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Minds in the Water


softbootsurfer

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Heres a shot from Salty Journal...basically your sitting out there watching these giant lines coming toward you...you turn and paddle up to go down because of the Off Shore winds and the energy moving up the Wave...you free fall with total blindness from the spray stinging your eyes into submission and the winds coming up the wave and lifting your board as you tip toe on the tail, board fluttering back and forth, you made the drop only to have 50ft. of Wave crack you on the head...

 

 

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While surfing the web I came across this photo on Downwindsports website in U.P. Michigan.  Early winter snow storm, when the water is still "warm", surfing mother Superior.  Gives "cold surf" a whole new meaning! 

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The biggest stuff I ever windsurfed in was an early summer day on Lake Superior, north of Duluth, with winds gusting NE 50mph and 20'+ waves...survival stuff, but memorable!

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Barbarian Days - a Surfing Life, William Finnegan's biography about his lifelong love affair with waves, both near and far, just won the Pulitzer.

 

I can't tell you how much I loved, and was amazed by, this book.

 

Mahalo to a true surfer and a great writer!

 

BB :biggthump

 

http://beachgrit.com/2016/04/just-in-surf-writer-wins-pulitzer-prize/

Edited by boarderboy
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Ok, kick me out of this thread if it's the wrong place, but this is what I'm trying to work out...

  • I can easily walk around on a beginner surf board, but I can only catch about 1 wave in 5
  • I think I need to spend a lot of time in the water to get past that.

So:

  • I'm looking for somewhere with warm water (so probably not the UK where I'm starting from), but probably not somewhere I get sun stroke if I stay out all day (San Diego).
  • I suppose I need somewhere I can rent gear, maybe take a lesson or two (although I'm not convinced I need anything but practice).
  • I'm starting from the UK and I'd probably rather not fly to Australia as I may need to do this a week at a time.

Any ideas? Costa Rica or Brasil look like they'd work, but they're both fairly hard to get to from here and the food / accommodation isn't going to be up to US standards. I suppose I need consistent waves and maybe sand, although I still bounce quite well. I'd rent time on the Kelly Slater wave machine, but I can't figure out how to do that.

Edited by philw
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Phil, some thoughts

 

Surfing is not just Balance, but Wave Knowledge is the Key to being successful and that comes from practice...also wherever you go, Beach Breaks are the Hardest to learn in,  as opposed to longer Point Breaks...and of course a longer board allows you to get into the waves earlier while the shortest boards are great for late drop ins  :ph34r: actually Waikiki with its endless reefs and longish rides would be perfect, and of course Portugal is closer to you and has some nice breaks...

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