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DIY cant options for burton bindings


dillrepair

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I just made a big purchase (for me) of a donek fcII, i have burton race plates, and for now i'm not going to invest in TD's simply because with the cost of my trip to utah in january and the board i just don't have the money.

Here's the crux of the issue, i know i need some cant, at least on my back foot, i think the burton bindings suck, but i want to make the best out of the situation as it stands....

what are all of your thoughts about making a custom cant plate out of aluminum myself, what should the footprint be to avoid deadspots and/or keep the flex pattern.... i'm concerned with doing the best i can in terms of both ride quality and board protection... so that i can put some TD's on it next season

i'm going to go over to a scrap yard today hand have them cut a piece like this: aluminumwedgebefore.jpg

i was thinking then i'd cut out the shape of the binding footprint, orient it the right way and then drill the appropriate recessed holes and tap other holes for the bindings to attach to... here's a shoddy drawing of that:

aluminumwedgeafter.jpg

so lemme know what you think, thanks

-Patrick

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at the risk of sounding like a whiny bastard... which i don't mean to be at all guys/gals. .

i have tried for the past 2 weeks ... i had one on ebay and someone outbid me at the last minute. emailed people on this forum and the only reply i got was to buy the whole binding package and then resell just the bindings.

btw, if you know where i can find a burton 4-hole cant plate and have it before my trip on january 1.. please tell me, cause i do understand it would be easier.

edit, i think i perhaps have found one

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Here's an easier solution without machining a cant plate: since the toe and heel blocks on the Race are screwed in (which is not the case for Cerriers and Performance), do what all other manufacturers do: put some plastic shims under the blocks with longer screws, it should be much easier. As for the type of plastic, I'm shure someone here could help you with that.

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thanks, i'll keep that idea in mind...

i might have to combine sets of bindings but big deal.

both sets of burton plates i own were used when i got them and both surprisingly enough were mismatch sets... 1 race plate for the front and 2 different generations of step in bindings for the back foot. the old step-in is the rat trap type with the lever.

another reason i haven't gone the easy route of finding a burton cant is due to my insane desire to constantly build little things like that.. so my own idiosyncrasy is to blame i'm sure. :) I haven't been out west in a few years so i'm pretty obsessive about things now that i know i'm going again. Please forgive the vulgarity but carving in the midwest is like going out with a girl for months and not getting any. (and i've been riding alpine out here for the last 8 years so i'm fairly starved)

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Go to Wal-mart and buy a plastic cutting board. They have a varity of thicknesses to use, cut it to go under the heel block like derf suggested, this works great for straight heel lift, for canting you have to get creative and do some sanding/grinding. I know many people who have done this it works great.

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I have a set of the circular wedge Burton cant/lift (I think they are called universal - you rotate the two disks together and get anywhere from a flat lift to an 8 degree lift). They have a metal piece that mounts to the board (3 or 4 hole I think) and the plastic rings fit around them.

I have the full set of two and all the screws etc.

Send me a message and we can work something out.

John

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If you want to fab your own baseplate <> CANT <> toe/heel piece system, you can buy canting plastic from Tognar.

These are usually used for skiiers to get better alignment, but it'd be easy to shape and drill two screws holes. At least that way you know what your getting vs. grinding your own.

Tognar Cant Strips

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thanks to all of you for your advice, a guy can read as much as he wants, but to have individual rider's views on the reading is just as important.

i'm really suprised that extreme carving suggests no cant at all under the binding when many on this forum swear by cant. I guess i've been told by so many other carvers elsewhere when they see my setup to get some cant i just figured it was the way to go. Perhaps my technique could benefit from not canting and learning to ride a bit differently.

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I think that canting is personal, but heel lift in the rear foot is something everyrider needs. Pretend you are standing on your snowboard with the same stance you ride with, then bend your knees. Your heel comes off the ground. Heel lift puts you in a natural position without it you are fighting the way your body wants to go.

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Originally posted by fluke

Sure you need to cant? This is what the extremecarving guys suggest as setting:

http://www.extremecarving.com/tech/set.html

Yeah, but also mod their boots bigtime to allow a ton of movement. Also, a fcII is a totally different board/ride than the Swoard.

EC Boot Pic

FYI I'll be using modded Indys (Northwaves are so hard to get ahold of. :( ) EC RAB Mod Pic, Vid

DrCR

_______

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Originally posted by fluke

Sure you need to cant? This is what the extremecarving guys suggest as setting:

http://www.extremecarving.com/tech/set.html

They cant their boot cuffs equally inward (or out) to compensate for any body mechanics related issues. They do not use LIFT, toe or heel. I've found that toe/heel lift has helped me get into a more relaxed riding position i.e. when I'm flexed, knees bent, ready to turn I feel most natural.
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I've been using an aftermarket cant/lift kit made by Burton. The kit is an assortment of delrin shims that screw underneath the toe and heel blocks on your bindings.

By stacking and tilting the shims, you can adjust the cant/lift on your binding in one degree increments. The shims require longer screws (also included in the kit), are low-profile and <I>very</I> light weight (compared to the bulky cant/lift blocks that Burton made.

If you ride Race Plates and are looking to lift/cant, this is the system I would recommend. You can maybe get a set by calling Burton (802) 862-4500, or through klugriding.com.

I'll try to post a pic of the setup later today, but now I'm goin' riding. Hope you are, too.

<img src="http://tinypic.com/x4rro">

Cheers,

B-2

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Here's a few pics of the lift/cant shims. As you can see the lift is adjusted by stacking shims

<img src="http://tinypic.com/x8rxg">

and the cant comes from moving the curved notched piece laterally.

<img src="http://tinypic.com/x8sap">

It's the best B-ton race plate alignment device I've yet seen--but IMO still not as precise as Catek's or Bomber's design. With the Burton system lifting the heel does not change the 'ramp angle' of the toe block, and canting the heel block does not cant the toe block.

<img src="http://tinypic.com/x8sci">

Both Catek and Bomber lift and cant the entire binding, not just a part of it.

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Dill, after seeing this post and all the folks looking for burton cants I decided to register here (used to post occasionally on the old forum). I've got 2 of the 7deg ergo cants, one never used and still in the bag. You can have first crack before I post in the classifieds.

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I have been pursuing Burton and Klug for the Race Plate kit shown by Boostertwo. No success so far - they each referred me to the other!

If anyone else has any luck getting this kit out of Burton please let me know, similarly if anyone has a contact in Burton that could help then please PM me.

Failing this I go the Tognar route and start cutting and drilling strips to fit unter the toe and heel plates.

AlG

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Hey I wouuld llike to try a set of those Burton Lift/Canting things.....Im using the Eric Beckman blocks now but they dont cant only lift.....what is shipping to Waterford Pa costa nd caan i paypal you the amount?......:) they look like an advance for Burton raceplate users....thanks..tom

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