Tuning Question, wax on, wax off.

[Guest g1ngerrevolution]

This is my first year of self board maintenence.

My question is this;

As the weather warms up I'm thinking of switching to a warmer wax rather than the "normal" I've been using.

Should I try & remove the wax from the base using a base cleaner of some description, or should I just wax over the top of it?

How often should I be cleaning the base -- if at all?

[Maciek]

You should wax on top of it. If you want to remove old wax then wax first layer of "warm" wax, scrape it and repeat the process.

Don't use base cleaner if you do not have any experience. Otherwise your board may need repair. Base cleaner dries out base permanently and that'a a damage. Unless you have total dirt from chemicals on the base that is not removable by waxing, do not experiment with base cleaner. Use safer method.

To be honest with you, I do not have that much patience to put multiple layers of wax, but this is the best way of waxing. However, I do mix waxes for different temperatures if I put that single layer.

From my experience, Toko low fluoro wax for warmer days works just fine in lower temperatures than those marked on the box. It makes board still fast and I prefer waxing with "warm" Toko wax even for colder days. For extremely cold days I change the wax.

You have to remember that waxing is a sort of art. Not only temperature is important, but also humidity and type of snow you will be riding on. There is several types of snow and conditions of snow (fresh, worn e.t.c.)

The best bet is to try how a particular wax works in the area you usually ride.

[Mike T]

You'll probably get lots of answers, some from people who race, others from purely recreational riders.

I'm a purely recreational rider, and have been waxing my own boards for about 5 years. I've never tried any of the really expensive waxes, but I have tried a lot of differnt brands from total el cheapo wax up to the basic Toko and Swix. I have found that temperature specific wax makes enough of a difference to warrant its use even for purely recreational riding. I find the SVST Ultra Wax a good value wax that performs well.

For the most part I just wax over the previous job. If I start to see any wax buildup, I do a "hot scrape" to clean the base - wax and then scrape before it hardens. The buildup appears (for me anyway) under the bindings first. See other threads for a dicsusion of the merits of hot-scraping versus citrus cleaners... I've personally had better luck with hot scraping in terms of not damaging the base.

One thing I always do is loosen or remove the bindings, this prevents as much from caking on under the inserts.

If I were racing I'd probably do it all completely differently. My goal is simply to keep my boards turning and gliding well, but not spend too much time or money, and what I'm doing works well to this end.

[Guest dragonfly jones]

Use a soft wax - to strip off winter hard wax

get a belt grind to strip of the top layer. then wax soft again let it sit for hours 2-4 scrape deep and wipe with a little base cleaner base grind it with a wet machine - ask the shop you go to - wax with a hard wax to protect the base, scrape brush to open the structure, wax again with a hydro swix or toko, scrape and brush, lay down a universal, scrape and brush and lay down your wax.

Please note that all of this work with HOLMENKOL or better cheap wax is for fools, would you put wd 40 in your car?

Rough guide here but it works like Magnum solving a case.

Nuff Said

DFJ

[Guest g1ngerrevolution]

Originally posted by Kent

Sounds like a trick question.....

It depends upon the condition of the board and also the the current conditions.

Basically, I don't know what you mean by "warmer". Perhaps an example..... Snow Temp? Air Temp? Humidity? These all play a factor in chosing your potion....

But....98% of the time I will use a citris base cleaner after the edge work is compete.

I've gone from -20f air temp, zero humidity, rock hard ice (2 weeks ago) to above freezing, quite humid, slushy / man made now.

The joys of an East Coast Spring.

Boards are in reaasonably good condition, 2 or 3 hot waxes with the same wax.

I'm erring towards a hot scraping.

[D-Sub]

damn, base cleaner can ruin boards?

[DrCR]

Originally posted by Maciek

You should wax on top of it. If you want to remove old wax then wax first layer of "warm" wax, scrape it and repeat the process.

Don't use base cleaner if you do not have any experience. Otherwise your board may need repair. Base cleaner dries out base permanently and that'a a damage. Unless you have total dirt from chemicals on the base that is not removable by waxing, do not experiment with base cleaner. Use safer method.

