jtslalom Posted February 23, 2013 Report Share Posted February 23, 2013 2stroke, I haven't ridden in a pair of soft bindings I didn't like. For me they are pretty much all the same. My preference is Ride bindings. I have a pair of double agents, a pair of Revolts and an old pair of Lt's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueB Posted February 23, 2013 Report Share Posted February 23, 2013 I think that will probably be the ultimate option, but here is a problem with going that route and something that has been brought up in the snowboarding is dying/ how do we promote alpine riding type threads and that is that it is an "all in" proposition. Also buying 5-6oo dollar boots sight unseen and my wife has never hardbooted, at least I have back in the day when HB's was a rental option. I found a place up in Mammoth that demos AT boots, this might be a way to get her to taste it. The boots I suggested go for $50-100 used, same as the bindings, so far from braking the bank... It is really a "soft boot setup" that pretends to be hard boots, just a bit more responsivness and support. You can even use it on the same board that she's got now... AT boots can work too, they are pretty soft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmartshopper Posted February 23, 2013 Report Share Posted February 23, 2013 For me they are pretty much all the same. I agree... Softboot bindings don't make that much of a difference. Find something comfortable and spend your money on good boots. Add these if you have skinny legs: tongue_pads The difference between 10 year old Burton Missions and Catek FR2 pro's is really just not that much. Only exception being cant/lift in cateks. Wasn't worth all the negatives with the FR2's, so I sold them and just use $6 plastic construction shims to get some rear heel lift. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Stevens Posted February 23, 2013 Report Share Posted February 23, 2013 I agree... Softboot bindings don't make that much of a difference. As your wife is likely lighter than the average rider here, the above is no doubt true for her. Go for comfort and size. Anyone else over 175 lbs, or expert, should disregard that statement. The difference between glass, carbon, or aluminum is obviously shocking. Ride on a pair of Cartels? I don't think so. Anyone who's actually paid attention to the gap between baseplate and topsheet in a toe turn, or the flex of the highback on heels has to know that a binding that does neither of these things is a better choice, unless slop is what you're looking for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Apex Insider Posted February 25, 2013 Report Share Posted February 25, 2013 They're not widely available until next season but the 2014 Burton Diodes are just unreal. We got a pair from Burton for an SBX demo day. A lot of World Cup SBX racers are using them. Stiff (carbon fiber high backs), light and comfortable and what I really like about them is their thoughtful engineering and simplicity. They are all business. Detailed review and pics here: http://www.apexsnowboard.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=14 We like them so much, we're going to package them with SBX boards for next season. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gtanner Posted February 25, 2013 Report Share Posted February 25, 2013 I've got a set of 900s in amazing shape that I'm probably going to sell. (also have a ton of extra parts). PM me and I can send you some pics. -Gord Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2stroke Posted February 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2013 Well, I did manage to pick up a pair of Ride Spi at a really cheap price, so there is a start. Next time up, I may set up the plate bindings on her board and have her demo some AT boots just to see how she likes it. Me, I spent my first 2 days on hard boots, had a lot of fun and it will help me on which direction I need which gear. First up, better boots. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crucible Posted February 25, 2013 Report Share Posted February 25, 2013 (edited) Boris is correct on what he said about "softish" hardboot options-I have used Raichle 121's and Raichle 125's with soft Bomber BTS yellow springs for over 20 years as freecarve boots with Burton Race plates or Proflex and F2 plates without problems. The Raichle 121's or an equivalent Dynafit compatible AT boot are what I use when backcountry boarding because the Vibram soles work better with crampons and climbing snowshoes like Verts. The Dynafit compatible soles also make splitboarding more enjoyable, since you can mount Dynafit bindings onto the splitboard and cut out a lot of weight. Edited February 25, 2013 by crucible Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slopestar Posted February 26, 2013 Report Share Posted February 26, 2013 (edited) Thanks for the kind words Theo(king crimson) I'm loving my current set up. 165 bamboo core purchased over the summer from Big Canuck. 