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Carving powder


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Same old same old, but this one is shot with a HD2 and ProTune.

Out of the camera than means you get flat colours, noise and blur. I processed it through the GoPro Coineform app (not pleasant to use) to fix the colours, then fettled the noise / sharpening with After Effects. It probably was worth while at full HD, but for Vimeo sized stuff it's probably not.

<iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/57270311?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0" width="900" height="506" frameborder="0" webkitallowfullscreen="" mozallowfullscreen="" allowfullscreen=""></iframe>

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My bank manager probably weeps a bit about all this too ;-)

I started that week on the Burton Juice Wagon 156, but found that a fraction too stiff in the tail (I could feel it pushing me out), so I switched to a Burton Joystick 156w, which is what these were shot on. It's an unlikely board, but I rode some on one last year and found it fitted my weight perfectly. You know how it is, in powder at least, board size is everything.

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awsome ! nice filming smooth riding and great pow...

I know Phil and I disagree on board lengths for pow :)...I would never bring a 156 in such pow unless I have no other choice...I like to ride on the front leg in powder and that's when you need something above 180cm, especially if u're tall. Of course in the trees a shorter board is more manoeuvrable, but on those open faces....looks you're undergunned in the vid..


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;-) There are no doubt different styles for riding that stuff, board lengths being one.

The videos are a little misleading in that they make trees look faster and "alpine" look slower. I had to look twice at the "hand dragging" stuff in the video as it doesn't actually look like I'm going fast enough to do that, but the whole point at the time was that I was doing Mach 2.

That said, bigger boards would accelerate quicker and have a higher top speed.

Thinking about it, I pick boards which I can comfortably ride across a typical run, which will have both open ("alpine") and also trees in it. Typically it's the trees which are the main factor, and for those I'm looking for the "right" tail response more than anything else. The board used in the tree sequences in that video (Burton Juice Wagon 156) was a bit too stiff in the tail for me - I'm right at the minimum weight range for it. It rode ok, but I had to put too much work into the tail for my liking. Hence I switched to the Joystick as used in the alpine sequences... on that the tail was perfect for my weight.

In alpine terrain, you probably don't do the same fancy stuff with the tail at all. There's none of that "short swing" stuff, getting the board around between the trees before they close down on you. So if you exclude that criterion from the set, then I can see you could well end up with other designs.

I've ridden bigger boards in bigger snow (eg the Burton Stellar 165 in waist-deep freshies), but that's a slightly different deal, where you need float to penetrate at all.

It's all good...

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Hey Phil, thanks for the great video. I always enjoy your posts...you get more heli days in a season than I'll get in my life (barring hitting the lottery), and I appreciate the chance to hear your take on things.

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