Do I need another board or better technique ?

[Surf Quebec]

I only have one board , a Sims Burner 162, with stiff boots, Track 700.

I found that the conditions are less and less good for carving, in Quebec wheather is changing all the times so are the snow conditions.

Last night I had an awful time because there were snow accumulations everywhere on the slopes and small moguls.

Are you able to carve nice linked half circles in all snow conditions with a race board or are you using different boards depending of the snow (and not carving nice linked half circles) conditions or are you staying at home until there is hero snow ?

Maybe I'll try a soft setup next time there are powder snow or mixed conditions (iced, granular, moguls... )

Maybe I need better technique ...

Maybe I'm just having a bad day because I did not enjoy my carving time last night ...

[Chris Houghton]

Certainly a more versatile board (Prior 4x4) would be better in these less than ideal conditions. But, chances are, everyone finds some conditions difficult, whether it's moguls, slush, ice or even deep powder, developing the skills to cope with these conditions is a personal challenge. The equipment will help, but it will not solve the problem for you.

[queequeg]

I'm certainly not the best snowboarder in the world by any means, but I ride a stiff "squaretail" freecarve board in everything but powder. Some conditions are better than others. When I am having a tough day, and a hard time with the snow, I slow down, and try to figure out what works in that snow.

It seems to me, that good equipment will help you amplify the strengths of your technique, but will not counteract the flaws in your technique.

It sounds cheezy but, whenever you run into snow conditions that challenge your technique, you have a new opportunity to learn, and become even better.

You can definitely carve in bumpy terrain, but it depends upon the size of the bumps and the hardness of the snow. Obviously, you cannot carve through a full-on mogul field, but if the surface is simply undulating, as with chopped up snow - you can carve right through that stuff. It's not quite as fun as going through smooth terrain, but you can do it. The bigger the bumps and the higher the speed, the harder it is, and the greater demand it places on your technique.

Somebody else here can probably provide a much more elegant description, and this may not be the best way of managing rough terrain --but here is what I do:

Keep your body mass very centered (laterally and fore/aft) and provide adequate suspension for your upper body, such that you are able to maintain constant pressure on your edges by flexing and extending your legs, while keeping your core body-mass relatively still. As long as your chest, head and arms are not bouncing around, their inertial force will keep you on track as your legs maintain pressure on the edges via flexion/extension. If you permit the topography of the surface to push your upper-body mass around, you are not going to be able to maintain sufficient edge pressure and will start chattering out and bouncing around. Riding on undulating terrain is a workout.

Think of a car driving down a bumpy road - the body of the car (your head/torso) remains at a fixed elevation, while the wheels (your edges) travel up and down to maintain contact with the road. Your ankles, knees and hips are the cars suspension.

Find a "neutral" body position halfway between fully extended and fully crouched--low enough to the board that you can extend and contract your legs an equal distance--and maintain it as best as you can throughout your turns. I have found that light, low-pressure cross-under transitions work MUCH better in these kinds of conditions, and that it is much easier to absorb the terrain on my toe-sides if I press out with my toes a bit more than normal (yay bts!!!). It also seems to me that you have to be a little less dynamic in bumpy terrain. If I try to push my board around really agressively like I do on smooth surfaces, I get into trouble because I will lose my ability to extend or flex to maintain contact (think of the cars suspension bottoming out, or overextending)--you have to ride (a bit more) passively to maintain your available range of flexion and extension.

I find that I can still get really low on chop when I ride this way, but that I get tired fast and once I get tired, everything goes to **** and I start bounding all over the place and getting seriously knocked around. Obvuiously the effectiveness of this technique is somewhat dependent upon the size and frequency of the bumps. To some extent, you can compensate for that by adjusting your speed, but certainly, some days are better than others.

I think it DOES help to have a slightly longer (and stiffer) board for these kinds of conditions, but a longer board will not do you any good if you are not actively absorbing the terrain topography by suspending your upper body.

Otherwise, I don't detune my edges near the nose - Every little bit of cutting power helps ... I don't know if the result of that is purely psychological or if it really helps me slice through the chop. Either way, it seems to have an effect on my ability to ride in chop.

Hopefully that helps?

[Derf]

Same here, similar setup:

Nitro GTX 166 (moderately stiff freecarve)

Catek OS1 (stiff bindings)

Burton Furnace (stiff boots)

Conditions are very suboptimal here. I went snowboarding only one time this year, my skier friends found the conditions good, but not me. I had a very hard time. A stiff setup doesn't help in bad conditions like this. The equipment may not help, but it's always technique IMHO. A good rider can ride anything. I don't know know if equipment can slow down progress though.

I don't remember: do you have a BTS on your boots?

[BadBrad]

You always need another board. :D

I do like a softer setup in those cruddy conditions. Instead of a different board, though, you can loosen your boot buckles and/or put your boots in walk mode, which works for me.

