iron_butt Posted March 10, 2009 Report Share Posted March 10, 2009 I just cannot keep the power plate from rotating when I set the binding angel other than 60 degree, no matter how hard i drive the set screws. any ideas? Thanks alot. (original picture from http://www.alpinecarving.com/wtc06/add/) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
queequeg Posted March 10, 2009 Report Share Posted March 10, 2009 I just cannot keep the power plate from rotating when I set the binding angel other than 60 degree, no matter how hard i drive the set screws.any ideas? Thanks alot. (original picture from http://www.alpinecarving.com/wtc06/add/) I had this problem too. I sent my base plate and power plate to Catek and they replaced them, but the problem recurred with the new plate as well. I did not have this problem on the rear foot, just the front. I would start the day with 60 degrees on the front and end up with something around 65. Thankfully, my angles are 60 front and 55 rear -- 60 on cateks permits you to drive two screws through each end of the power plate that effectively locks it into place. That is what I am doing to counter the problem but obviously, that isn't going to help you. I discovered that I had this problem regardless of how tight and cranked down I had the angle set screws, as well as the kingpin and rider dowel screws, both times. I have seen my front plate shift as much as 7 degrees a day. I thought my situation was unique until I met another guy who had the same problem on the mountain. he ended up jury rigging the binding so that the angles were no longer adjustable, can't remember how. You're the third person I've seen with this problem including myself so it seems like it might have something to do with the binding design. I did notice that the binding tended to move more on icy days than days when the snow is soft. Prolly not the solution you are looking for, but I bought a pair of TD3s when I was at SES. The cateks are still on my old board, and are thankfully not much of a problem thanks to the double set screws on the front binding, but I don't think I'll be buying another pair in the future. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ursle Posted March 10, 2009 Report Share Posted March 10, 2009 Happened to me two years ago, luckily cateck was answering emails then, they didn't believe me but when I returned the bindings (new) and they saw the problem (plate was to thin) they replaced it, might I suggest, putting a gasket of some sort below the plate to thicken it, unless of course you can get cateck to respond jmho Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kimo Posted March 10, 2009 Report Share Posted March 10, 2009 I've never had a problem, but I saw that Todd Brown uses the 4 screw solution. Maybe you can use a friction compound like loc-tite either on the flanges (not just the threads) of the screws or between the base plate and the power plate where the twos' surfaces touch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ur13 Posted March 10, 2009 Report Share Posted March 10, 2009 I'm having the same issue. However once I tighten the kingpin and the 4 set screws it doesn't move. that seem to lock it. But until I do that I can move it with my hand easily on one of my bindings. Thus far riding them, with the set screws tight, I've not had it move on me. The 4 screw trick was working for me when I was riding 60/60. Now that I'm in the 70s I'm stuck to 2 screws again... This is why I like the adjustability of Cateks but the simplicity of Bombers! Once I get a new stance dialed. if I can replicate it with Bombers, trust me I will. The over complication of Cateks has been why I've never really liked them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BulletProof Posted March 10, 2009 Report Share Posted March 10, 2009 I'd check as to where the power plate is 'rubbing' on the disc. Run a marker under the power plate (both in the center and in the center). Tighten the flatheads and rotate the power plate. I guess the only area where the marker should have rubbed off is in the center, if the outer pads are rubbing, you may have a problem. When setting the OS2 up: -Clean with non oily/waxy product the disc and below the power plate. -Torque down the flat head screws with a wrench with proper 4mm hex tip bit, probably good to apply dry thread lube (apply only on screw). An option to increase the screw force on the power plate is to replace the flatheads with a wide washer and socket head cap screw (if it fits) or a button head cap screw, make sure to measure the proper length so as to have enough engagement without bottoming out on the board. Wondering what's my profession? ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ur13 Posted March 10, 2009 Report Share Posted March 10, 2009 I'd check as to where the power plate is 'rubbing' on the disc.Run a marker under the power plate (both in the center and in the center). Tighten the flatheads and rotate the power plate. I guess the only area where the marker should have rubbed off is in the center, if the outer pads are rubbing, you may have a problem. When setting the OS2 up: -Clean with non oily/waxy product the disc and below the power plate. -Torque down the flat head screws with a wrench with proper 4mm hex tip bit, probably good to apply dry thread lube (apply only on screw). An option to increase the screw force on the power plate is to replace the flatheads with a wide washer and socket head cap screw (if it fits) or a button head cap screw, make sure to measure the proper length so as to have enough engagement without bottoming out on the board. Wondering what's my profession? ;) The washer is a good idea. What is the threading of those little screws for the powerplate? Do you know off hand? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BulletProof Posted March 10, 2009 Report Share Posted March 10, 2009 I own OS1's so I can't be sure. If it's a 4mm hex, it should be M6 thread (same as the disc-board screws.) [edit] I think there may be an issue to be resolved by jeff, flatheads are very powerful in simple countersunk holes, but lack contact area when used in a 'countersunk' groove. You end up with only 2 lines of contact between the screw head and groove. This is one of the rare times I've seen this done. I'd suggest changing the design from using flatheads to using button head cap screws. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ur13 Posted March 10, 2009 Report Share Posted March 10, 2009 I own OS1's so I can't be sure.If it's a 4mm hex, it should be M6 thread (same as the disc-board screws.) [edit] I think there may be an issue to be resolved by jeff, flatheads are very powerful in simple countersunk holes, but lack contact area when used in a 'countersunk' groove. You end up with only 2 lines of contact between the screw head and groove. This is one of the rare times I've seen this done. I'd suggest changing the design from using flatheads to using button head cap screws. M6 was what I was thinking. You raise a good point about the contact points. However with the wide enough washers (say .5" to .25" stacked) you'd have enough contact to work. The power plate is not a sideloaded weight bearing part. Therefore the stepdown washer technique should be just fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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