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Summer Quiver


Gecko

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I just want to say that one good truck set is better than few cheap ones :cool: i mean moving good trucks from board to board is better than jump from board to board with basic trucks..

I have good ones and cheap ones.

When i run on my good ones, i see more accuracy and speed.

On Tracker/Bennet combo it feels so much more slower. But this might be due i have also good ones too ;)

But if you can not get precission trucks, then get good set of bushings. And learn how to adjust them. That is best way to spend few bucks. My favourite ones are Reflex and Venom ones.

But if and when one can run properly, it does not make much difference level of trucks, it is alwways about rider untill you are on pro-level.

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Fully agree, good guy with basic trucks can beat bad guy with good stuff, just like in winter time.

I personally would prefer that lower level races would be limited to accept only to Tracker/Bennet trucks. That would make riders to get better with less cash. Bushings should be free, not sure about wheels to be honest. Part of me say that wheels shold be free but i see that there is one costly area.

With this Tracker/Bennet combo one can easily run all straight tracks till 170cm cone space.

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Mig helped me mod my 90mm R3 for use on front - made all the difference in the world. I use it spaced to 110mm for big fast GS and above, in conjunction with a R3 107mm spaced to 121mm. Thanks Mig. :)

Have you tried using a Skandal as a front truck with a 42* or 50* baseplate?

I figure it's a cheaper alternative to splitfires, that and it's pretty tough to find splitfires now. I'm really interested in trying that out.

I'm not feeling the Bennetts so much anymore. I did a short 1.5 hour solo session today and almost got highsided/bucked off of the board when my Bennett 5.0 did the infamous dive - I even had a venom eliminator on there too. That, and I'd like a narrower truck for the front.

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Have you tried using a Skandal as a front truck with a 42* or 50* baseplate?

I figure it's a cheaper alternative to splitfires, that and it's pretty tough to find splitfires now. I'm really interested in trying that out.

I'm not feeling the Bennetts so much anymore. I did a short 1.5 hour solo session today and almost got highsided/bucked off of the board when my Bennett 5.0 did the infamous dive - I even had a venom eliminator on there too. That, and I'd like a narrower truck for the front.

That happened to me when I was skating the TS course last time, DUAL elims too!

Feel like borrowing a 4.3?

We have four 4.3's now, one is on the Axe right now.

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Quote:

<table width="100%" border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0"> <tbody><tr> <td class="alt2" style="border: 1px inset ;"> Originally Posted by Bullwings viewpost.gif

I'm not feeling the Bennetts so much anymore. I did a short 1.5 hour solo session today and almost got highsided/bucked off of the board when my Bennett 5.0 did the infamous dive - I even had a venom eliminator on there too. That, and I'd like a narrower truck for the front.

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Feel like borrowing a 4.3?

We have four 4.3's now, one is on the Axe right now.

and i have a INDY 129

if we get together next sunday you are welcome to try it

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Thanks for the offer, I guess I'll try out the 4.3 (i used to have one 2 years ago).

The main thing for me is the dive. I thought I cured it and got rid of it, and when I was pushing it a bit harder to make some cones, it did the infamous dive on me.

I don't think that'll change with a shorter hanger, I think that's something that's characteristic of Bennetts, even the modified Skennett.

So, I'm wondering if anyone has tried the Skandal as a front truck. Both Mig and RF are using the splitfires R3s as a front truck, i'm wondering if with maybe a 50* or even 60* baseplate with the proper wedging and bushing combo if the skandal is a viable front truck.

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So, I'm wondering if anyone has tried the Skandal as a front truck. Both Mig and RF are using the splitfires R3s as a front truck, i'm wondering if with maybe a 50* or even 60* baseplate with the proper wedging and bushing combo if the skandal is a viable front truck.

While I haven't tried a "Skandal" I have tried my own version of the Skandal (the Skully-andal?). My version is cut down like the Skandal, but it has a spherical bearing added to the hanger. It's currently on my GS board. I also have a chopped-down Paris, with a spherical in the hanger that's on the other GS board. I think they perform fine. They're basically the low-tech version of a front Radikal, 161, GOG or Virage (reverse kingpin with a "leading / trailing" axle or whatever you call it.) Not as twitchy as a Bennett, but like I said, I think they work fine as a front truck, and I know some pretty fast skaters who use them as fronts... (I'm not in that "fast" category...)

post-114-141842317064_thumb.jpg

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Sweet Spherikulldal :D

How you've done that? Just drilled out the bushing seat for the size of the bearing and epoxied it in? What about the pivot? Spherical in there too, or just polished, or some sort of ball-pin?

I've got a pair of Randals 125 with a sht load of various bases on the way. I'm totally going to do one into 108 version, maybe even spherical... Faced Benett up front and it will be all rock-and-roll!

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How you've done that? Just drilled out the bushing seat for the size of the bearing and epoxied it in?

That's pretty much the idea. I now use a combination of JB weld and epoxy.

The Paris was my first experiment with truck modification / improvement. This one was done with epoxy only:

attachment.php?attachmentid=22848&stc=1&d=1277393606

It didn't turn out perfect, but it works, and I've been using it for over two years without any problems.

The first Randal 125 looked like this:

attachment.php?attachmentid=22849&stc=1&d=1277394230

Done with the combination of JB weld and epoxy. I can get you better photos if you're interested...

What about the pivot? Spherical in there too, or just polished, or some sort of ball-pin?

Just polished. With the way the pivot only rotates in the pivot cup on reverse kingpin trucks, I personally don't think installing a spherical in the pivot is worth it. At some point I'd like to make delrin pivot cups, but right now I don't have the tools to do it properly...

.

post-114-14184231709_thumb.jpg

post-114-141842317092_thumb.jpg

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At some point I'd like to make delrin pivot cups, but right now I don't have the tools to do it properly...

Sounds like a much cheaper and easier alternative with better results than the stock pivot cups!

Delrin, as in the same delrin used in slide pucks right?

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Can you use something as hard as delrin?

I was under the impression pivot cups were always so soft because they have to deform as the truck turns. It would make sense to use Delrin if pivot cups were perfectly spherical, but my Trackers definitely are not. It would be interesting to see if the truck binds when you get the Delrin wet, as I think it is very prone to swelling.

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Delrin, as in the same delrin used in slide pucks right?

Yes same delrin as slide pucks.

Sounds like a much cheaper and easier alternative with better results than the stock pivot cups!

Easier and cheaper? I don't think so. It's much easier to buy a stock pivot cup from Khiro....

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Can you use something as hard as delrin?

Yes, kinda like using a spherical bearing. If the pivot cup deforms less, turning will be more precise.

I was under the impression pivot cups were always so soft because they have to deform as the truck turns. It would make sense to use Delrin if pivot cups were perfectly spherical, but my Trackers definitely are not. It would be interesting to see if the truck binds when you get the Delrin wet, as I think it is very prone to swelling.

On reverse kingpin trucks, the pivot does not bind when turning, so delrin pivot cups work fine. Indy-style trucks, I don't know.... A lot of the time, when someone uses a delrin pivot cup on Indy-style trucks, they also replace the pivot with a spherical pivot / some kind of rod end, which eliminates the binding....

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Funny enough, I never snapped a Laser mast, just few Finn masts - not that loud...

Laser mast is notorious for snapping just above the splice. Good news, you can turn the collar to the other end of the upper part, slide a tube inside the cracked parts, epoxy/pop-rievet, and you are good to go agian, just hiking against 2 extra lbs right at the (new) top of the mast...

If you ever bought a very old Laser, flip the mast top right away, dont wait for the snap.

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