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The right size board


rickhrdlicka

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I am about to place an order for a Donek Freecarve Metal - not sure what size to order (171 or 175). I do most of my boarding in Northern Michigan (550 vertical feet) on hard-pack/icing conditions, however I do take a trip out West once a year. I am approximately 6'2" and 205 pounds. It has been sometime since I have been on a hard-boot carving board set-up, but I am a proficient skier and snowboarder (soft boot set-up). Would like to purchase the 175 size board for stability and perhaps increased edge control, however since I do most of my skiing on a smaller hill with heavy traffic, I may need to compromise to the smaller size - 171.

Is the difference between the 171 and 175 that material? Any advice??

Thanks

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If your home hill is low on veritcal, but heavy with traffic, then I would pick the 171.

I find the difference between 171 and 175 pronounced in heavy traffic, steeps, and in the bumps- You basically have to be very good at staying centered on a longer board to make it turn well on a dime.

When I'm tired, or when it's icy and/or crappy light conditions, then I find a smaller board easier to control.

For reference sake, I am 5' 9" and 155lbs, but regularly ride three boards as part of my Quiver- a 167 Prior ATV for trees and powder, a 172 Coiler AM as my EDC board, and a 187 Coiler WC Race board for charging fast.

I can take all of these boards down any type of terrain on my local PNW hills, but it isn't necessarily fun all of the time...

Geo

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Is the difference between the 171 and 175 that material? Any advice??

The difference in length between the two is only 1.57 inches. Not really enough to be a deal breaker one way or the other in my book. I ride a 171 Donek Metal FC, and it is a perfect length for me in virtually any situation I jam myself into (I'm 5'9" and 185). Just me .02

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EDC board? Everyday Carver? Early Day Crud? I should probably know this...

Looking to have just one board. Will spend the entire day on the hill, which in Michigan means groomed conditions in the morning and everything skied off the hill at the end of the day, with a little ice. I am 48 years old - would that make a difference in board size?

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Oh, you're 48--that TOTALLY changes things! You use the formula:

three-fourths power of weight + the square of (age - 37)

but ONLY if you're over 47.

That formula says you need the 175, and formulae don't lie!

Seriously, since you mentioned the afternoon conditions, that also argues for a longer board. If it's sufficiently flexible (good to have on ice as well) it smooths everything out and won't throw you around. I'm your size and have a fairly soft Coiler 180 that works great (once I got comfortable in crowds... that required some time with NO crowds to get used to how to turn tightly)

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Get the 175 but have it built for a 190-- lb person, it's a little soft for your weight and in icy conditions (unless it's never icy:) ) it'll be perfect, and it'll be long enough when conditions aren't icy.

If you find after a few years that it's to short-soft, move on, it'll sell easy.

SCR wise, talk to Sean+1

JMHO,YMMV

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The rules are different over 200 lb - go bigger. I'm 215 and ride a 180 Coiler which under all that weight turns inside most anything if it needs to, but gives me much more stability than a shorter board. When I lend it to lighter-weight buddies they mostly find it too stout and too cumbersome.

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Which hill do ride?

I am close to your size and had a 179 FC about 10 yrs ago and it was not too long. Talk to Sean. If things get too crazy & crowded you may need to change to your skis for self preservation. Getting on just about any day mid-week you will find the hills with far fewer people. If forced to ride weekends, aim to get on the first chair. Often I do only to let the next few chairs of skiers go ahead so I don't have to worry about what's coming from behind. I am expecting delivery of a new 185 FC Metal in a few weeks so we can compare notes later.

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Which hill do ride?

I am close to your size and had a 179 FC about 10 yrs ago and it was not too long. Talk to Sean. If things get too crazy & crowded you may need to change to your skis for self preservation. Getting on just about any day mid-week you will find the hills with far fewer people. If forced to ride weekends, aim to get on the first chair. Often I do only to let the next few chairs of skiers go ahead so I don't have to worry about what's coming from behind. I am expecting delivery of a new 185 FC Metal in a few weeks so we can compare notes later.