23.5 waist with a 8.5ish SCR. This board was based on the Donek FC but I really have not gotten much info from Sean or BC other than it is what it is. I'm riding flow NXT FRX with power plates. Angles are 25/15 with 0/3 cants respectively and yellow elastomers. Stance is 21.5" and is centered on the SCR which is about 155cm. I loved this board and binding combo from the first turn. I only recently added the power plates and it has come alive. This board does not like to skid a turn. Because of the small SCR and stiff core/long eff edge combo, it is very stable and predictable but loves turn. The power plates softened the ride but left it very predictable as well taking a little bit of the squirly nature out. I'm riding small and crowded runs and this board really performs in the steeps where I can get away from the crowd. Switch riding is also no problem. I'm digging it and looking forward to letting it run at a bigger mountain before seasons end. It's heavy and damp and I like it. Changes for the future will be a custom build for sure. Inserts for UPM will be added and the shape will evolve but this deck was the right place for me to start building from. video is Pre-powerplates Edited February 27, 2013 by slopestar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowboardingJ Posted March 4, 2013 Report Share Posted March 4, 2013 We have experience with 90's burton mission, custom, early 2k, burton CFX, late 2k Flow NXT AT, FRX, burton Lexa, last year model Rome Madison, Ride Rodeo Flow and Rome had the least amount of forward lean when set to the max. Burton had the poorest boot out adjustment. The Flows that we have which the forward leans adjustment have design flaw that once you dial them up and it will damage the thread after a couple of runs, then you will no longer be able to adjust them anymore. The ankle support on both of our flow bindings seem kinda poor compare to other bindings when riding with no forward lean. I like the forward lean adjustment on the rome and the ride, takes seconds to adjust on the hill. (heel drag: put less lean, heel side carve washout, put more lean) However, I think the rome forward lean design seems to have a flaw as well. When dial to the max, the notch would get underneath the heel cup under pressure, giving you no forward lean. What I had to do was to leave a gap between the high back and heel cup so that the notch has a better platform on the heel cup. But which would leave a bigger foot print, thus more heel drag. Overall on softboot binding, I like the rodeo adjustability the best except it has a somewhat less support from the ankle strap for aggressive free riding. I think the free ride version may have a beefier ankle strap. The rodeo has more foot padding compare to the madison. I seem to like the madison better which is not too damp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2stroke Posted March 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2013 The Ride SPI came in the mail Friday. I started doing some of the adjustment to get it to fit her boot, I like how the heel cup had a couple different positions to use. Seems like a well put together base and the only small complaint is that the ankle strap release seems a little reluctant. I'll set them up on her board later and we will find out how she likes them in a couple weeks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poutanen Posted March 12, 2013 Report Share Posted March 12, 2013 Sorry to revive this thread, but I've been softboot "carving" for a long time and am very picky about gear. I've had Burton C60s for years and loved them, but I just recently switched to Diodes on my main board. They're marginally softer than the C60s but VERY comfortable. I still have C60s on two of my three boards, but the Diodes get the most use now... I think most softbooters would have trouble carving as hard as I do with them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueB Posted March 12, 2013 Report Share Posted March 12, 2013 ... I think most softbooters would have trouble carving as hard as I do with them. Now you owe us a video! :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poutanen Posted March 12, 2013 Report Share Posted March 12, 2013 Now you owe us a video! :) I boarded with the hardbooters at NES this year! :) Here's a pic. This is with the 2009 C60s on the board, I've got 2012 Diodes on there now and like them a lot! Edit: I know I know, hand position all wrong, body twisted up, I should switch to a forward stance, I've heard it all. :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
