hoffmac11 Posted January 11, 2012 Report Share Posted January 11, 2012 so heres a little video of me riding, which i hope the link works since its my first time ever uploading a video to you tube...id appreciate any advice anyone has to offer. from watching it, i can say the few things i think im doing wrong are, my right hand is not reaching into my heel side turn, instead its just doing its own thing,my left hand doesnt reach into my toeside turns, and im not making the C shape with my upper body. plus im not opening my shoulders up to be more squared with the nose of the board. i am doing my best to not 'pat the dog' on my toe side though. if it helps, heres my set up.. Rider:6'5",230lbs mondo 29.5 head stratos pro boot Front binding angle:58 Rear binding angle:55 front/rear foot heel lift at 3degree cant Donek g-force blade 180cm,24.5cm width,14 side cut,M flex edges ground to 88 degrees td3 std, with blue e rings Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crucible Posted January 11, 2012 Report Share Posted January 11, 2012 You can add starting too high in your turns to your list- start your turns with a deeper knee bend might help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kieran Posted January 11, 2012 Report Share Posted January 11, 2012 nice. maybe try the 'hands behind the back' drill on a beginner slope. what stance width? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoffmac11 Posted January 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2012 so bend zee knees, which i assume will help make me get into the C shape, and making me more squared to the board, and the 'hands behind the back drill', i will have to try..id say show me a article, but hands behind my back is pretty self explanatory, but what exactly will that help with? and my stance width is 20.5"..i do think that may be a little short considering my size, but like i said,im 3degree heel lift on both front, and rear foot. also, i am trying to lean towards the nose of the board to start the carve, and slightly roll towards the tail of my board as im carving to put the pressure more towards the rear of the board than the nose.is this correct? also, that run was basically the beginner slope..its very short...there is a longer run, but its steeper and i tend to carry alot of speed down it, and i find it more beneficial to go slower, and really work my edges and think about my technique, than go bombing down a hill..if there was more snow, id have alot more options, and better runs to really work with.plus with not much snow, the runs im on are not very wide at all.the run in the video id say is no more than 45 yards wide..basically, i can never get perpendicular with the fall line..chances are its my technique, but the other side of me likes to say my board likes to go fast to 'feel right'.but hey i feel just as strange on this board as the guy watching me ride it wondering why i have ski boots on a snowboard ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoffmac11 Posted January 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2012 and why is it almost impossible to not try to touch the snow toeside?? im probably like everyone else, i just love that feeling of my palms skimming across the snow...ill blame it on years of surfing and dragging my hands on a wave...whats your excuse?! ha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoffmac11 Posted January 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2012 also, when i 'lock in a carve', what foot should i have the most pressure on? i have noticed, when i lean more forward during the whole carve, the carve feels more solid, but when i lean more towards the tail, the board does more drawn out turns, which makes senses in terms of board flex. so answering my own question, i guess it determines how fast im going correct? slower, more forward, faster more towards the tail? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kieran Posted January 11, 2012 Report Share Posted January 11, 2012 having your hands immobile will stop you flapping your arms for balance, and as i discovered, quickly show you if your body is in the wrong place during a turn. if you can increase your stance width a bit, that should help you with lowering your COG, which will make you feel more stable. (short people don't fully realise just how far away the ground is..) try experimenting with your front binding position until you find a location where you can point the board at will, with your front foot, you'll know when because it's quite a dramatic change in feeling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobby Buggs Posted January 11, 2012 Report Share Posted January 11, 2012 Tough to tell but can you bend your front leg:freak3: bending that front leg a bit more might change allot for you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stupidlong Posted January 11, 2012 Report Share Posted January 11, 2012 the angle of the camera makes it hard to see but it looks like you are at the back of your board. by shifting your weight out over the tip of your board you engage yourself being able to twist the board using your front foot. this sets the leading part of your edge in the snow with pressuer. this also helps to alow your effective edge to follow for a smoother carve. have a friend film you standing down hill in a spot where you already have speed . have them film 3 or 4 turns up hill , passing you , and 3 or 4 turns after you passed them. than repost your video so we can see you body position and how you inishieate your turns Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b0ardski Posted January 11, 2012 Report Share Posted January 11, 2012 and why is it almost impossible to not try to touch the snow toeside?? im probably like everyone else, i just love that feeling of my palms skimming across the snow...ill blame it on years of surfing and dragging my hands on a wave...whats your excuse?! ha I love to make tall, wide airplane turns but not on narrow runs. control those hands Stop reaching for the snow:smashfrea It's hard to deny that natural tendency but if you really want to dig into the carve and check speed reach for the front boot cuff instead. you'll get lower and the "dog" will come to you. You cannot reach your boot cuff without bending the knee, as mentioned a wider stance may help this also, when i 'lock in a carve', what foot should i have the most pressure on? i have noticed, when i lean more forward during the whole carve, the carve feels more solid, but when i lean more towards the tail, the board does more drawn out turns, which makes senses in terms of board flex. so answering my own question, i guess it determines how fast im going correct? slower, more forward, faster more towards the tail? Practice feeding the board thru the turn like a wrinkled dollar bill into a vending machine. Pull the board up into your transition and push you front"bent' knee into the new turn, this will engage the front of the board sooner, move your weight to the middle as you push into the middle of the turn and then towards the tail as you stretch the end of the turn, pull up into the transition and drive the knee into the next turn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack M Posted January 11, 2012 Report Share Posted January 11, 2012 Throughout your heelside carve, there is a gradual deterioration of your body alignment with your board. This is evidenced by your front hand swinging across the board near the end of the carve. Ideally you want your upper body and lower body to remain aligned with your binding angles at all times. There is no need for all this swiveling at the waist. Try this drill to help break this habit - touch your back hand to your front boot cuff on a heelside carve and reach to the inside of the turn with your front hand. Hold that position for the whole carve. Then on toeside touch your front hand to your front boot cuff. This will have you twisted more forward than your binding angles, which is not really the way you want to ride normally, but it should cause a lightbulb to light up in your head! Also I think maybe the comments about knee bend are caused by the camera angle, lighting, and the black pants. I think you may be bending your knees enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lafcadio Posted January 11, 2012 Report Share Posted January 11, 2012 also, when i 'lock in a carve', what foot should i have the most pressure on? I'm no expert, but I like to keep weight/pressure evenly distributed on both feet during the carve for typical groomed run carving conditions. This also allows me to have a more relaxed ride and doesn't tire out my quads as quickly. I'm curious what others think about this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carvedog Posted January 11, 2012 Report Share Posted January 11, 2012 seems like you have lots of thoughts here. I didn't see your front hip move ( and commit to the toeside. Until you can feel yourself move your front knee and hip toward the toeside edge I think it will be hard to lock in your turn. Looked like a fairly narrow trail but maybe work on finishing your turns just a touch more. Hard to tell with the w/a lens but I really like to be 90 to the fall line right before transitioning. one last thought. all the hand and upper body movements are compensations for things that could be adjusted below the waist. while it can help to reach or not reach or think about hand placements ( Jack's - about reaching for the cuff is a good one that I use too ), if the bottom is working the top is easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.