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Looking for replacement front bail for old Burton binding


speleoluc

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Hi,

 

I had lent an old Burton carving board to my daughter-in-law but one front plastic bail broke (the other one had been replaced long ago). I'm now looking for a replacement bail that can be installed unto the steel wire without removing the latter as the whole thing is riveted down and cannot be disassembled. I attached a pic.

 

The wire diameter is 5mm or 0.2".

 

Regards,

 

 

--

Luc Le Blanc

 

post-5781-0-50723400-1455996217_thumb.jp

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In years past, I found that the plastic toe clip from a Wombat brand binding will snap into place as a replacement.  But I would be careful as the toe clip on your other binding has probably also become brittle and is liable to break soon too.  And keep in mind that those older Burton bindings are best suited for a lighter or less aggressive rider.  They work fine, but can break if ridden hard.

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Carve Company bought the rights to the Ibex binding which was basically the Burton binding. Your bindings are the cheaper Burton model and have a different toe and heel block than the Carve Company...

 

http://www.carvecompany.com/index.php?id=shop-overview&L=1

My advice is to bite the bullet and throw down some scratch on a new set of bindings.

Edited by *Ace*
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Note that a normal Ibex/Burton toe clip won't work because the bail on this specific model binding is permanently attached to the toe block.  He would need a toe clip that can be attached without removing the bail (after breaking off the remaining pieces of the current toe clip).  But that is an old binding and replacing it entirely would be the safest thing to do.  Or buy one of Steven's sets cheap.

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Jeff,

 

Look at the photo of the underside of the same binding in this post:

 

http://forums.bomberonline.com/index.php?/topic/40703-burton-carrier-standard-plate-bindings/?hl=carrier

 

The toe block is permanently riveted to the base plate, in a slot allowing quick adjustment for boot length.  And there are no screw heads on the top side of the toe block where you'd expect them to be.  So the bail is trapped, unless you grind off the rivets.  It's not the standard Burton/Ibex where the toe and heel blocks are screwed down into a selection of threaded holes.  An instructor buddy of mine and I actually keep an old Burton board with these quick-adjust bindings at the hill for people to try.

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Jeff,

 

Look at the photo of the underside of the same binding in this post:

 

http://forums.bomberonline.com/index.php?/topic/40703-burton-carrier-standard-plate-bindings/?hl=carrier

 

The toe block is permanently riveted to the base plate, in a slot allowing quick adjustment for boot length.  And there are no screw heads on the top side of the toe block where you'd expect them to be.  So the bail is trapped, unless you grind off the rivets.  It's not the standard Burton/Ibex where the toe and heel blocks are screwed down into a selection of threaded holes.  An instructor buddy of mine and I actually keep an old Burton board with these quick-adjust bindings at the hill for people to try.

 

That's messed up! How do you adjust, but more importantly, how do you secure the toe/heel pieces once adjusted?

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J. D., there's a flip latch on the top of the toe/heel blocks, and it clamps down on the teeth underneath. It's secure in holding the length adjustments. 

 

In my previous post, I noted F-2 toeclips would fit (easily, btw), and I've been scouring my many storage boxes for my older Rad-Air/F-2, 5mm-bail plates. Can't find them, though. I would suspect, but can't say without the parts in hand, that old Snow-Pro or Phiokka toeclips would work as well. The issue would be the fulcrum length of said toeclip and bail. If it's too short, the bail would then be too long, and the boot's toe would lift. The early Burton raceplate (1994-95) had a toeclip that, like the F-2, was two-piece, with a retention bar screwed into place.

 

Post '96-to-present Burton/Ibex slide sideways off the bail, so won't work unless you do this...

 

One option is to replace the press-fit pins and washers with 6mm bolts and T-nuts, mounted T-nut on top. Minor machine grinding of the T-nut would be required, and Permanent Threadlock would be the smart way to keep it from loosening.

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Note that a normal Ibex/Burton toe clip won't work because the bail on this specific model binding is permanently attached to the toe block.  He would need a toe clip that can be attached without removing the bail (after breaking off the remaining pieces of the current toe clip).  But that is an old binding and replacing it entirely would be the safest thing to do.  Or buy one of Steven's sets cheap.

 

Not finding a bail in a few local shops, I'll probably do that (drill the rivets, install a slide-on bail I already have and use stainless steel screws and Loctite). If that doesn't work, I'll contact Steven.

 

The front bail was replaced long ago by a sturdy two-piece model that didn't require to be slid unto the wire.

 

This board is used 2-3 times a year by a 100-lbs 15-year old girl. If I were to replace the bindings, I'd replace the board as well and we'd end up with a 4x4 hole pattern. So in the meantime, there's no reason to put much money in that board/binding.

 

Thanks for all answers.

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