bobdea Posted April 20, 2009 Report Share Posted April 20, 2009 I didn't miss anything. I'm just a little hesitant to jam a screw driver up in there to make the crack bigger. I guess it's just going to be glued black together, so I suppose it won't do too much harm. Maybe I'm just chicken to screw it up any further. :o Can you blame me? I've used a razor blade to get in deeper as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KingCrimson Posted April 20, 2009 Report Share Posted April 20, 2009 I didn't miss anything. I'm just a little hesitant to jam a screw driver up in there to make the crack bigger. I guess it's just going to be glued black together, so I suppose it won't do too much harm. Maybe I'm just chicken to screw it up any further. :o Can you blame me? I'd take Boardski's offer of assistance if you're so worried. If not just so you have someone to blame if the board blows apart. ;):p Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b0ardski Posted April 21, 2009 Report Share Posted April 21, 2009 Sorry we didn't have the time to check it out Sat. I wouldn't be too worried about opening up the seperation slightly to work the epoxy in. A cheapo utility or snap blade knife will get into the crack. You'll want the thinest epoxy ( more liquid than putty) you can find, heatup the nose and gently work the split w small srewdriver as Sean described, small piece of wood or plastic to pad the c-clamp (or vise grips), and wipe up excess as you press the clamp tight. Don't be scared, It's a cheap & easy fix:biggthump Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sauli449 Posted April 21, 2009 Report Share Posted April 21, 2009 Hello I just repaired same kind of delam few weeks ago. I used 24 h open 2 component epoxy, 2 pcs polycarponate wraped with duckt tape, 3 pcs C clamps injection wrinch and heater. First clean and scrap injury well all grease and wax must remowed, second place duct tape both sides of deck to keep epoxy out wrong places, third mix epoxy and then heat it little bit so that it becomes more fluidy suck it to wrinch and then inject it to injury as deep you can. After that place piece of polycaponate wraped with duct tape on both side of deck and shut injury pressing with c clamps. Let it dry at least 24 h injury upwards in moderate warm place. I got this repairing information from Samu of Powder flower finnish board maker for me it works My Pen is all righ after few days in finnish spring flush. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
valsam Posted April 21, 2009 Report Share Posted April 21, 2009 I have my board with serious delam at the area between the bindings for 5 years now and after bonding it with epoxy i still ride it without the delam getting bigger, but every once in a while it needs to be glued back together again because the epoxy cracks (i tried all kinds of epoxy and the one that lasts longer is Araldit blue) from the presure that it takes that is related from the area that the delam is located! In the area that your delam is i think that with epoxy you will be just fine! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyTKDsquirrel Posted May 18, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2009 Hey everyone, the moment has come...almost. I still need to buy epoxy. :o Question: what do you recommend cleaning the crack with (solvents?)? I can barely get in there with a tiny screw driver, let alone get a rag or something in there. I doubt that any grease or oil got in there. The only thing I'm minutely worried about it dust. Would this epoxy work? I still need to make a stop to ACE to see what they have to offer... Sorry about all these questions guys, I just want to make sure I don't screw up on her anniversary gift. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donek Posted May 18, 2009 Report Share Posted May 18, 2009 5 minute epoxy is the worst thing you can use. You need an epoxy that sets overnight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bjvircks Posted May 18, 2009 Report Share Posted May 18, 2009 Use a quality marine epoxie or have a snowboard builder send you a small amount of whatever they use. From personal experience I can swear that not all epoxies are created equal. The company I work for uses several different types of epoxies for a broad range of issues. Some have a narrow range of temperature in which they will remain flexible. Some do not withstand shear forces. Some are thick, non-slumping and stay where they are applied (thixotropic). Some have a long pot life (working time before they are so stiff that you cannot apply, but not yet cured). Some cure very rapidly, others are designed to cure slowly. One of my first jobs was working with an epoxy which had several mixing ratios and curing agents available in order to arrive at the best combination of properties for a given application. Some are very thin and runny (low viscosity). Most "industrial' epoxies have been tailored to work best with certain materials. "General Purpose" consumer epoxies are often compounded in order to try to be somewhat ok at all things. In doing this they are frequently very poor at certain 'out on the edge' applications. Poor penetration and far from excellent surface adhesion are often the result. I don't mean to cause confusion or doubt, just saying the perfect answer is probably not at a hardware store. But it may well be good enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyTKDsquirrel Posted May 19, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2009 Thanks for that thoughful response. I acutally went hunting for a ski specialty shop around town today and found someplace that may have what I'm looking for. Which one of these epoxies would work best for me? http://www.svst.com/Categories3.aspx?Category=487e29d9-faf1-4db0-923f-7b851964fbfa Thanks again everyone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bjvircks Posted May 19, 2009 Report Share Posted May 19, 2009 well, guy...obviously the fix needs to suit the problem. Your problem is very benign, as it is in an area where there will be essentially no flex (very tip of board) other than the steel edge trying to return to its deformed state if you clamp it fully closed. Do not quickly dismiss this. There is a lot of pent up spring force there. I suspect that if you bond and tightly clamp that the opening will reappear in a season or two. In this situation you might be able to get away with an inexpensive hard epoxy and just pack the hole full but not clamp. It is not part of the running surface and so will not require smoothness but will be continually exposed to more knocking around from handling and on hill bumping into stuff. I would think toughness and moisture protection would be in order versus 'pretty'. It looks like any of the ski shop choices would be fine, but the hardware store stuff may well be good enough to just fill the opening and provide a bit of a front bumper. My earlier comments were meant to cover the full gammut of board repair issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b0ardski Posted May 19, 2009 Report Share Posted May 19, 2009 Looks like the devcon is recomended for edge repair, probably has the best adhesion to steel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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