crazyTKDsquirrel Posted April 15, 2009 Report Share Posted April 15, 2009 Alright, here's the scoop. I just got a Donek I bought here on Bomber. When I started ripping off the cardboard, I noticed that the nose seemed as though it was hit by something (there was a hole in the cardboard). After I took the board out, I inspected it some more. My heart sank a little when I saw what looks like a small delam. Take a look yourself and tell me what you think. What can I do to fix this? I got this as an anniversary gift for my gf, so I'm really hoping it's not too major. Should I have a fear of it delaminating further? :( Any tips and input would be greatly appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyTKDsquirrel Posted April 15, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2009 After looking at the pics, I should say that it's not as bad as it looks in the pics. This cam can double as a microscope. Just keep in mind that this is smaller than the diameter of a quarter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KingCrimson Posted April 15, 2009 Report Share Posted April 15, 2009 Woulda been more careful with the cardboard.. Make a claim with the shipping company. I always inspect a package before opening it, much better chances of a claim. It was obviously mishandled due to the flatspot on the nose filler. If all else fails, it's a simple clean-mix-fill-clamp-enjoy situation. Did you buy the board ON Bomber or FROM Bomber? The base looks new(ly ground?), but I can't tell if it's new from the edges. Hope this helps, Theo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyTKDsquirrel Posted April 15, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2009 GAH! I knew I shoulda kept the cardboard in one piece! :( Dangit...at least I know it's fixable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KingCrimson Posted April 15, 2009 Report Share Posted April 15, 2009 Check my edit- Was the board new? Looking at the pictures again, the edge doesn't look all new and shiny at all. I had one of those buggers on my Coiler. Easy fix, still holding up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyTKDsquirrel Posted April 15, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2009 Nope, I bought it ON Bomber from a fellow member. I believe it's an '02. (FCI) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEJ Posted April 15, 2009 Report Share Posted April 15, 2009 Be sure to use snow ski epoxy, it's more flexible. Probably get it from Tognar tools on line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coloradoking Posted April 15, 2009 Report Share Posted April 15, 2009 hey man, if you want some details i've got some my recommendation is to use marine epoxy (its the stuff that comes in a 2 tube syringe), ski epoxy isn't quite as durable just fill the delam a little bit and.... take 2 scrapers (1 on each side of the board) and a heavy duty clamp and press it all together. use rough, then fine sandpaper and sand off whatever epoxy is left over after its cured for about 24 hours Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KingCrimson Posted April 15, 2009 Report Share Posted April 15, 2009 I'd be surprised if it mattered what kind he used. Unless the nose hits a gate or something, it's not really a high-flex or impact area, so as long as it's sturdy enough to hold the bits together, it should work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEJ Posted April 16, 2009 Report Share Posted April 16, 2009 I just mentioned the ski epoxy cause that's what Bordy and Fin told me to use when we were talking about my Madd. They were pretty adamant about it. But you're right KC, not a high flex area of the board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobdea Posted April 16, 2009 Report Share Posted April 16, 2009 hey man, if you want some details i've got somemy recommendation is to use marine epoxy (its the stuff that comes in a 2 tube syringe), ski epoxy isn't quite as durable just fill the delam a little bit and.... take 2 scrapers (1 on each side of the board) and a heavy duty clamp and press it all together. use rough, then fine sandpaper and sand off whatever epoxy is left over after its cured for about 24 hours ck just spoke some deep wisdom, he is 100% correct. only thing I would add is that you need to get a flat screwdriver or small chizel and tap the edge back into place. getting the area hot with a blowdryer really seems to help too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bordy Posted April 16, 2009 Report Share Posted April 16, 2009 I just mentioned the ski epoxy cause that's what Bordy and Fin told me to use when we were talking about my Madd. They were pretty adamant about it. But you're right KC, not a high flex area of the board. Ski and Marine epoxy work well, I reccomend both. Usally marine epoxy is alot easier to find(expecally on the road!) so it gets mentioned often. But good Ski epoxy is hard to beat if you can find it. Some applications work better with one more then the other. Just glue and clamp it.... As long as you can bond the layers and keep water out it should be just fine!