Ear dragger Posted February 1, 2008 Report Share Posted February 1, 2008 do i need to buy a special set of brushes or can i find them at a store like home depot, bronze brush, nylon brush? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil sunday Posted February 1, 2008 Report Share Posted February 1, 2008 visit a quality ski shop and they set you up. i would start w/ a brass and nylon mix and a medium nylon brush. SWIX makes good ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ear dragger Posted February 1, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2008 thank you for the info Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randy T. Posted February 1, 2008 Report Share Posted February 1, 2008 visit a quality ski shop and they set you up. i would start w/ a brass and nylon mix and a medium nylon brush.SWIX makes good ones. Neil, Can you explain the difference between the two brushes? Also, for non racing prep just normal waxing do I need two different brushes? I only use the Hertel all temp wax and have been buffing with a scotch brite pad but would like to switch to a quality brush. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingbat Posted February 1, 2008 Report Share Posted February 1, 2008 I use a cheap brass grill brush for removing wax from the structure and it works fine. The important thing is that if the bristles are angled, don't rub the ends into the base. Only brush one direction at a time. If you change directions it makes the ends of the bristles dig into the base. Make sure it's brass and a fine bristle. A proper brass brush made for ski/snowboard bases would most likely do the job faster though. I use a Swix nylon snowboard brush for finishing. YMMV Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil sunday Posted February 3, 2008 Report Share Posted February 3, 2008 i'll try to explain in a few words... if i only had one brush, it would be the brass and nylon combination brush. this will clean the base the most, and remove any oxidization from the base prior to waxing. once you apply wax, you can still use the brass/nylon combi brush, just use it lightly - then proceed with scotch brite or fibertex. if you were to just use the nylon, you would not remove any hardened base material during prep before waxing. i use the nylon brushes when removing softer waxes or flourocarbon overlays before a race run. i hope this helps- i'd use a simple brass/nylon combi brush if i had to chose just one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randy T. Posted February 3, 2008 Report Share Posted February 3, 2008 Thanks Neil! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobdea Posted February 3, 2008 Report Share Posted February 3, 2008 another point for brass here, as long as you're careful brass work for just about all the brushing you need. I use a brass and horse hair brush pretty much the same as this one http://cgi.ebay.com/Brass-Horse-Hair-Brush-Ski-Snowboard-Wax-tuning-1414_W0QQitemZ260182803009QQihZ016QQcategoryZ62170QQtrksidZp1638.m118.l1247QQcmdZViewItem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hans Posted February 3, 2008 Report Share Posted February 3, 2008 I use these brushes from Red Creek on my electric drill. Was advised to me by the best ski and (race) snowboardprep. overhere. I am ready in no time and the result is perfect. It will cost you some but if you use them you don't want anything else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil sunday Posted February 3, 2008 Report Share Posted February 3, 2008 good exchange of info all around on this thread! an important one indeed! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hans Posted February 3, 2008 Report Share Posted February 3, 2008 Thanks for the tip, William. I was told to use them only for a few seconds. I am mostly done in 30 seconds total with two brushes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hans Posted February 4, 2008 Report Share Posted February 4, 2008 Thanks William, really appreciate these tips since my boards are precious to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maddman Posted February 6, 2008 Report Share Posted February 6, 2008 William, How does shining make my base no longer sintered? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tex1230 Posted February 6, 2008 Report Share Posted February 6, 2008 it doesn't make it "not sintered" but if you heat a sintered base too much the pores in the base close up losing all of the advantages of a sintered base. No Pores for wax = Slow board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingbat Posted February 6, 2008 Report Share Posted February 6, 2008 Would a base grind fix it then? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wavechaser Posted February 11, 2008 Report Share Posted February 11, 2008 You bet, Hans- Be careful, it only takes a fraction of a second to bond (or as we say, to "shine") a section of your base out of it's sintered state, permanently. IF you're going to use a drill, keep the speed as low as possible, and keep it moving up and down the board at all times. Don't worry about direction of travel, as the rotation of the bit is faster than your movement up and down the board anyway, and direction of travel in tuning is an issue of considerable....'discussion'. J - I have noticed at USSA races that most people using a roto will lightly spray the base with some water first...to help protect against the heat buildup...any opinion on this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Gilmour Posted February 21, 2008 Report Share Posted February 21, 2008 SVST.com has nice ones -long rotobrushes...great for snowboards. WB yes you are right -water does keep it cool- use a mister.. this as per Thanos Kardaras of Dominator who also helped make several Swix formulations. Light pressure many passes with nylon was key. polish until the base looks less cloudy- almost translucent. I think the water helps with this... perhaps..not unlike a shoe shine...lol ________ Avandia Death Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maddman Posted March 1, 2008 Report Share Posted March 1, 2008 be careful with drill-speeds on brushes- you can quickly destroy the sintered nature of your base by brushing at even moderate drill speeds, which can build up far more heat than typical hot-waxing, and permanently bond your sintered PE into , essentially, extruded-grade polyethylene, which is SLOW. I recommend hand-brushing. What's the frequency, William? Did you read my question? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
www.oldsnowboards.com Posted August 23, 2009 Report Share Posted August 23, 2009 Time to tune? Good info raised from the dead. SVST Brushes Link Good videos on tuning. Personal note: To those that are not used to tuning their own boards, do not be overwhelmed by the expert tuning they demonstrate. The number of steps can be GREATLY reduced and still have excellent results for the free rider. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil sunday Posted August 24, 2009 Report Share Posted August 24, 2009 Madman, i will try to give you my 2 cents of input on "shining" your base... your sintered base is a series of peaks and valleys which, when waxed helped channel water out from under your base, therby reducing suction from the melting snow, which is happening as you glide over it. when you "shine" your base by using a rotobrush system, you essentially "close" some of these peaks and valleys to a certain extent. this now turns your once "fast, sintered base" into a flat, non-channeled suction grubbing slab of ptex. i belive this is what william was trying to convey by making his statement. it makes sense to me... this is why i use hand brushes when i can, unless i have 15 kids at the start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ursle Posted August 24, 2009 Report Share Posted August 24, 2009 William-Please respond to my post. I have one horse that just won't respond to the name I've given him (scoobiedo)only to his real name (rebel) might I suggest you try V * L * A * D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ursle Posted August 24, 2009 Report Share Posted August 24, 2009 Now I'm really confused. Are your horse's hooves sintered or extruded? well they came extruded but I sintered them and he does come to his real name Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ursle Posted August 25, 2009 Report Share Posted August 25, 2009 I asked a pro coach and he left me an answer today that a sintered base is made of tiny pieces of polyethylene crumbs and dust pressed hard together, and when it is is heated too much it becomes melted together just like old time extruded polyethylene bases. Ok -Ok,Ok I'll bite Is that fairy dust ? Now when my horse extrudes his dust he then steps in it and sinters it to the base of his quad-skis, so we seem to be on the same page here Ya know, if you were ever to change your forum name... might I suggest........madglad, it sort of rolls off the tounge :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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