johnstewart Posted February 2, 2005 Report Share Posted February 2, 2005 My first attempt at stitching an image together. I've got another one I'm working on that is 8 or so pics of an entire race course. The photographer is awesome. Problem I've not sorted out there is how to get the levels set equally across the pictures so there is no seam. With this one, there wasn't much difference in brightness/hue/saturation, etc... only the leftmost image was slightly off. Anyone know a good way to get Photoshop to even out the levels between images? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack M Posted February 2, 2005 Report Share Posted February 2, 2005 You might try Panorama Factory to create a panorama first that you can use as a background. It will be all but seamless, and I *think* it adjusts exposure of the frames. http://www.panoramafactory.com/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Frappe Posted February 2, 2005 Report Share Posted February 2, 2005 Photoshop has an autolevel feature, in Image -> Adjustments. I don't use it a lot, but that may help? that looks pretty good for a first try Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnstewart Posted February 2, 2005 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2005 Originally posted by Frappe Photoshop has an autolevel feature, in Image -> Adjustments. I don't use it a lot, but that may help? that looks pretty good for a first try Well, that would seem to adjust the levels for that particular image (or layer, perhaps), but the problem is that it will pick different selections for different images. I need to find some way to point to a particular pixel and tell it to make that the same color in both layers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-Sub Posted February 2, 2005 Report Share Posted February 2, 2005 like a compressor for audio! or a preset EQ. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mirror70 Posted February 2, 2005 Report Share Posted February 2, 2005 What camera are you using? Many P&S cameras have ways to lock the exposure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coldrider Posted February 2, 2005 Report Share Posted February 2, 2005 You might try image>adjustments>curves for each separate layer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnstewart Posted February 2, 2005 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2005 Okay, here's the big one. The original on this is HUGE... 7995x6331! I'm going to see what I can find out about getting this printed out in a large format. The photographer used a Canon D10, I think... it's a high end digital SLR, and the guy had some seriously good glass to go with it! My photoshopping leaves a little to be desired, but it came out well. Looking at it on a monitor just doesn't give enough resolution to appreciate the detail. It's too bad the forum only allows a width up to 600... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outsider Posted February 2, 2005 Report Share Posted February 2, 2005 there was a great article on how to create these type of images in Transworld Snowboarding not too long ago. Talked about everything you might want to know about how to make em Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strider Posted February 2, 2005 Report Share Posted February 2, 2005 That first pic set is great. Just wondering why you're 10 feet outside the gate. :D After lookin at the time-lapse set for the entire course I got another idea for your toe-sides. Drop me a liner and I'll reply later. Sweet sets though...we gotta get him to come out for a MOnday night or Sunday afternoon race sometime. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patmoore Posted February 2, 2005 Report Share Posted February 2, 2005 Hey Outsider, Do you know which issue had the article? They have an online listing and we could probably access it there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnstewart Posted February 2, 2005 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2005 Originally posted by $trider That first pic set is great. Just wondering why you're 10 feet outside the gate. :D Yeah.... dunno... it does look that way; it didn't feel that way. I do know I was getting way early on thost first few gates, which gave me a nice line for the rest of the course. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boostertwo Posted February 3, 2005 Report Share Posted February 3, 2005 Good job on the photosequences. Hope to see more as you develop your skills! I think the first image works a bit better to show a flow of movement. To my eye, the second is a bit too spaced-out to really capture the rider's movement through the course. For additional ideas as to how to compose your image (as well as get inspiriation from seeing some of the world's best skiers on-course doing what they do best), you might want to check out Ron LeMaster's website. It's great stuff! I highly recommend Ron's book The Skier's Edge. It is, IMO, the best book out there that explains, in simple language, how skiing (or, by extrapolation, snowboarding) works. Great images as well! Check it out. You'll be glad you did! <img src="http://tinypic.com/1j3qpu"> Hope it's snowing where you are! Cheers, B-2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outsider Posted February 3, 2005 Report Share Posted February 3, 2005 Originally posted by patmoore Hey Outsider, Do you know which issue had the article? They have an online listing and we could probably access it there. i will check my old issues to see which one it was. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnstewart Posted February 3, 2005 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2005 Originally posted by boostertwo Good job on the photosequences. Hope to see more as you develop your skills! I think the first image works a bit better to show a flow of movement. To my eye, the second is a bit too spaced-out to really capture the rider's movement through the course. Just FYI... I was the rider (and photoshopper), *not* the photographer. And it *was* a gold-medal run: http://www.nastar.com/index.jsp?pagename=raceresults&race=38430&year=2005 And I like the big one - it's such high-res, I can print this out in REALLY large format and still get great detail. I'm gonna try that tonight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patmoore Posted February 3, 2005 Report Share Posted February 3, 2005 Nice job John, It isn't often that the pacesetter gets beat by someone on a board. Way to go! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnstewart Posted February 3, 2005 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2005 Originally posted by patmoore It isn't often that the pacesetter gets beat by someone on a board. Way to go! Thanks. =) I was razzing the pacesetter, who was also running the NASTAR course that day, about that. He said he was gonna have his 18 year old daughter run the pace the next day, so I would have more of a challenge. However, I never had a chance... the next morning I took an unplanned trip off-piste at mach 10, and had the worst crash in my life. Blood everywhere and lucky the rock in my back didn't bruse my kidney (had it been 4 inches to the right it would have hit my spine and I doubt I'd be walking now). Just stopped taking the Vicodin last night. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philw Posted February 3, 2005 Report Share Posted February 3, 2005 You can generally do it by dealing with all the images the same way, or adjust each layer by hand. The automagic way is: Image->Adjustments->Match colour Have fun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason_watkins Posted February 8, 2005 Report Share Posted February 8, 2005 Best simple panorama tool I've seen to date: http://www.autostitch.net/ Unforetunately, it's merging system isn't aware of what we want for multi-exposure action sequences, so moving objects end up ghosted. But it might be useful for you guys to just put together a quick sequence in a couple seconds, and it spits out a text file of the tramsform parameters for each image. Any geeks on here wanna write a quick app to parse that and do a smarter segmentation? I'll put it on the neverending list of projects I'll likely not get around to ;). And of course if you just want the glamor landscape shot, this thing is extremely easy (though slightly lower quality than photoshop by hand). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason_watkins Posted February 8, 2005 Report Share Posted February 8, 2005 Here's an example. I think with a little tweaking on the merge settings the 'halos' could go away. But not the ghosting of moving objects. Definately not nearly as good as the totally by hand method, but it's instant, and might be useful as a guide image to by hand warping. Rider Credit: Kenny T. Photo Credit: Bryan of www.oldsnowboards.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maciek Posted February 8, 2005 Report Share Posted February 8, 2005 Originally posted by mirror70 What camera are you using? Many P&S cameras have ways to lock the exposure. That actually does not help much if you know how CCD sensor works. You will lock exposure and overexpose scenes in bright light. It will work like looking directly into sun. Even a human eyes adjusts "exposure" although it has peripheral view. The better apraoch is vary exposure slightly between frames and perhaps do it differently where frames are stiched. That is not as simple task even with advanced features of Photoshop. Now if the all pictures are far from being bright due to sunlight, setting exposure to the same value may help. By the way, exposure on scenes taken in the snowy montaiins are usually difficult. to do it right you usually need to set your camera to overexposure by 1-2 stops. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maciek Posted February 8, 2005 Report Share Posted February 8, 2005 Canon PowerShots (for sure A85) comes with "stitching mode" and software to stich frames. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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