[Surf Quebec]

Derf,

I do have BTS since december but I experienced more heel lift with the BTS than without, need to work on those Tognar pads I've ordered. The BTS helps when the conditions are just less nice than hero snow but on real mixed conditions i'm just not having fun.

I can go down on mix condition slopes by carving and skidding but it's not fun.

I've never seen a rider carved linked half circles on mixed conditions , I can't see how to do that between irregular moguls, ice and powder all mixed together.

Maybe I should go there :

http://www.snopes.com/photos/architecture/indoorski.asp

I'll try to rent a freeride board or if anybody want to exchange boards for a day (if having a Prior 4X4) in the Montreal area i"ll be thankful

Boy do I need a fine carving night !

[RDY_2_Carve]

I think Technique will win out on most any conditions sans blue ice, and even then in the hands of a pro amazing things can happen.

Last week I was having a bit of trouble in softer mashed potato conditions on top of "yesterdays groom", and the more I focused on technique the easier it was to slice through the chop. The same run just minutes before was giving me fits when I was not so focused on my technique and just "getting through it" if you know what I mean. This was on a board which is designed for less than ideal conditions. The equipment will not make you a Hero but will improve your confidence.

I think slowing down and concentrating on good technique will really help you out more than upgrading your setup.

The setup, however, can inspire confidence that will enable you to be more focused on technique. At least this has been the case for me the past few weeks on my new Coiler AM-T. I find myself more focused on keeping my technique in order than what the conditions are, what lies ahead, will my edge hold, etc. But still the bottom line is there is no replacing solid technique for less than ideal conditions.

[Dave*]

As a " dozen board diva/board whore" I have to second what BadBrad said and that is you always need another board..................

However having the finest surgical instrument doesnt make you a surgeon, so technique (lessons) and mileage (lift passes) are probably better money spent than getting another deck ( it just kills me to say that )

If going second board route a Prior ATV ( think 4x4 but fatter and more nose) would be a worthy additon for those bump/crud/powder or even corduroy days,

[Gleb]

This past weekend there was fresh snow all over one of my local mountains and after 2 pm, I put away my GS board and took out an SL because I just wasn't having fun.

On the SL, I tried applying pressure to the nose more to get through alot of the chop and it worked out pretty well, most of the time. Although one little mistake and you're down for the count.

Get an SL board for those crappy days. In my opinion, they're easier to ride on ice and during the 2nd half of the day when conditions are usually questionable.

[b0ardski]

A rider with well developed technique can ride most any board in any conditions; that doesn't mean it's fun.

I always take 2 boards to the hill, a carver & an all mt. When theres a lot snow and I know the groomers'll be choppy I take a long & short all mt.

Choice matters to the bottom line of the fun factor, which will keep you on the hill longer, which will improve your technique through more practice in varied conditions.

So, another board = better technique = more fun.

Don't buy a second board thats too similar to the one you already ride:biggthump

[Skwalleur]

Don't buy a second board thats too similar to the one you already ride:biggthump

The old Skwal switcharoo concept... Not good for alpine, maybe good for skwal and vice versa...

[Surf Quebec]

I've just been to the Coiler and Prior sites to check the all mountain boards

It will be though to buy a second board this year as my wife has already planned how to spend my march bonus ...well I do not mind spending a week on the beach either

[Bobby Buggs]

There are times when you just dont want to be carving. If there is a bunch of snow and bumps why would you try to lay down turns in that:confused:

When the conditions are not "carving conditions" just free ride and have fun, forget about all the tech stuff, it may not be the day to be "working" on your carving.

I mean Every time I go to an event with Ronnie aka the Carvefather it invariably snows one or more of the days.He would laugh and say look at all these people on carving boards crying because there is snow:confused: Not every day is gonna be groomed cord, you need to be versitile no matter what board your on. Ride the style the conditions offer, for that day work on that style.

[newcarver]

Not to mention, that you can also carve your freeride board in softboots. It has been nothing but powder days around here all winter, but I have been carving my in my softboots when I get down at the wide open groomed area before the lift. Otherwise it's just been surfin the pow.

[NateW]

A single all-mountain alpine board is enough for me. But I've been riding a Donek FC 180 (ARoss version) for the last few weeks and the only issue is that I'm afraid to ride backward on anything but groomed snow.

I only do the linked-half-circles thing when conditions are favorable, and the most important condition (IMO) is a steep groomed slope at least three cat-tracks wide. Otherwise I mostly do linked-quarter-circles. If there is a lot of fresh snow or big/deep bumps, I switch to skidded turns. Moguls require an entirely different technique from carving, but I'm satisfied on most any board as long as it's stiff enough.

Anyway, there's my two cents.