breeseomatic Posted March 12, 2013 Report Share Posted March 12, 2013 Looks like a mighty fine carve there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b0ardski Posted March 12, 2013 Report Share Posted March 12, 2013 The extra rotation and resulting tightening of the spine is one of the reasons I went from the original 0* back foot to forward facing "alpine angles" rather than "freestyle" or duckfoot angles 25 years ago. Is it me or does this look like a hardboot shell attached to canted plates while your walking around in lace-up boot liners. Again, I thought plates were way less hassle than straps 25 yrs ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poutanen Posted March 12, 2013 Report Share Posted March 12, 2013 The extra rotation and resulting tightening of the spine is one of the reasons I went from the original 0* back foot to forward facing "alpine angles" rather than "freestyle" or duckfoot angles 25 years ago. Yeah I did the opposite. Started on forward angles in the early 90s, and slowly went to a symetrical duck stance by the early 2000s. Keep in mind I also ride lots of trees, steeps, chutes, and freestyle. Carving is just one aspect of boarding for me... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b0ardski Posted March 12, 2013 Report Share Posted March 12, 2013 I ride steeps, was doing Alpental backcountry, (steep as it gets), on a Lib grocer with hardshells in 92, no hindrance/all benefit. I do trees chutes and bumps 360s butter turns and switch all the time: at 50 yrs I don't scrape my ptex on steel, or get big air (unless it's a cliff or cornice into deep pow). Duck hurts my knees and feels like an unnatural body position to me and never needed it to ride switch which is it's only application I can see. Not trying to convert soft booters, just never understood the need to bolt the shell to the board and strap in the laceup liners every run. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueB Posted March 13, 2013 Report Share Posted March 13, 2013 Keep in mind I also ride lots of trees, steeps, chutes, and freestyle. Carving is just one aspect of boarding for me... Me too... on hard boots :) I ride them duck when I need/want to and they work fine. I prefer that option only to teach the beginners... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slopestar Posted March 13, 2013 Report Share Posted March 13, 2013 Boardski, Yes. It does. I ride much flatter angles but like the canting. I do ride switch about 30% of the time. I think I can carve toeside/switch better than regular... I had a lot of pain in my front knee when riding hardboots. I have never completely blown a knee but lack cartilage and have had partial tears and water drained off once back in the 90's. Too much angle just did not feel right. Should have some pics and video after this weekend from slushy Southern California to post up. The whole driver X/malamute and stiff binding stuff is somewhat of a farse to me. I feel more connected using flows than I did with Hardboots. The triangle just seems to lock me in where hardboots, albeit poorly fitted, left a disconnected feeling. I plan to take a few easy runs with raceplates mounted to my powerplates just to see if things are any better as I finally got some track 700's that I have only tried once. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTB_DH11 Posted March 13, 2013 Report Share Posted March 13, 2013 Can't wait to watch you tear it up on softies Lance. I feel confident in my ability to carve in soft boots, but I am looking forward to taking it to a higher level learning from you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cousin of Beagle Posted March 23, 2013 Report Share Posted March 23, 2013 (edited) At Cypress Mountain this morning, I tried a 2014 Burton Custom X 158, and 2014 Burton Diodes (medium). I'm 165 pounds, 25 MP boots. The Diodes are definitely solid. I like them. I only did two runs (and not back-to-back), so I'm not sure if they're stiffer than my 2007 Burton C60s. But definitely not a mushy binding. Keep in mind they weren't adjusted with my preferences, because they were brand new out of the box. Burton will be at the hill again tomorrow (Sunday). Edited March 24, 2013 by Cousin of Beagle There's lots of snow here in BC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poutanen Posted March 23, 2013 Report Share Posted March 23, 2013 I only did two runs (and not back-to-back), so I'm not sure if they're stiffer than my 2007 Burton C60s. I've used them back to back with 2009 and 2011 C60s now (I own all three pair on different boards), and the Diodes are slightly softer than the C60s. For me though the big difference is they're more comfortable. I can go a whole day on the diodes with no foot pain, while I have to keep backing the C60s off on the lift to ease the pain. The Diode will be my go to binding until something better comes along. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carvingbassist Posted March 26, 2013 Report Share Posted March 26, 2013 I would highly recommend the burton diodes. good stiffness and response and the heelcup isnt a killer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2stroke Posted March 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2013 Update: Wife has ridden the Ride spi's for the last 2 weekends and she is loving it. Says response is much better except when the toe strap started loosening up on the non buckle adjustment side, retightened, no problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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