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donek Posted April 16, 2009 Report Share Posted April 16, 2009 If you have the box in tact, you should be able to make a claim against the carrier, assuming it was insured. It's not something I would leave as is. I'm not sure of your location, but if you're in CO, bring it by the shop and I can throw it in the press for you. Otherwise, as stated, epoxy and clamps. If you heat the area up with a hair dryer prior to clamping the epoxy will flow a bit better. Wedging a screw driver in the gap and opening and closing the gap helps to work the epoxy all the way into the joit as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyTKDsquirrel Posted April 16, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2009 So I'll take it wouldn't be a good idea if I take the board out like this in slushy snow? I was really hoping I would be able to take her out, but I guess it's just gonna have to wait. :( Any INWES brothas wanna help me out? All I have is duct tape in my dorm room. I can buy the epoxy if needed. Heck, I'll even pay for labor (if it's not too spendy. This board left me broke :o) ETA: Thank you, Sean, but I'm in northern ID. As for the box...well...It's not so intact. I still have it, but I may have effed myself for a claim by ripping the cardboard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyTKDsquirrel Posted April 16, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2009 We didn't get insurance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyTKDsquirrel Posted April 17, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2009 Would it be safe to take the board out like this? Would the slushy snow make it delam further? I really wanted to take it out before the season ends, but if it means more delam, I'll just have to wait. So what's the word of the wise? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KingCrimson Posted April 17, 2009 Report Share Posted April 17, 2009 I wouldn't, I made that mistake on my Coiler (was a TINY peel on the corner, wouldn't have noticed it if I hadn't been holding the board nose-down) and now I'm missing a section of edge on the tail. And found this when I loaded it into the car at the end of the day. It is however an anomaly as I took a quad cartwheel in the GS that day. It isn't typical; Bruce was surprised it delammed. But, the nose of a board encounters a lot of snow. Don't ride. PS- The board underwent therapy and made a complete recovery Theo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sultan Guy Posted April 17, 2009 Report Share Posted April 17, 2009 CrazyTKD- I work with epoxy as part of my job building kayak paddles. You have been given some great advice about heating the area and clamping it tight. I would only add to make sure that it is totally dry and free of any dust, dirt, wax, etc. Epoxy likes to be warm and clean :) to bond properly. I would not worry. I have fixed much worse! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEJ Posted April 17, 2009 Report Share Posted April 17, 2009 The fix will only take ten minutes, and a day to cure. I would NOT ride it till fixed. It's nice and dry now. You ride it and it will get wet. Or worse yet, water might freeze in there and your problem will become much bigger. I know, it happened to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyTKDsquirrel Posted April 17, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2009 Alrighty guys. All your advice has been really appreciated. :) I won't ride it tomorrow. Maybe I can get one of the INWES guys to help me out. I'll be riding with a couple of them this weekend, so I'll ask them then, hopefully. Otherwise, I'll just have to wait until I figure something else out. One more thing...how do I get the epoxy in that tiny crack? Can I get some epoxy in a syringe or something? Thanks again everyone :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaida Posted April 17, 2009 Report Share Posted April 17, 2009 They do indeed have syringes if you need to get the epoxy deep in there. Near the bottom of the page: http://www.tognar.com/base_repair_tools_iron_ptex_gouges_damage.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b0ardski Posted April 17, 2009 Report Share Posted April 17, 2009 Hey Gus, bring the board with you tomrrow, We'll have a first hand look at it. I'll see if I have an old c-clamp I can give you. The metal edges are apparently bent, it may be worth cutting the folded portion of p-tex out and replace it after straitening out the edge, then clamping it all back together with epoxy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyTKDsquirrel Posted April 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2009 I'm still wondering what I could use to get the epoxy in the crack. As you can see, the crack is a little thicker than the silver layer on a dime. I have a tiny screwdriver that can just barely get the tip in, but I doubt it'll work. Is there anything else you guys recommend? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobdea Posted April 20, 2009 Report Share Posted April 20, 2009 If you have the box in tact, you should be able to make a claim against the carrier, assuming it was insured. It's not something I would leave as is. I'm not sure of your location, but if you're in CO, bring it by the shop and I can throw it in the press for you. Otherwise, as stated, epoxy and clamps. If you heat the area up with a hair dryer prior to clamping the epoxy will flow a bit better. Wedging a screw driver in the gap and opening and closing the gap helps to work the epoxy all the way into the joit as well. you just have to read the posts better it's all here! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyTKDsquirrel Posted April 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2009 I didn't miss anything. I'm just a little hesitant to jam a screw driver up in there to make the crack bigger. I guess it's just going to be glued black together, so I suppose it won't do too much harm. Maybe I'm just chicken to screw it up any further. :o Can you blame me? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.