, 2017 This is an Iconic piece of history in our sport. Having had the opportunity to put in 14 years of very aggressive carving on one (of two 158's I've owned; also I had an early 170, and thanks to Shaggy, a Carbon-top BX, which I still own. I also 'sampled' a bunch of the "demo" boards that JG entrusted to me while i was working at Stratton, including 2 180's),, I can Vouch this is an amazing board to ride and own, IF your legs can keep up with it! I see no obvious flaws in this particular deck, so, I hope, for the seller here, the insert issue isn't any longer an 'issue'. The base, well, it's, um, unique, almost surreal in it's ability to deflect wear+tear. So, only thing to be casually concerned with is edge rust, or, perhaps bonding as the board ages? Neither should be a worry at point-of-sale, just, well, boards do get on with age... Whether the $$$ asked for is right, I guess is in how you view the performance of this board. On a scale of 1-10, '10' being excellent, I give it an eleven. If I could, I'd buy it! "PSR" 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CMC Posted March 6, 2017 Report Share Posted March 6, 2017 I have successfully replaced inserts on the original 158s without any issues. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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