1xsculler Posted March 7, 2016 Report Share Posted March 7, 2016 Can the TD2/TD3 rear step-in mechanism be adapted to Catek OS2s? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neanderthal Posted March 7, 2016 Report Share Posted March 7, 2016 Man you are on my vibe - I love the adjustability of catek and the steel TD heel! Someone make this happen and I am in for a set Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corey Posted March 7, 2016 Report Share Posted March 7, 2016 With a machine shop or a skilled person - yes. The hole spacing is different. They just need to do a second countersunk hole closer to the center (for each hole) in the red aluminum bar, then widen the slots in the steel piece. The key is finding a small machine shop that is willing to take on such a small job. A friend in upper NY found a shop after many months of searching. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1xsculler Posted March 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2016 The ease and range of adjustability of my Cateks is exactly my reason for wanting to do this. I'm a competent DIYer and I have a drill press so it sounds like a project worth tackling. Thanks for the input. I'll let you know how it turns out once I decide on a pair of boots. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corey Posted March 7, 2016 Report Share Posted March 7, 2016 I recall seeing pictures on here some time ago. Maybe it was Todd Brown that did this? A drill press and some precision should lead to success! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJCdice Posted March 7, 2016 Report Share Posted March 7, 2016 I own OS2's and I am also a dense person. What is the gain here? A flexier intec interface of steel instead of aluminum block? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1xsculler Posted March 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2016 (edited) Easy in, easy out, I guess, would be the only advantage. Edited March 7, 2016 by 1xsculler Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corey Posted March 8, 2016 Report Share Posted March 8, 2016 The aluminum blocks wear from the steel pins on Fintec heels. The steel receivers wear very well. Not an issue with plastic F2 Intec heels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jl1 Posted March 8, 2016 Report Share Posted March 8, 2016 Do not forget you are going to need step in toe bails also, they are not the same as the rear non step in bails. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolf Posted March 10, 2016 Report Share Posted March 10, 2016 I've done this modification. With a Dremel tool and some patience, you can widen the slots in the TD3 heel receiver to accomodate the closer spacing of the Catek mounting screws. You also need to lengthen the slots in the red "lock bracket" that holds the heel receivers down. The height above the heel block comes out just right without modification. It works really well. Widening the slots in the heel receiver just enough to clear the Catek screw spacing means that the receiver is still secured in the side-to-side direction, and the modified lock bracket secures the heel receiver in the front-back direction. And the parts still work with TD3s as well. The gain is that the holes in the original aluminum heel receivers eventually wear and you can't buy replacements any more. So this is a way to keep those Cateks going. And yes, you need the correct toe bails if you want to convert rom standard to step-in. Heel bails won't work. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjnakata Posted March 10, 2016 Report Share Posted March 10, 2016 I've done this modification. With a Dremel tool and some patience, you can widen the slots in the TD3 heel receiver to accomodate the closer spacing of the Catek mounting screws. You also need to lengthen the slots in the red "lock bracket" that holds the heel receivers down. The height above the heel block comes out just right without modification. It works really well. Widening the slots in the heel receiver just enough to clear the Catek screw spacing means that the receiver is still secured in the side-to-side direction, and the modified lock bracket secures the heel receiver in the front-back direction. And the parts still work with TD3s as well. The gain is that the holes in the original aluminum heel receivers eventually wear and you can't buy replacements any more. So this is a way to keep those Cateks going. And yes, you need the correct toe bails if you want to convert rom standard to step-in. Heel bails won't work. Hey Wolf, Would you post pics? This will be an up-and-coming issue for me too. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolf Posted March 15, 2016 Report Share Posted March 15, 2016 Renzo, I waited to check with Angie and Jim about posting photos, since they are good enough to give us this forum. Angie said it's OK, just "voids all warranties related to the Bomber product". So give me a couple of days and I'll take some pictures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolf Posted March 24, 2016 Report Share Posted March 24, 2016 So here are some photos of my heel receiver modification. Someone with access to a machine shop could certaintly do a more professional looking job. As I mentioned, I checked with Angie at Bomber about this and she said this "voids all warranties related to the Bomber product". Also, wear safety glasses, hearing protect, don't drink and Dremel, etc. Catek OS2 with Bomber TD3 Heel Receiver Catek OS2 with Bomber TD3 Heel Receiver Standard Parts on Left, Modified Parts on Right After widening the slots in the red lock bracket pieces, I touched up the ground areas with a red magic marker to make it look prettier. The slots in both pieces were done with the Dremel Tool. There are some scratches in the red piece where I slipped. I could get a bigger 4.5 inch angle grinder in to do the scallop shaped cutouts to give clearance for the Catek lift adjust screws (way faster than the Dremel). Make the slots in the silver heel receiver just wide enough to allow the mounting screws to fit. That way, the screws will constrain the heel receiver from side-to-side motion. Material in Blue Areas Removed with Dremel Tool or Angle Grinder Be thorough in widening the slots in the red lock bracket pieces, and get the conical seats for the screw heads wide enough too. Otherwise, the screw will get a lot of bend when you tighten it, which could lead to fatigue failure of the screw (i.e., the head might break off after several load/unload cycles). Height of Boot Using TD3 Heel Receiver The height comes out pretty much perfect without needing any shims or spacers. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corey Posted March 24, 2016 Report Share Posted March 24, 2016 Nice work! That's pretty impressive with a dremel and an angle grinder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolf Posted March 24, 2016 Report Share Posted March 24, 2016 Nice work! That's pretty impressive with a dremel and an angle grinder. Thanks. I hope it goes without saying that the parts were held in a bench vise as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neanderthal Posted March 24, 2016 Report Share Posted March 24, 2016 Note to bomber crew Angie & Jim - How about an incremental update to an already awesome product which could make it more versatile for the carving community? Necessary revision clearly demonstrated above and I will order the first two sets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjnakata Posted March 25, 2016 Report Share Posted March 25, 2016 Wow Wolf, that's great! thanks for sharing that. I can see where "it takes a steady hand." to make it as finished looking as you did. I notice my aluminum receivers are quickly being eroded, not so much by the retractable pins as I assumed, but by the fixed seat pins. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Brammer aka PSR Posted March 26, 2016 Report Share Posted March 26, 2016 As a machinist, this is an easy 'parts upgrade', mechanically. The issue, for an improved market product that fits Catek, Bomber, F-2, and possibly others, would be in the hands of lawyers; As If They understand a MM from an Inch!, Oh well... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolf Posted March 26, 2016 Report Share Posted March 26, 2016 Angie and Jim aren't in the business of making replacement parts for equipment that they don't make as the OEM. I think we should be happy that they don't mind us talking about ways to modify their parts to fit another brand. Now if somebody wanted to offer to do the modifications as an aftermarket service, that might be feasible. But realistically, even without a machine shop, probably the best way to get a modified heel receiver would be to invest in a Dremel tool and an hour or two of time and just do what I did. Also, I remembered that some of the work I did on the red lock bracket was done by hand with a round file. I basically widened the slot with the file, then sculpted the conical seat with the Dremel. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Christian Posted March 26, 2016 Report Share Posted March 26, 2016 Just a short note: A few years back Fin had this heel piece as a replacement part for all catek owners in his shop. I bought it here. I think it was in 2009. Sold it together with my broken catek a year or so later. Christian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.