I live in Southeast Michigan, but have a place in Boyne City (Northern MI). Ski exclusively at Boyne Mountain up-north (downstate at Pine Knob when with my daughter's school ski club). Most of my riding is on the weekends!

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Not to take business away from Sean but, and only because you seem to be missing out some key concepts, perhaps you should consider buying a few used boards off of the classifieds on here and decide what you want through riding actual boards, experimentation, and further reading. This is a great place but ask a question and you'll often get a ton of different answers that depend on the answerers skill level, background, riding style, and individual preference.

The decisions for a board can be kind of endless; glass,metal, or carbon construction, do you want a damp ride or a lively poppy ride, do you like something narrow or wider, decambered, VSR or single radius, full on carver or AM stick, shorter or longer, would you like UPM inserts, or are 4X4 (or denser) good enough, do you think you'd like a plate system eventually?

If you go the used board route, you could probably own and ride 3 good quality fairly modern used boards for what the metal FC will run you. Any used board you buy on the classifieds you can resell here again later (reselling the boards and recycling the money would likely bump the number up to at least 5 boards). This kind of experimentation will save you money in the long run. Then when you figure out what you like and want buy a new board.

As a final note IMO there is no one board to do it all in carving, they all perform somewhat differently, and have their own personalities, that depend on construction, size, SCR, waist width, taper, stiffness, dampness, etc. Unfortunately I have been tragically unable to get my wife to buy into this so I currently only own three boards, four if you count the old O2 F-67 I'm trying to sell locally.

Cheers,

Dave

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If you are a die hard rider, lift opening to lift closing under all conditions a snowboard plate system will enably you to ride when others have packed it in for the day. A plate will smooth out the crud and give better grip on ice as well as provide suspension to absorbe the shock your front leg recieves pounding out the bumps. Contrary to what many believe a plate on an old board can make it ride better than what most people remember the older boards capable of. I second Puddy Tat's comment ,try as many as you can before you commit and i strongly recommend when you do order a custom board get the UPM mounts for addition of a plate. It will also make it more saleable if you decide to resell or trade up at a later date. As far as the vertical you ride,you just have more experience clipping into you bindings. Step in snowboard bindings are the only way to go on shorter verticals. The ride up = the ride down no matter where you ride! New design decambered boards are slightly more forgiving to ride but not enough worry about. Excellent boot fit is you #1 priority step in's #2 and the perfect board #3, #3 may elude you for a while. Good Luck !

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Where do I find the links? Today is my first day on this forum.

You can also watch the video about sidecut radii on the Donek homepage. It's really good!

The board's sidecut plays a big role in determining how a board turns at different speeds and given different inputs from the rider.

In general, the smaller the radii number (SCR) --which means a deeper sidecut--the more "turny" the board will be at slower speeds. Bigger radii numbers--ie. shallower sidecuts-- feel more stable going faster. They can still turn tight, but you often need to get the board higher on it's edge to do so. It can get much more technical from there...

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I am about to place an order for a Donek Freecarve Metal - not sure what size to order (171 or 175). I do most of my boarding in Northern Michigan (550 vertical feet) on hard-pack/icing conditions, however I do take a trip out West once a year. I am approximately 6'2" and 205 pounds. It has been sometime since I have been on a hard-boot carving board set-up, but I am a proficient skier and snowboarder (soft boot set-up). Would like to purchase the 175 size board for stability and perhaps increased edge control, however since I do most of my skiing on a smaller hill with heavy traffic, I may need to compromise to the smaller size - 171.

Is the difference between the 171 and 175 that material? Any advice??

Thanks

I didn't see if you are planning on ordering a stock board from Bomber or have you been talking directly to Sean at Donek? If you haven't talked to Sean, pick up the phone and give him a call. The price is the same but Sean can customize the board to your size, riding style and needs.

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