Help with Madd board ID.

[vermonohue]

An ex tenant just paid his back rent with a Madd board. Does anyone know what model this is? Length: 168.5cm, Nose: 235mm, Waist: 180mm, Tail: 234mm. The base has "FUNKY TEAM BOARD" in the graphic. He claims he knew Mike, so this might not be a "standard" model. Or he might have been full of it...

Thanks,

jd

[Jack M]

Could be a really awesome board, depending on usage. Madds were cutting edge and as good as it gets before the metal construction revolution. Looks like a prototype from 2004, but could also be a 2006 prototype. Never seen that base before, so it could be something they had laying around. But the carbon fiber topsheet looks very clean.

If it hasn't been used much and has good camber I'd value it at about $400. Peel off the teeny-bopper stickers, tune it, and you're good to go! Nice score if you like high binding angles and a lively ride.

[sfleck]

Looks to me like an older prototype, probably from even before the most recent batches. If you look at the carbon butterfly, the way the ends are curved off the edge of the board, not squared off like the newer ones.

I was at Mike's apt. in Boston once and he had a bunch of different stuff like this kicking around.

Let us know how it rides!

[vermonohue]

There is a broken screw in one of the inserts. They look like brass, not stainless inserts. Any tricks to removing the screw without damaging the board? I was going to just drill it and use a standard extractor. I assume using any pb blast type sprays would be bad for the board?

Thanks,

jd

[John Gilmour]

We were shopping for laminators back then.. it's a very early proto, before I had direct design input.

Anywhere you see the white foam.. you should reinforce it with epoxy.. and never NEVER NEVER ride it in loose granular or soft wet snow. It's a low density open foam as opposed to the rubber I spec'd in later models. if you bury the nose and plow it it can delaminate in a single run of hard riding... I was able to delaminate 3 of these type of construction (noses) in a single run.

The Tail if ridden in very icy hard snow will also come apart in several places due to a stress riser mistake about 1 inch from the end of the tail- also something I later spec'd to fix... so well that models made by any laminator we used still had tails and noses that held together after 17 years of use. Boards tended to fail from over flexing near the front binding or at tail from doing tail 360's.

The Side cut does not fit the flex pattern on those boards.. I think the sidecut is around 14-16 meter on those.. not very versatile.. GS only. If you don't have a lot of speed it tends to "fall over". Not enough Nose and tail bite for the flex pattern. Later I spec'd a 1050mm SCR.

Mostly a wall hanger. Still rode better than many boards of it's time (1991) perhaps slightly superior to an older F2 of same vintage ... but compared to today's stock.. I'd pick a Prior, Coiler, Donek, Virus over it....even a model from 10 years ago.

Nearly all of the decks we made were farmed out to yet another laminator that unfortunately seized our molds at one point for debts incurred by the subcontractor we worked with who batched lamination runs he had contracted with other companies that went bust.

[Jack M]

aha... scratch my earlier message! Personally I wouldn't pay anything for that board based on John's info.

[John Gilmour]

It's not a bad ride... just limited to GS only and not a good match of sidecut and flex.. it would need to be much stiffer- particularly in the belly.

but it will not have the versatility of the speckled 170's

[vermonohue]

Anyone have any luck removing a broken screw from the brass inserts?

Thanks,

John

[lowrider]

Tic tic tic tic tic tic tic tic tic tic tic tic tic...... Boom!

[tahoetrencher]

That bad insert is the best thing for that board-

not much use; looks minty fresh

That's gotta be $200 of love (and carbon) here on the board

Anyhow, Bryan would surely love to make a lamp out of it?

Kurt?

[big canuck]

Yes I want it and a had a reply typed out but got cold feet.

LOVE Madds.

[Beckmann AG]

Anyone have any luck removing a broken screw from the brass inserts?

A drill press, careful locating, and a short shank, three flute, center cutting, single end milling bit should core it out nicely. Then weasel out the thread remnants with a pick tool.

If the screw is cross threaded, you will need to do a thread repair anyway, and a milling bit of the correct size is a good way to core out the damage to full depth.

A screw extractor of that size may not work too well, as the screw has apparently been twisted off. And if you break the extractor....

[John Gilmour]

The screw being of dissimilar materials... well its bonded.

careful drilling out with water to keep things cool..

go up one size at a time slowly...recentering carefully as needed

when it is really thin you can score the top of the "can" of brass with an exacto knife and then use locking pliers to peel it off by peeling to the inside.

DO NOT LET IT GET HOT!!!!!

[MUD]

If you can get them......

Use a left hand drill or end mill, that way if it does manage to grab it MAY back the screw out......

Go slow. you don't want to spin the insert.

[John Gilmour]

those inserts will spin on those protos..

drill it out. any tap extractor will spin it.