To be honest with you, I do not have that much patience to put multiple layers of wax, but this is the best way of waxing. However, I do mix waxes for different temperatures if I put that single layer.

From my experience, Toko low fluoro wax for warmer days works just fine in lower temperatures than those marked on the box. It makes board still fast and I prefer waxing with "warm" Toko wax even for colder days. For extremely cold days I change the wax.

You have to remember that waxing is a sort of art. Not only temperature is important, but also humidity and type of snow you will be riding on. There is several types of snow and conditions of snow (fresh, worn e.t.c.)

The best bet is to try how a particular wax works in the area you usually ride.

I'm thinking about using Swix LF this season instead of generic wax. Unfortunately, I'll be limited to WV this year, so the temp will range from the upper 20s to close to 40. Should I go for LF10 (34-50F) with the possibility that the temps may actually be in the 20s, or go for LF8 (25-34F) with the possibility that the temps will be above 34? Which one would handle the nonspec. temps in the respective cases?

Also, in general, does a broad range wax like Swix F4 favor colder or warmer temps?

Thanks,

DrCR

________

FYI Using Swix Base Prep for my first layer.

[bobdea]

its a little harder and will protect your base a little better

but you really have no need for a floro wax because your base will lose any benifit a floro provides after a day of hard riding anyway just use the HC waxes and you will be able to have all the temps you need for the same price as one bar of the swix LF

[bobdea]

http://www.reliableracing.com/wintersportscatalog/detail.cfm?edp=10700532&category=2500

for $50 you get more wax than you will be able to use in the next couple seasons

and it has just about all ranges covered

[DrCR]

Yeah, I'll be getting twice the wax for the same price if I go for CH instead of LF. Thanks for the advice. I'll go with the CH, though I'll be buying from Artech simply because that's where I'll be buying a bunch of other stuff (and it's a little cheaper too). Do I still need to get the Swix Base Prep wax if I go for CH?

Could I still use an fluoro overlay with CH if I get challenged to a race or something? (racewax)

On the side, would the Dinosaur Wax Iron be OK or should I spend the extra for the Slik Wax Iron? (tognar link)

[D-Sub]

this thread again, huh?

amazing how complex this can be. Ive always just done a single layer, no hot scrape, nothin...seems plenty fast and lasts 2 days usually.

hey dragonfly..if you read this...can you maybe slow down a bit and repeat your post up there in a non tweaker language?:)

[DrCR]

Originally posted by DrCR

Could I still use an fluoro overlay with CH if I get challenged to a race or something? (racewax)

To answer my own question...

Artech, CH8:

"A great base prep wax and travel wax. Works best with Cera F as an overlay wax. 34F to 25F degrees"

Hum, so maybe I don't need to buy base prep then, thanks. Still awaiting a comment concerning the irons...

[Fleaman]

I was just wondering what base cleaner can do to your base. I have used it extensively in the past (every wax job). I do however apply new wax immediately. I have not noticed any harm done to the base.

Anyone??

I also used Toko shop wax. 2 temperature colours and works great for recreational riding. I think If I was racing or competing I would use the more expensive waxes. But for now, I think keeping the base clean and reasonable waxed keeps my board in top shape.

I am experimenting this season with a local wax company named Slide. Does anyone have any experience with this wax?

[Gecko]

I've read on waxing/tuning says that base cleaner dries out the base. Both of the tuning manuals that I have (One Ball Jay & World Class Tuning) recomend against using it. As a matter of fact they both say the only time you should clean using base cleaner is if you are doing repairs to the base (to aid adhesion) and that you should immediatly apply a coat of wax afterwards to restore the base. All other base cleaning should be done via the hotwax and scrap method

[D-Sub]

but then...some people say DONT iron!

whats a man to do?!?!

:)

[DrCR]

Originally posted by D-Sub

but then...some people say DONT iron!

Who says that? Links?

[Chris Houghton]

Don't iron your shirts with the wax iron after you've done your board - that's what they mean when they say "don't iron". And don't let your Mom know you've used the iron to wax boards, either.